matria

All sold thanks to Kurbycar32. It was a pleasure to meet you and your dad and hope you feel you got a good deal. Very sad to see her being towed down the road but I think she will get completed this time. I will be sending you PM's as I think of things. Thanks again to everyone for your support and offers of help.

Fuel tank install, driveshaft, bleed brakes, add fluids & exhaust. In addition to what I already listed, when I got the car, I took it completely apart. Every nut, bolt, wire, etc. was removed. Suspension parts cleaned, painted and reassembled with mostly new parts (spindle pins, Moog ball joints, etc.). ST springs, Takiko Blues inserts. Full Poly suspension, front to back. Professional Yellow Cad plating for most items if it came that way, i.e., hose clamps, the wiper arms under the cowling and the metal plates that hold the rubber insulators in the engine bay. New Interstate battery. New Emergency brake cable, new Headlight switch. All bulbs in car replaced, many extras. Fuel tank professionally sealed inside, new sending unit, vent hoses and filler hose. New stereo & speakers (still have original radio). speakers wired up but not installed. New windshield & gasket, new gasket on hatch glass. If anyone is interested in the car, I would like to sell everything I have for the Z at once including all of the extra parts-240 motor and 4 spd trans, SU adjustment tools, spare hoses, gaskets, electrical parts, A/C parts, engine stand and manuals. I have 15-20 pages of parts I have bought.

Added some photos

Hello, I started a 260z project 11 years ago and it is time to let go. I had high hopes and am probably 95% there but the cops are on me to get the car out of my driveway by the end of the month. I don't have a garage (my shop) and no other place to store it. And I don't have the energy to finish it. I am going to part the car out if I cannot find someone wanting to finish it. I have lot's of extra parts also. Located in Contra Costa County, N. California. Complete car including: 260Z block rebuilt, N42 Head, 3 screw SU's with Z-Therapy bodies rebuilt using replated parts; replated hose clamps, rods, springs, etc.; polished valve cover; set of Konig Rewinds Graphite 7x15 with Faulken ZE-512 205/60 15 (no miles); 4 & 5 speed trans; 3.90 rear-end; Y70 flywheel (resurfaced); half-shafts with new U joints; custom Al drive shaft; 3 core Rad.; carpet kit; old school rear louver; 240Z block with head; disk brakes; Air Dam; JDM tail-lights; etc, etc. I don't know what prices yet but negotiable. Most items are still installed on car. There are some really nice parts on the car. If you are interested in anything, please PM me with your phone number and I will be in touch. This has been such a great journey and sorry it is ending this way for now. I will get another one but this time it will run before I purchase it. Thanks everyone, Skip Dawson

Thank you for your replies. I will get another hose.

Hello, I have an early 1974 260Z, original block & water outlet with a 280Z radiator installed. I am using the 280Z lower hose but it hits the shunt and fuel return line. Can I shorten the top to bring it away from the shunt but still clear the alternator? Thanks for your help.

Zed Head & EuroDat, thank you for your suggestions. I will give them a try.

Hello, I am trying to remove the rear extension on a late model (FS5W71B) transmission. I was given this M/T so I don't know much about it. I am working with the FSM, there was no stopper guide pin/e ring to remove, ordering parts. Removed the return spring plug, return spring, plunger and bolts, and am able to separate the rear extension about 1.5", but no farther. What do I do next? Thank you

Hey everyone, It has been a long time since I frequented these forums. It was a daily ritual I loved for several years and then one day my ADD said no more, we are going to focus on something else for awhile. So for a couple of years as I have gone about my business, my 260Z has sat 90% done in the driveway. I am looking for some help. Help to come to my home (no motor installed) and help me finish. Early 260Z, here is what's left: Install engine & transmission. Install Carbs, exhaust, gas tank, LR brake, radiator, driver door window, install less than 10 wires, undo and lift Right side of dash and install fuse box. Align doors. Bleed brakes and clutch. Get engine started. I think that’s about it. I do not have much money to pay but I do have extra parts I will be happy to barter with for services. Including 240z motor w/o carbs, 4 spd trans, black interior window covers, rear window, misc. electrical parts. Extra rubber gaskets, loom tape, replated parts, window visors, lots of small parts. Also have engine stand, 6-8 jack stands. I am hoping to do this in mid October. I live in central Contra Costa and my schedule would be flexible. I have most tools and will rent an engine hoist. Please send me a PM if you can help and some way to get in contact, Thanks, Skip

