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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-240z-Drivers-Side-Headlight-Bucket_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42611QQihZ006QQitemZ160088067711QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Here is a metal scoop for sale on EBAY right now. Yes, I bought both fenders last fall. Jim

It would not be the first new bearing that I have seen bad. You may want to also inspect the fork the bearing rides on along with the pivot. Either could be bent enough to put a side load on the bearing. I have replacements for both along with the bearing. I will install them as I put the motor back. I do not want to drop the transmission once I am back together.

I prefer Folgers

The top end of the strut bolts to a bracket that bolts to the body. Some one has probably taken it off. I know mine is in a box right now or I would post a picture of it.

Bought mine on the rebound from Europe. 21 years old and still have it some thirty plus years later.

Once you break the surface of the terminal with any abrasive. The tinning that was plated onto the terminal to protect it from corrosion has been compromised and needs to be replaced and or recoated. I use TF20 Freon or alcohol and a soft nylon brush. I am going to pick up some DEOX it and try that this next week. As my Freon supply is running really short and it has gotten really expensive. PS emery cloth equals sand paper only difference is using a cloth backing

I still have the original plates on my 70 but, there is a program here in Washington that has been changing plates on a regular basis. Both of my other cars, truck and trailers have been swapped out at the time I renewed the plates over the past couple of years The back plate on my car is good but the front is toast.

Same experience here got the early one from Nissan.

Make that four of less in the US then as I too bought one from a dealer. Same price as Arne delivered to my door step. My experiences are like Arne's rebuilts in my opinion are scrap metal. Like Jimmy said unless they are sleeved do not use them. The difference in price is not worth your getting hurt or worse.

I used MOOG after market on my 70 and they fit fine. Part number K9011. Came with all hardware and boots. Ran about 40.00 a side.

You are asking questions quicker then I can type and post pictures. Yes, it is easier to over lap the panels. The process I used was a crimped lap joint. I laid out the pieces then cut the panel out leaving an extra 5/8” of metal on the car. I then crimped that 5/8” lip so, the panels laid flat on each other. Temporary clamped the panels together and then screwed them in place to get the proper fit. This will take some time. The black line you see on the cut out picture is the weld line and edge of the crimp. Notice the panel left on the car is the one that gets the crimped lip and allows you to screw the panels together in the fitting process do not get in a hurry. Speed in this case causes a lot of extra work in the end. Note I left the gas door replacement out at this time and came back and fit it in later. I bought the crimper from Easwood online. I used the 3" pair that is made out of vise grips.

I used MIG to weld in all the panels on this 70. As was talked about it tight places a MIG wins every time. The TIG requires a couple of extra cooling lines to keep the torch from doing melt down (more bulk in the welding area). Plus you control the heat with the hand or foot switch and feed the rod into the welding puddle with your other hand. I use a wire made for welding sheet metal panels together. It is softer then the metals you are welding and grinds smooth faster. Called easy grind up here in the Northwest. Basically it has higher silicon content. Used C25 as the shielding gas and stitched the panels together. I screwed the panels together every two inches and welded the holes up after the panels were welded in place.

I agree with Arne and always take the old parts with me. With build dates of 6/70 and earlier the ball joints are no longer available. You get to change the steering knuckles as well.

I have had enough of these ridged flexible pipes clog up with debris getting caught cross wise in the ridges that I am a little leery of using it. The fix is still much better then letting the water and silt wash on to the rocker panel and fender. I will stay with the smooth wall tubing if possible. Still second E's comments great thoughts.

PM sent on sugar scoops. Also interested in radio

Let’s get back to the question even though it was ask in an underhanded way. What are the advantages of owning a 280 over a 240? Look at the facts not opinions. Nissan learned a lot about rust control over the years believe me I know that one. There are several mandated safety improvements. Like has been said you can not really compare the two but, both have there places, advantages and disadvantages. Why do I own a 240? 280’s were not made when I bought mine. Will I ever sell it? Sure, but I haven’t in over thirty years. I drove a 280 back in the day they were new and did not buy one. Why money. I did find the receipt for mine. I have more money in parts this past year then mother paid for the car to begin with. The car is quickly returning to the same condition as when I bought it.

MSA also lists them but they are Tabco parts. Bought one rocker panel from MSA because Tabco was back ordered.

I don't believe I buy that one. Being a 240 guy for many years just never could come to like all the extra stuff in the 280 and on. Nice cars just not what I think of when we are talking sports cars.

I received the Series I hinges from Jerry and rehang the doors. Just like I expected the doors fit like a glove. I did shim the top hinges out on both sides but the lower hinges fit perfect. Now that I proved the fit I will go ahead sandblast and rebuild the full open mechanical mechanisms and paint these hinges. Thanks for all your help.

Bryan The two wires go on the keyed side of the connector. That is the side with the steps in it. I would post a picture but, don't have the connector accessable.

It is pretty hard to get your car done with out the pieces. That is my whole point in post 14. How much time was allowed to get those and then you are at the mercy of others. After being stiffed by people who have you order rare or hard to get parts and then never see them again. Leave the car and I will order the parts. You are right most shops want nothing to do with this kind of work because of the head aches listed in post 14. They would rather work on new cars bolt parts off and on and be done with it. It took me 56 days to get the left fender that was useable a part I can get in three days or less for a newer car. Ten days was quoted and I was fine with that. I have been looking for a set of usable lower door hinges for over a year on this series one. Have located three sets but, none of them are in my hands yet. At the quoted price you posted I would not even look at it. Too much risk of what is underneath these cars. I told Arne 1000 bucks a side to repair / replace the rocker panels in one of these. I have never got something I did not pay for. I have got over 200 hours in just paint prep alone on this one. I don't know how you do that in 4-6 weeks. Arne to get the yellow car ready for paint 6 to 8 months. Real work 8-10 weeks.

I just had the same problem. Thought maybe I had logged out the first time but, happened twice more after that. So, no it is not just you

First of all from reading other posts I know that there are parts involved and some rust repair to be done before the paint on Randy’s car. So, what is really happening in the background? Enrique; I have no idea how far over my time frame I am. Yes, the time worms were every where. Let’s just talk about getting the body parts required. I ordered the dog legs for both sides, (later found that the right side could not be used), both rocker panels Received them five days later. The left rocker was good right had a hole in it. Called the supplier they sent me another one received it six days later. Ordered the lower right quarter repair panel, it was back ordered, cancelled order, changed suppliers received panel seven days later bent beyond use. Filed claim with freight carrier settled forty five days later reordered the repair panel. Started repair with the parts I had and decided there was no cost effective way to use the fenders on the car so, ordered a set from the dealer. They came in ten days later just like clock work. Unboxed the fenders to trial fit them the right one fit like a glove. The left one was damaged in transport. Reordered, came in ten days later in worse shape then the first, sent for another one received it and it looked like it had been in a hail storm. Ten days later received a fender that fit like a glove. Received the repair panel for the right quarter panel about this time so, all is looking good. Discovered rust in the frame of the hood and called to see if I could get one from the dealer. Jim at the dealership said that he had one in stock. I think my heart stopped this just can’t be. Went down opened up the box and it was perfect. The easiest parts to get were the ones that I had fabricated at the local sheet metal shop to repair the battery box and firewall. Even some of those were done twice. Two weeks and nothing is done??? I would trade in a minute. This is just the parts problems we won’t even talk about the metal that was replaced that could not be seen until you cut the rusty areas open or hit it with the sand blaster.

Local Nissan dealer.

It is also shown as item #5 on the early cars on the page 27 of the Z.50 catalog.