waynekarnes

no idea what happened to my comments ... with rust bullet, clean area with metal brush, get all the loose crap out of the way, scrub it good. this will open up the rust holes ( make em larger ), gets rid of the too thin material . put something under the car to catch the drips. use a good face mask, air filter, meant for noxious fumes. paint a nice layer of rust bullet down. take some strips of fiberglass mat ( available at local hardware store ), cut em before hand, trial fit em, dry ( no rust bullet ). wear gloves !!! anyway, take the strips of fiberglass mat, lay em ontop the rust bullet, take the end of a paint brush and dab the mat into place. paint more rust bullet ontop the mat, dab again. another layer of mat, more rust bullet and more dabbing. i just did this of several small holes on the passenger side of my z ( holes were pin holes before the metal brush, ended up with about 6 holes the diameter of a #2 pencil of smaller ). the rust bullet and the mat, worked great. you also want to get under the z and clean up, maybe paint some rust bullet over the area underneath as well. if you need, use some mat there as well. the metal brush and a vacuum cleaner to suck up the mess, is all the prep you need do for rust bullet. http://www.stoprust.net/rust_bullet_faq.htm if those holes are fred and barney size, for safety reasons, you may need to have new sheet metal welded in ... if these cars had perimeter frames, like the 57 chevys do, you could get away with glassing and patching. but, as the z is unibody, you need the strength of a solid floor. again, if just a few small holes, patch em. if large holes that your feet fit through, suggest that you buy the replacement panels. strip all the tar, ect. off ... take z to local welding shop, ask there about having them to remove old and weld in the new. welding shops are usually cheaper than a body shop. once welded in, coat the new stuff with rust bullet or POR 15. inside and outside ... also if the floors are rusted, check under the battery and your frame rails ...

http://www.stoprust.net/rust_bullet_guidelines.htm

great !!! every one ... tell your friends to drop a line and help us save our hobby ! get your parents, and any one that can write to send a message to their legislator.

AB 2683/ calif. they are repealing your smog exemption those of us in california, remember my mentioning about CARB lobbying the state senate, to save their jobs ? well, start the writing campaign again, the CARB a holes have bought another legal beagle. they want to sneak in another repeal of the exemption of smog tests at registration. Issue: Emissions/ Inspections Bill: AB 2683 Status: Amended Location: In Committee Description: Amends current regulations to repeal current rolling emissions exemptions standards and would instead exempt any vehicle manufactured prior to the 1976 model year Author: Assembly member Liber Intro Date: 20-Feb-04 Bill Type: Two year bill from 2004 Bill AB 2683, would repeal the exemption. we had better get busy on this or you can figure on parking your Z. write your assembly member now and write to LIBER as well. she has been bought by the managers at CARB, they know that most pre 1976 cars are rarely driven and getting them smogged will have nil affect on the smog problem. it is pork barrel politics, upper level managers at CARB, just want to keep their state welfare checks coming in. find and write your legislator enter zipe code XXXXX-XXXX in that manner. http://www.congressweb.com/cweb4/index.cfm?orgcode=SEMA wayne __________________ it's getting better, so much better, all the time ! can't get much worse ...

FREE !!!! in San Jose California tires and wheels. w/ 280z hubcaps tires have apprx 3000 miles on em. per prev owner, are about 5 yrs old. were on my 72 z, when i bought it. z was parked in garage, or covered. no sun on tires. no cracks. only look a few months old. local tire dealer says, are fine to use. stock steel 280 z wheels are straight and true. hubcaps are in decent daily driver condition. FREE !!! located in san jose, california. frisco is 80 miles north, santa cruz beach and boardwalk are 24 miles south. disneyland is roughly 10 hours south of here. probably too costly to ship ... but if you want, i can get a price. wayne 408 363 0439 can send pics.

thanks, i will check pep boys. do you know, are these the lug nuts i need for the Konigs ? i felt that the guy at the tire store was guessing.

hello, bought a set of Konig 14X7 from Gabe, great deal, great price, great guy. any one know where to get the correct lug nuts, for em, on a 240z ? the stock chrome 280z lug nuts, seem to have the correct ramp, but don't set deep enough into the wheel to use em. there is a shoulder on the wheel, where the lugs go on. tire shop says, no can't use the flat stock 280zx style lug nuts with the washer. says i need what are called conecal lug nuts. any one ??? thanks, wayne

glad to hear that you got it squared away !!! bet it feels pretty good !!!

i knew there was a message regarding lack of bandwidth, and shutting down the search engine. there was a hunt on for a new provider ... i must have missed the message as to the date of the change over thanks, wayne

appears the web site is gone ... is it closed for cleaning ? any one know / or perhaps a purist has stolen it ...

