Zeus

Well I spent the weekend in the Los Angeles area picking up this engine and other stuff. Upon taking off the cam cover, I do not notice any differences between this P90A, my N42 or my E31 as far as valve operation goes. This leads me to believe that this is a non-hydraulic P90A... Does anyone know if there are any differences between a P90 and this mechanical P90A? Also, I am going to be running SU's and headers, would I see any gain using this P90A over my N42? Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Yes I am aware that the P90A is a turbo head and that modifications are needed to get it to work. I was only asking for pictures of the hydraulic setup.

I recently purchased the engine below on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4539470286&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT It comes with the P90A head which I have never looked into because of the work involved to use it on high compression n/a applications. My understanding is that these used 'hydraulic lifters'. After looking at a few pictures of them, I don't see any noticable differences in the valvetrain. Could someone post some pictures of the P90A in detail? I just dont understand where the lifters come into play. Thanks

Mr Camouflage, your photoshopped version is beautiful! I would even consider mailing this to nissan pleading them to design the next z with those body proportions in mind. it is odd how much the front end looks like an s2000 with the small amount of changes made. i have only one thing to add, replace the circular z logo with N I S S A N like the D A T S U N letters were on the 240z's. good job

i got the bolt out using the back end of a slide hammer. worked how carl mentioned above...no step two. i am working on removing the pin now. i got it to move about 2 inches with a slide hammer but its not going anymore. maybe i will try to make the puller next weekend. :rambo: won an engine/tranny on ebay so i have to pick it up next weekend...grr, ill have to put the susp work off again...

you dont have to tell me twice! im gonna head out to the garage and give that darn thing all i got... :devious:

Having that picture really helps. It looks like i should be able to put the strut in the car and place a jack or something similar to press up to get it out. Thanks for the link also.

THANK YOU that helps me out so much. i am going to try to make a jig to hold the assembly to pound it out. who am i kidding? it only sounds that easy

Before everyone jumps and screams at me to use the search, I did. I couldn't find anything on this specific problem. I know that the spindle pin in the rear control arms is a lot of guys worst enemy on these cars so hopefully some of you could help me out. My problem is that I cannot get the bolt in the center of the pin to come out. Is this a stud? bolt? widget? I tried double nutting it only to snap it off about 1/8" above the spindle pin itself. Looking at the fiche, it looks to me like its pressed in from the top. Would I have any luck grinding/drilling the remaining portion of it and then pressing the pin out? On a side thought, can someone explain the correct method of removing the wheel bearings? I have the flange that bolts to the axle off already but am unsure of which direction needs to be pressed to get them out. Thanks

I dont think that i would mind not having the chrome strip IF they could make the amber portion (jdm style).

Got this link from another Z club. Looks very promising Make sure you request the right one. There are side markers and tail lights. http://klearz.com/request/index.php

ericb and ncz, i actually used an air chisel on a cold night to remove the tar paper. i first used the heat gun scraper thing and it just made a huge mess. the cold air makes the tar very brittle and is very clean. it took me about 40 mins to do 2 square feet with the heat gun. with the air chisel, i did the rest of the car in about an hour. now im off to tackle the undercoating which is going to need a litlle more work.. :mad:

bob, i have decided that i am going to replace the floors entirely this summer once the weather shapes up..... i am not going to cut corners on something this important... thanks

sblake01, what is that "guarantee card" you are using as your avatar? sorry to be a little off topic but i do not think anyone will mind...

gnosez, any luck on finding that brace? thanks

haha...it does need to be locked .....and throw away the key

wow, what a thread.... i think that the winter time is getting the best of some of us tomohawk, i think that your idea is a valid one and to be honest i am suprised to have not seen anything like this on the market yet. i do however think that it would encourage people to 'shift' the auto like a manual all the time and lead to increaed wear..... maybe not also, for what reason are you unable to drive a manual tranny car? unless having a physical handicap preventing you from shifting it, i would think it would FAR easier to learn how to shift a manual rather than re-engineer a 30 year old metal stick with a button.

what type of paint did you use on your cam cover? it seems to have a wrinkle, orange peel finish to it like the turbo covers do. looks good though. what is "aircraft stripper"?

so true... make the car fast enought to have fun but slow enough to truly enjoy the z car for what it was made to do.

It would just seem wierd to me replace half of the car and get it all strong while the other half is not. I am sure it is not necessary, it just seems like the "right" thing to do. Again, no regrets! I have talking with beandip about the floor pan replacement on his car. He says that his welder could not get them in with his MIG welder and that he had to go TIG. Does anyone else have experience putting these in with MIG? They seem plenty thick enough to not cause any problems.

Carl, thank you for the info. I am going to order both floor pans and frame rails from zedd findings. I do not want to look back on this car and have thoughts of "I should have done......." thanks

Carl, you think that the passenger side is beyond a POR-15 fix? There are a few really bad spots but there seems to me that there is enough structual metal left to do a POR-15 fix. This is just what I was thinking, I have heard such great things baout the stuff, maybe I am thinking 'too' highly of it? thanks

gnosez, i am a little confused about your rear sway bar comment. although my car does not have a rear bar at the moment, eventually, she will. are you saying that i will not be able to use a rear bar with that brace? i would be interested in buying that brace from you if you would bee up to selling it. thanks

carl, i have seen a set of the zedd findings pans and they do look to be of high quality. i am going to get under the car once the weather shapes up a bit here in cali. more than likely, i am going to just por-15 the pans and replace the frame rails with the zedd findings ones.