gema

Couldn't you just get a piece of flexible plastic tubing and somehow bond it at the end? Of course, this tubing wouldn't be harmed/altered by gasoline...hmm...good question, but I'm sure there's a feasible fix.

That's a huge bummer. I just did a WHOIS lookup for the domain (midwestz.com) to see if I could nab a phone number or contact of the webmaster/mistress to try and get in touch, but it times out. A little shady to me. Anyone live near Wichita?

Autobahn anyone????? Beyond that, up and down Rt. 1 again (just went to Maine...in a VOLVO), down some mountains with no traffic around, through NYC (god I had fun driving there), and in a high-speed pursuit with some of my very lazy county cops.

Wayne (and others who are interested), I'm going to try and save it. The break in the rail was where the floor support rail meets the actual frame, and the rest of the car isn't rusty enough to warrant trashing it. More importantly, I've decided to abstain from bringing any car at all with me to Temple this fall (a painful, yet financially sound decision) as I will be in downtown Philadelphia with a great public transport system. I'll nab a decent-paying job and save up $$$ to come home and work on the Z. That being said, I now have no set due date for the project to end, so I can do it all and do it right. I'm finishing tearing out the interior and doing the body teardown before I leave for school in 3 weeks, but if I dont' accomplish that, no worries...I have 3 years of undergrad left. Then law school. Speaking of which, any of you guys and gals have a friend at a law firm in Philadelphia? I need a job :nervous: and I'd like to grab one towards my career. On the note of frame rails: Thanks for the advice and instruction on how to keep myself from being crunched. The crossmembers (front and rear) seem really sturdy, and I'm going to invest in some concrete blocks. I have a nice MIG welder and a body saw & air cutter (I don't need a plasma cutter, do I?) and lots of determination and time, so I'm sure I can handle this project. Thanks again for the good advice!!!

So I need to jack my Z up, but there's a little problem. I have a nice hole in my floorboard (passenger) and the rail has collapsed with it. The rail by my T/C box appears to be in okay shape, but I can't see through rubber undercoating. I want to get under the car with my heat gun to see what is REALLY there (hoping for no rust on the actual frame rail, just the floor supports), but I'm mortified that it will collapse onto me. The question I pose is, "What viable options do I have for suspending the car stably with a sketchy frame rail?" Also, I'm wondering how you all jack the Z's up when you replace rails and pans, as I'll be doing that. Thanks for the knowledge all.

Not to be negative, but have we checked any jails?

I just returned from a 2700 mile up and down the East Coast, but if you decide to drive it down, I'm in MD and would love to meet for lunch if you so desire. Would be nice to see a piece of history and a fellow member! Also, 800 for a non-op shipping is about as great as you can get. Any excuse one can get to take a few days away from life and spend it with a Z!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2485528407&category=34206 Is this the same one us CZCC members get on the cheap? Nice job!!!

I was so worried about this site that I checked its pulse while on a weeklong vacation with my girlfriend. Ran into a net cafe and checked the domain on more than one occasion. Glad to be back. VERY glad to be back. And a wonderful new look, too. =)

Looking for a 240, 260, or 280z as close to Maryland as possible. No rust on the frame, little to no on the body is preferable. I prefer a manual transmission but can deal with an auto, and I'd like the car to run and drive. I'm not looking for a showstopper, but I don't want junk or a parts car. E-mail me nathan@amoth.net if we can work something out. Thanks.

Just make sure you have enough money to properly prepare, maintain, and preserve the car.

factory service manual, what's that?

Dare I say "rice"? Though I like the smoke bombs a lot more than bleach

Whoa, grammar...clarify, please?

If any of you guys are interested in this car, I might go look at it for you. I live near DC and wouldn't mind checking it out =) I'm looking for something about 15 grand cheaper, unfortunately.

I've heard a lot of great things about those seats. I don't know about fitment, but I hear they're VERY nice.

How about rust on the frame? Body rot? Interior condition? Pictures would be appreciated.

Priceless. My favorite is the one about Queen Elizabeth.

Looking at a replacement today, and I called about one in San Diego. No sense in moping about, moving forward is key. I'm a bit hesistant to get under the car, and I don't think it's worth my time to repair. When the rail cracked, the T/C box also 'snapped' from the body. I think this is one I strip of everything and roll to the junkers. I will take pics though, and you all can be the judge. I'm just glad I'm alive to type this morning =D And that my brother, in his sympathies, checked our local (and i mean LOCAL) paper, and theres a '73 for $500! Maybe it's worth my time to check it out.

Mine broke, and I'm willing to pay for yours. Looking for a 240z shell/parts car with very little, if any, rust, ESPECIALLY on the floorboards or frame. I almost ate it earlier and don't intend to again. I prefer the east coast but if the price is right I can pay for shipping. I would love something I can roll off a trailer, send to the paint shop, and then transplant the guts from mine into. Let me know if there's something we can work out.

Hey guys. A little bit of bad news on the Z progress...rather, a lot of bad news. I came home from work today and unpacked my new toolset, got some Zero Rust out, and plugged in my heat gun and putty knife to see what was under that undercoating. I put the car up (front right wheel) on the jack, slid the jackstand under the frame rail, and began to lower the jack. The car made the usual creaking noises, then CRUNCH. I put the jackstand right through the frame rail and floorboard. It went through an area that looked like a patch panel to the floorpan, though I had no idea it was in reality a coverup to frame damage, along with all the undercoating. I suppose I'm lucky to be alive as I wasn't under the car and my placement of the stand expedited the snapping rail, but I don't feel so lucky anymore...my Z just became an expensive parts car, and now I have to buy a shell to transplant everything into. The passenger framerail is snapped near the footwell and the T/C rod area also appears to have bent/twisted/broken, and the floorpan is obviously ruined. Drivers side I haven't a clue. Should I bother with taking off the goop and seeing if I can fix it, or would I be better off buying a rust-free rolling shell and putting the guts in it? Almost crying, Nate

I'm not a father, but I practice becoming one all the time.... My family took my Dad out to dinner, gave him the day off work (family business), and we just generally took it easy all day. Was a sunny day, too.

You beat me to it. When does the 280 "initiate" the 350 into "garage etiquette?" *Enter cheesy guitar riff*

I've searched both here and HybridZ, and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. I'm about to start stripping my Z of paint chemically, and can't decide which stripper to use. I suppose I'm looking for the "best" one in effectiveness, safety, ease of use, and hopefully one that doesn't destroy chrome. I read the PDF for POR-Strip and it seems like a good choice, but I've used an aerosol Talstrip and it worked well, too. just don't know about the chrome. Enrique and body crew...help?

I am 18, my Z is yellow...and I'm painting it silver to try and look not as 18. Funny how that works...