Marty, i was hoping it was that simple. i had the drum off, my son pressed the brake pedal, released the pedal. shoes move in and out, just like they are supposed to. the shoes don't hang out there, off the adjuster, rather, the adjuster is ran most of the way out, forcing the shoes against the drum. right now the z is registered as, non operational. gotta wait another couple weeks, so i can register the z, if i pay too soon, will be paying for last year's fees, and this years in march. it's been raining, haven't had a chance to look at it anymore than i already have. once i get it registered and the rain slows, to where we have a few dry days in a row; it has been suggested that i drive the z, don't use the parking brake, see if it still does it ... if cylinder is built wrong, may be hyper extending and causing the adjuster to move. if no problems, then it's some where in the parking brake system. the cable is free and breezy. adjustment seems to be correct. the wheel cylinder is new, the shoes , the drum, the springs, everything with the exception of the backing plate is new. everything is lubed, the correct lube, in the correct places. keep the ideas and possible solutions coming, i'm at a loss here, for reasons, wayne

the automatic brake adjustment is done when the parking brake is applied. if issue is the adjuster, then by pulling the wheel, removing the plug, one may back off the adjuster, thus the shoes move away from the drum. if one, loosens the bleeder screw and it releases the shoes, it is not the self adjuster, as the hydraulic system, acts independent of the mechanical system used by the self adjuster. the original hard brake lines only go in to the RWC one way. if you have the original hard tubes ( lines ) and it connects to the RWC with out butchering or twist it from its original shape, you can not have the RWC upside down or backwards. the master cylinder operates the 2 rear wheel cylinders. another portion of the master operates the front calipers. under the master on the frame rail is a distribution block. master to block, from there, lines to rear and front. the same part of the master operates both rear wheel cylinders ( RWC ). if issue is in the master, both RWCs will be locked up. not, just one. there is a residual pressure valve, located in front of the gas tank. remove the wheel, follow the brake line, you'll see it, under the car, on the floor pan, behind those little storage bins. as stated earlier, it maintains pressure on the RWC, sort of a check valve, so that the shoes are held close to the drum and don't have to travel as far to engage. kinda balances em out to the discs on the front ( some people use em as proportioning valves, as they come in different ratings ). if trouble only at one wheel, and cracking the bleeder sets the shoes free, then ... residual valve, or RWC. the residual valves are usually good for around a million miles. that said, they are usually pretty resilient, ignoring rust and dirt. however, there may be a big chunk of crap in there. jamming that valve. i'd bleed the brakes, run about a quart of brake fluid through the system, all 4 wheels, see if you clean any crud out. i'd do that before changing any parts. then check out your springs, any of em backwards, weak, binding. did you use the high temp grease, where the RWC meets the backing plate, the RWC needs to slide ? the contact points for the shoes at the backing plate also need to be greased. could be, that it's not pressure holding em out, rather weak springs, something jammed that's not allowing the shoes to push the fluid back to the master. just my 38 cents. i'm having issues with my mechanical adjuster, it keeps moving the shoes towards the drum, until they seize the drum. only having issues on pass side. haven't quite figure that out ... yet wayne

yeah, that's the stuff ! spent a couple hours messing with it earlier today. i replaced everything in there, about 4 miles ago. i did all the work, myself. as i say, the driver's side works fine. only having issues with the passenger side. the cable appears to be working fine, i had my son pull and release the parking brake, releases completely. i tried the cable with it disconnected. it moves freely. i'm sure, that once the shoes are against the drum, properly adjusted, that that acuator is supposed to slip past that adjustment wheel. for some reason, it's not doing that, instead, it just keeps tightening. wayne

at first i thought that might be an issue, that the RWC wasn't supposed to move, and thus, that was the problem. '' i checked the manual, it specifies, when replacing the RWC, be sure to grease the area where the RWC mounts to the backing plate, and grease the RWC, so that it is free to slide. '' completely countered my thoughts, of trying to hammer the wedges in tighter, to hold the RWC in place. i did move the RWC, forward and backwards, didn't seem to make any difference in the way the actuator approached the wheel. the only thing i can see makes a difference, is how much the acuator is allowed to returned to rest. the closer it is to the backing plate, under the RWC, the more likely it is to contact the wheel. if the acuator is slightly activated, moved away from the backing plate, it skips 2 teeth on the wheel, only partially contacts, the wheel. when this happens, it only turns one notch, instead of 3. thing is, for this to happen, to get that clearance, the parking brake has to be partially on, and the shoes engaged into the drum, so that doesn't seem to be the solution. thanks for your thoughts, suggestions, keep em coming, wayne

