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The power to the coil and dizzy go through the tach. It either has to be in or jumpered if you are using the engine wire harness.

He can not be much of a purist or he would still have and protect this car. Block sender and move on. I do own a numbers matching 70 but, define stock!! Coming out of the dealership it has never had steel wheels or hub caps does that make it not original I just replaced the rocker panels with none stock replacements parts? Its got NGK spark plugs where do you stop. Really like the look of your car have been following it for a while. Would I of done to that what you have? probably not, but it is not mine and I still think It is a sharp 70. Besides if he was a true Z purist what month did they even build a blue on blue? A lot of cars have come and gone here too, still have the Z but, hey do what you want and enjoy. You built one you could always do it again if you decided the Z was the right play toy.

If you are doing a complete rebuild don't even think about using the old oil pump. As has been stated above they are not that expensive to risk the rest of your investment.

Anytime you paint with compressed air you should use an air water seperator or filter. Yes, water is a factor in the curing process of POR.

I am glad you all have had good dealings with him. Not my experence at all. I went to order the hatch repair panel PO 56 for my 70. The price on his web page was no where near what he wanted for it when I called to buy it. So, I went else where bought it for less money then he quoted to me. Have not called him since and probably won't.

I went back and re-looked at all the effected pages of the microfiche and here is what is called out: Per Microfiche page 13-3 number 26 two studs in the top P/N#08223-84210 and the middle inset up to 4/70 had a bolt in the bottom number 20 P/N#08110-03562 bolt hex with washer. From 5/70 to 7/73 calls out three studs. P/N# 08223-84210. From 8/73 lower inset number 21 two machine screws in the top with number 22 washers plain. Still uses the number 26 stud P/N# 08223-84210 on the bottom with a different gasket.

Stephen; Per Microfiche page 13-3 number 26 and the middle inset on that page up to 4/70 had a bolt in the bottom (no part number listed) every thing from 5/70 on calls out three studs. 08223-84210. Am I reading that right? My car a 6/70 has all studs per the Microfiche.

My stock L 24 has three studs on it. I would lean that way as this fuel pump has not been removed before and then Arne's Low milage car matches it. The only thing missing on my stock set up is the smog pump and the two hoses going to it. Will get into the parts CD tomorrow and up date you if there is a change.

One other thing it could be is a badly worn fan belt. If the belt is badly glazed or not tight. I have seen the belt slip enough to cause some of this as they get warmer and stretch a little. . Not a common problem but another place to look.

Depending on where you get your alternator Might ask and see if they have a clamp on amp meter and have them look at the output of the alternator. Other wise you are up to changing the alternator. There are three things all common to the alternator that could be causing your problem once we know the grounds and power wires are all correct and clean. A faulty diode, bad or dragging bearing or faulty windings.

Did the same thing on my 4A easy fix on that one. I carefully turned a 5/16" bolt in to the piece left in the transmission and as I threaded it in, the plastic piece came loose and I pulled it out. I bought a new one from Jim Banner in Spokane at Wendle Nissan.

Why would you do that? I would much rather be able to grease the fittings as needed. I just replaced the tie rod ends on my car after at least 100,000 miles.

Arne; Do you know if there is a difference in the port sizes front to back? If there isn't a difference what would stop you from just swapping the reservoirs so the larger is going to the front either way? Then if my mind serves me right don’t the later master cylinders have the large reservoirs on both the front and rear?

Steve; My rocker panels look like that too now but, I have just a few hours getting them there. I am on the band wagon of do spray the inside of them with POR as soon as you get a chance.

Great job, I too bought a new Honda motor. I am also in the process of refreshing the heater. Will follow suit, I live a couple of blocks from an auto upholstery supply store. Will have to drop by and see what he has in the store. It is good to see in pictures what I had envisioned in my head once again thanks.

If you are charging they are correct you are looking for discolored and or dirty connections. I would take them apart one at a time and rebond them per the instructions listed below. No, just that you need a good ground to the block. I do not recommend it but, I have run a ground wire from the bolt that holds the motor mount on the block to one of the bolts that hold the front cross member on my car. The other wire you must take apart and rebond is located just forward of your battery common to the wire harness. The harness terminal connects to the fender well with a Philips screw. It is the main ground wire for most of the systems in your car including the alternator. To rebond it take it apart clean the terminal so there is no discoloring left, then clean the fender well common to nut welded to the fender. I ran a tap through the nut to make sure it was clean. Then I replaced the screw and pressure washer. As you reassemble these connections clean all the surfaces with alcohol being careful not to touch the mating surfaces with your fingers after you clean them. Finding EMI problems is such fun!!

I am going to ask a couple of questions and then some statements. First question is does the alternator charge the battery? When they did the test on the alternator did they use an amp meter to see if the output was constant or just check the output voltage? There are two things the alternator needs to charge one is voltage to excite the field and the other is a ground. That being said I am going to go into the things I have done to my car as I am refreshing it. After seeing pictures of your car you may want to as well. I have removed the alternator and bracket from the engine block cleaned both the Block and the alternator mount bracket and then bolted them back together. I also cleaned the mounting surfaces between the alternator and the bracket. You will notice on your original alternator that there is a capacitor bolted to the alternator case a noise filter. The case of the alternator needs this ground as a reference and also as a second safety path should the alternator short out internally. The second half of this ground or return path is the starter. It also needs to be clean both at the wires that mount to it and the starter to the block. I did the same here. Cleaned both the bell housing and starter mount points. (Since the motor was out I also cleaned all the mounting points between the block, mounting plate and bell housing.) The next thing to look at it’s the wiring itself. You have stated that the ends have been cleaned at the starter and alternator. Are the crimped on terminals sound is there any visual damage? The insulation melted, discolored copper showing? Lets go on to the next joint in our cars the red white wire goes to an intermediate connection under the dash some place close to the glove box. It is a male female spade terminal it then goes over to the negative terminal on the amp meter have you check those connections? The white wire does the same under the dash and the goes to a couple of connectors behind the fuse box and then on to the positive terminal of the amp meter. These connections common to the fuse box and behind the glove box have been hot in my car and will be replaced before I put the dash back. Hope this helps

Our cars are one month apart and there are 1111 cars between them. 6/70 6160.

Keith you will get better results if you fill out your location and what year and model of car you own. Makes a big difference in parts. The build dates really help.

E; I also have one stuck at 1100. That you can use as well. I believe I have a good one to replace it.

Thank you Carl. My car came with the wheels pictured in my avatar. The Keystones have been on it since it was new.

I am surprised there wasn't a gold Z with dice hanging from the mirror with the hood open when parked as well as an orange Z that has some assembly required on the site for sale also. The link was also sent to me. I understood the fun. What a group of great guys to build and travel with. Arne is there a link to your Northern office in "Vancouver" where there are four more Z's and a Datsun Roadster for sale.

Do you have the special two stage crimper to install those terminals?

Mike; look like this: http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0C4C7D765AA58600B2D1072+M37+ENG http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L0C4C7E7859B586002AE1072+M37+ENG

Mike; www.waytekwire.com stock numbers: 32914 male 32915 female