Zeus

I would like to use the finned rear cover on the R200 lsd in my 240z. I know that v8-240z (?) had aluminum braces available a long time ago. Does anyone have any for sale or the dimensions needed to make one. I would not need an aluminum one as it will be powder coated anyways. thanks

este, welcome your link doesnt seem to be working. i believe that you are trying to post a link to the site that sells theie rails on ebay. i have always wondered about those. they seem to just weld over the existing bad rails which doesnt seem like a good idea to me.....anyone else care to chime in? i have treated the rust with an acid base rust treater....i am going to be trying por-15 for the 1st time on that passenger floor. any help on using the stuff would be appreciated. does anyone know how much work i can expect out of the por starter kit? thanks

thanks for the reply 240zx. i will definantly wait until after the car is back together before swapping out parts in the diff. I am sure i will be happy no matter what....i will be driving my Z after all

240zx, I currently have 195/60/14 falken azenis rubbers. Eventually, when the car is back together, she will wear 215/50/16. I have a 77 5 speed and plan on keeping it because of the lower gears. Last time I drove the car was with the 3.36 and a very tired :dead:(nothing done to it in 30 years) l24. Apon restoration, I will have a fresh l28. I really am going for the low end power as this car will be a weekend only driver and autocrosser... thanks for the quick reply

Carl, I am not at all unhappy with the tokico kit. My car has the factory bushings still (yes, the ones that were on it when it came over on the boat). This is the only improvement I have made to the suspension. After a full urethane bushing set, a bigger front sway bar, a rear sway bar, and the lsd i just found, I should be able to pull at least 8g's through the twisties....well almost

I found a 300zx turbo lsd in the wrecking yard over the weekend. It is a 3.70 but woud like to make it a 3.90 or perhaps a 4.11. Would I just need to swap out the ring and pinion? It looks brand new inside and for only paying $20, I will just keep the 3.70 if it is too big of a deal. Thanks

Last year when I got way too involved in cleaning the valve cover, I used simple green to get the 'greasy' stuff out. After that, I let it sit in my shop sink overnight with ATF and simple green. ATF does wonders for that type of work.

Well if things look alright to tokico and a few others on here, I am going to go with that. Thanks everyone.

I have had the luxary of stripping my interior over the last week. I have known about a little bit of rust in the floor for a while and really wanted to tackle it sooner rather than later. Passenger side is worse than drivers side by far. I am pretty sure the passenger needs to just be replaced while the driver I think I can fix. Just wanting to get an opinion from some guys with more experience and have gone through this before. Passenger behind seat Passenger front driver front driver rear and on a side note, is this rippling common? It looks to me like it has been compressed from a wreck or something but this is the only sign of damge anywhere. thanks

Just went and took some more pics. I have the fenders out so it makes it a lot easier. Car jacked up....the wheel is still firmly planted to the ground and at ride height can anyone say that this much compression is normal?

I have verified part numbers with tokico and they are all correct. They did have spacers that were welded to the insert itself at the bottom. They were about 2 inches in height, but again they were at the bottom. Springs are in their perches where they belong. To answer how I got the compressor off, I actually did not need to use one. Believe it or not, I could actually move the spring up and down about 3/4" when the strut assembly was assembled. I have read in a few places that this is fairly common so I did not worry about it. The idea of a PO swapping struts is not too probable, but has crossed my mind. My car sat since around 1982, also, they had the original shocks in the tube, no insert. Tokico seemed to think that not having bump stops might be the reason but I do not see how it could affect ride height unless the car was actually bottomed out against them, where it shouldnt be. When I jack up the front, they fully extend, which eliminates a short strut problem. Looks like I need to take the springs out and have them tested some how. Does anyone know if Midas or the like would be able to tell me what the spring rates are? A rep from tokico told me they are supposed to be 140f and 165r. Has anyone used this specific kit (ILK-252) before? It is the one being sold on ebay all the time.

After upgrading to my springs and struts to the tokico ILK-252, I have been a bit concerned about the amount of travel in the front. The pictures posted below are of my car sitting at the curb, no passengers and a half tank of fuel. FRONT REAR As you can see, the front has virtually no travel left. Even with the struts on the highest setting, around corners I can feel the front end bottoming out. The ride height does not look significantly lower in the front and the ride quality is not 'too' bad though I think it should be a litlle softer. I am concerned about damaging the strut insert since I did not install bump stops but that is another story. Do I need to have tokico replace something or am I making a problem of nothing?

I would be interested in their price for the complete car kit. I have been looking to buy their interior kit for a while now. To me, I can work a lot faster just tossing nuts and bolts into a bin rather than into labled ziplock bags. The only con that keeps lingering in the back of my mind is the fact that no matter how new and shiny the new bolts are, the metal that they are going into or holding together is still the same 30 year old steel. Still worth the extra peace of mind to me. :cheeky:

thanks for the info mr.camo one of the local yards is having a 50% off sale next week. i am looking to go get everything needed for the r200 swap. does anyone else know if i will need the front cross member as well?? finally made enough room in my garage to park the Z in there out of the cold....only for her to tell me that her tranny tail shaft seal isnt working too well. oh well, could be worse carl, i will have to post a pic of my exhaust. it is the factory system but all the hangers rotted away. bent wire hangers with a pep boys patch is all that holds it together merry christmas guys

I would really like to find a replacement for my car as well. From the time I had looked at and bought the car to the time I picked it up (3 days), someone decided to snag the original ashtray, radio, horn pad and owners manual from my car. Over a year later and I am still as heated as I was then.

Thanks Carl and Ed. Pondering about this overnight has given me two more questions. 1) Would it be easier to just keep the CV shafts with the 300zx R200 and just buy the adapters from modern motorsports? I would like to go this route to keep from having to find another R200 to gut out, but if its not reccomended for some reason, I wont. 2) Will the moustache bar from a 280zX or 300zx work? My guess is no but there really arent any of the Pre ZX's in the yards near me to rob one from.

sounds like I need to post a picture..... I would like to eventually put a 300zx turbo lsd in it. My biggest concern is: if my car does have the earlier style mounting, does this interfere at all with the conversion to the r200. From a slightly different view, were the body mounting holes changed/relocated at all as far as the series 1&2 goes or was the bar just bent to make the change? thanks

Hello all, this is my first post on this site though I have been reading for over a year. I would first like to thank everyone for the infinate amound of knowledge contained within this site. You have all made my Z car restoration so much fun. I have a 1971 240z with 45k original miles. I bought the car from the 2nd owner but he had not done anything with it in the 2 years he had the car. She had been parked since around 1984. After going through the brakes, fuel lines and tank, carbs and spark plugs, she drove fine! i drove the car for about 6 months everday to work and never had one problem...unbelievable. I have since decided to buy a new car in order to restore my Z. I put a 5 speed transmission in from a ZX (99% sure it is the later of the 2, not t5) and am looking to upgrade the rear end. I would like to put a LSD eventually and am looking just to get rid of the 3.36:1 right now. I do not know if I have the early or late style 'moustache' (proper spelling, thanks kats) bar. i had to cut the tunnel to get the fifth gear to work. The bar appears to be straight but I don't know if there is a significan bend or just a few mm. Are there such cars known to fit both series 1 and 2? I have found a few things that make me go back and forth on this one.