well, no rain today checked out the adjuster again ... everything looks fine in there. the parking brake cable isn't too tight. specs say, that from the center of the hole where the pin goes through the acuator ( arm ) and the backing plate, should be .496 inches, close enough to a half an inch, and that's where it's at. had my son pull and release the parking brake, works fine, doesn't stick, cable operated fine. the wheel cylinder slides, as it is supposed to. the acuator moves, where it is supposed to. the springs hold the shoes in place, other thanb that, they don't seem to have affect on the parking brake, and the acuator as it keeps spinning that adjustment wheel, forcing the shoes into the drum. tightening the cable a bit, moves the acuator away from the serrated adjustment wheel, lets it slip by the adjustment wheel. but, now, the factory specified adjustment is off, plus , now the shoes are dragging, so that's not the fix. javascript:smilie(':disappoin') very confusing .. others have messaged me, say they have the same issue ... there has to be an easy fix. i know that i can just bend the arm and be done with it, manually adjust the brakes ... but this thing is supposed to work ... wayne

i'm also thinking he is on to something. that acuator ( arm ) has to be able to slip, and if the cable is too tight, or that acuator is bent, it won't slip by the adjustment wheel. so, when the emergency brake is pulled, as the acuator never disengages from the tooth on the wheel, each time the brake is pulled, the wheel spins and the shoes lock against the drum. if it's not raining, i will take a look at it with the drum off the car. i have never reconnected the cable up, with the drum off, be interesting to see what's going on in there. wayne

Ed, thanks. you are right, the lever ( finger, arm, bar, ect. ) pushes the wheel, it turns, the nut ( if you will ) is held by the brake shoe. as a the wheel turns, it unscrews the bolt, forcing the nut away from the wheel cylinder, moving the shoes towards the drum. you think that the cable may be too tight ? guess i can loosen it up, near the axle. what causes the adjuster to stop taking out the slack ? somehow, there has to be a way of gauging the distance. a stop of some sorts. i can't figure out, how it stops. you think maybe it engages and slips past the teeth on that wheel, when the brakes are adjusted to optimum, and now, it's always engaging the adjuster and not slipping past it ?? wonder if the arm is bent or something ??? how the heck does that part work ?? thanks, wayne

yeah the teeth are correct, otherwise the adjuster wouldn't be able to move the wheel. i greased where grease was needed, used high temp disc brake bearing grease. hmmm maybe should have used low temp, low tech brake drum grease ... gotta be an easy fix, i'm just not seeing it ... out of town next weekend. too late and too dark after work for you to come all that ways. besides, not like i need it to get back and forth to work. work on it when it's comfortable. might hit you up to come down this way in a couple weeks, if i haven't gotten it by then. thanks, wayne

Carl, thanks for the offer of your hand in this. you know, i put both sides together the same way, one side works the way it's supposed to, the other doesn't. if it doesn't rain tomorrow, i'm gonna take another crack at it. right now, it's up on a jack stand, sitting in the driveway. the drum is in the garage, got wheel back on, just for show. i find that my frustration level elevates when i can't see what i'm doing, so i won't deal with it tonight, especially with the wind and the cold night air. wayne

this question has come up before, i thought i had it figured out. i put this on the list as well. all new components, cylinder, springs, shoes, ect. i did all the work myself. the drum is aluminum and new. the right rear shoes are jamming against the drum, locked tight, by the self adjuster ( when the parking brake is used, adjusts the brakes ). i was able to turn the drum, ( put a large breaker to the lug nuts, force the wheel to turn, to access the adjuster ). the drum is off, everything looks fine. the driver's side is fine, works as it should. these adjusters worked from the factory, and should work now. i need to know how to fix this, so it doesn't happen again. any thoughts ??? thanks, wayne

believe the hoods are all the same, as far as mounting. at hybridz.com, in the public forum area, under body/paint, the manufactuer of the carbon hoods is offering them at 350 and shipping. says original mounts and latch pin are glassed in, so is a simple unbolt and bolt on deal. supposedly with minimal prep, is paint ready. regards, wayne