Hi Beth, You mentioned that you were getting an exhust smell in your car. Have you gone through your car and closed off all leaks? Here is one thread on how to check but there are many others. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34205 Enjoy the ride, Skip

Is this what you need? HO-38 http://www.zzxdatsun.com/cat280z.php

There should be a third metal piece that the mirror "pops" into. Fits into the larger plastic piece. If you need a picture ,I can do that, I also think I have a spare if you need it.

Mike/Clayton 260z, Would you please do a write up on how you did your conversion? The suggestions to do the GM or other swap are great for the 240z but will not work for the early 260z for various reasons. Thanks in advance, Skip Dawson

I had not seen this done this way so I thought I would share what I did. I needed a way to mount 3 switches somewhere but I did not want to put a new hole in my console. My rear defroster did not work so I had that switch space plus the empty spot next to it to use. Looking for a way to make it look as natural as I could I wanted to use something that matched the texture of the console. I had a few extra covers for the rear of the console and saw that it would fit with just a bit of trimming of the console. Next job was to find switches that will fit. I bought the switches from Delcity, www.delcity.com, no reason other then variety and ease of ordering. I needed a SPST On-Off for the driving lights, a SPST Mom-Off for water pump and a SPDT Mom-Off-Mom to control the antenna. Delcity had all 3 that matched. I spaced out the holes, drilled and mounted. It fits well and works for my needs. Hope this might help someone.

On my 260z, the choke cables pass over the valve cover and attach to the carbs. I want to route them simular to the early 240's where they run along the drivers side of the engine. Has anyone done this? If so, how? Did you need to drill a new hole? Also, could someone measure the length of their choke cables for the early 240's. Thank you, Skip Dawson

Nick, i have a couple of extra sets of latches. Send me a PM. Skip Dawson

Carl, No problem to use the photo's. Skip

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Hello, After reading about the passing of Paul Newman, I started thinking about the couple of times I had the opportunity to see him race at Sears Point Raceway, now Infineon Raceway in N. California. I remembered that I had taken some pictures but after almost 30 years, 2 kids, second marriage and 6 moves, who knows where they were. So after searching through box after box of pictures, I found a few and some of the negatives. Those without negatives were scanned and here are the pictures of some great memories. Sears Point Intl. Raceway, during the 70’s and into the early 80’s was a quiet place with nothing around for miles. Bob Bondurant had his driving school there until he moved to S. Calif. In some of the pictures, you can see how close we were able to get to the course and having very few safety barriers. If you know the course, we were at Turn 3-4 where the old Turn 4 was a nasty Right hand downhill. There were no paved roads or parking areas around the course except for the pit area. Very primitive compared to now and not well attended. The pit areas were open and very friendly including Mr. Newman. Some of you that have raced for a while may know the owners of some of the other cars. The date on the back of the pictures says 1981. Sorry about the quality and I hope you enjoy the pictures. Skip Dawson

I hope it is OK for a follow-up question. Can anyone post any pictures of how they mounted their stereo? Specificly mounting in a 260-280. Pictures of how and where you attached to stereo body. Thanks, Skip Dawson

Here are a couple I made.

Thank you for responding. Yes it is the same as the 240z.

I am putting together my gas cap with new rubber flap. Does the flap go under the flange of the fill tube or between the fill tube flange and the metal ring. FSM is not specific and the "How to" book just says to make sure you install it. Early 260Z Thank you for the help, Skip Dawson

I am installing an A/C system from a 76' 280z into my early 260z. Everything has fit very well and I do not see any major issues. In my search through the archives, many have said to leave out the 2 magnetic switches because they are not needed and may leak. No real explanation as to how the system will work differently afterwards and no mention of the vacuum bottle. So my questions are 1- Can anyone tell me about how the system will operate without the 2 switches? and 2- Do I need the vacuum bottle? Thanks for your help. Skip Dawson