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It is probably easiest to get the tubes out and screw plugs back into the holes. I am not going to remove the air tubes on mine unless they give me trouble. But, in your case you have to repair it some how. As bean dip stated it may be easier to get another manifold have it decked and then use it. Welding or brazing on the rusty fittings in there now will be a challenge to say the least. not to say I have not done so.

Here is the damaged area cut out, a pattern cut and the repair piece ready to be welded back. Yes, I did match the doubler on the repair piece. The piece fits to the top of the inner frame rail on the opposite side of the fender and welds to the frame box all way around.

Yes, there was a doubler to stiffen up the frame box aft of the tension rod fitting. It was only spot welded in and not sealed so it collected water and rusted out over time. See the pictures on this post.

It can be fixed. I have repaired both sides of my car. A common problem. Will post pictures in the am.

Stephen; I am looking for the correct diagram for your car. Do you have the rear window defogger? As I have said before our wiring is different then what you have been directed above. I am comparing wire diagrams as they come into me. You will not find a white red wire in your fuse box. It comes directly from the engine bay. I am trying to get the all the tie ins correct in my mind and then will give you some ideas on where to look.

Funny 918 for 70 does not show up.

E. are you sure? I have always seen the hot as black or red and the neutral is white. Ground is either green or bare copper.

The seals you are getting are for a 280. They fit a 240 except there is just a slight difference in door post thickness on the 280's that is why the 240 doors are so hard to close. The dimension between the hinge and the seal plane on the 280 is slightly wider giving you the extra seal compression.

Wasn't that one of the options to solve the vapor lock on the old flat tops?

Mark; Had close to the same experience except I just got the seal cut when it snapped in three directions. At least they are not real expensive. Mine was full of rock chips and needed replaced so, to me no loss.

Yep thats right, wanted 45.00 to put it in with my new seal, and if they break it putting it in it is on them.

You need to reread post number 4. Carl states to leave the nut on the threads and hit the nut with a brass hammer pretty clear to me.

Because of money, time and family requirements I left my car stored for several years. I am in the process of reviving it now. I started out to repair the right rear fender well and then paint as required. Some were along those lines things changed. I am nine months into a refresh that is way way deeper then I thought I would be. But, I want to be able to drive this car again with out all the frustration of a car that is thirty plus years old. Like when I first got her. I have spent the past six months getting rid of rust and getting the body straight. I will have primer on it this week. I have come a longs ways but there is still a ways to go. Here is a thread on Mikes car he too took some time off from his: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22827

I would take that bet. As right now one of the pins is facing up and one down On my 240. Depends on who put the pins back in. Standard practices say that you would put the Keepers in from the top and the nuts on the bottom. So, if the nut failed and came off the pins would not fall out. Either way Carls statement is better as he has you drive them out from the threaded side. You are giving info that is not always correct. My case as an example. FWIW

The outside diameter of mine is 1.75 inches as well with old fashioned bends no mandrel used on this one. This answers some of the clearance issues the guys are having getting the larger pipe under these cars.

Take the five bolts out that hold it to the strut, compression rod, ball joint and torsion link and have it pressed out. Less chance of damage and one heck of a lot faster.

I have to agree with Escalon. I can not help you in my knowledge base is early early stuff. So, rather then post bad information or my opinion I just let the ZX stuff go. Not to say the cars aren't nice. I just can not help you with something I have no knowledge, books, or diagrams as references. Call it rude if you want but, I won't send you down a road on I think.

If there is no bracket there some one has cut it out. My 6/70 also has the bracket along with the stock AM radio.

I am sure that the wheels were dealt locally. Mine came with Keystone's on it. Not slots at all. See my avatar. Still on it by the way.

Did you know that the ball joints are smaller on cars with a build date up to 6/70. Not a big deal until you need one.

Thanks Stephen was about to ask that myself. He's talking about plates. We change them up here all the time. You send the state a check for the tag and sometimes you get the tag, sometimes you get the tag and plate both. Have yet to figure out when they deem it time to change the plate.

Jim; Using POR 15 is a three step process. Every set of directions I have received has stated the same thing. Clean, etch, paint. With out the "Marine Clean" cleaning process I have seen the same thing. You MUST clean any surface that POR goes on with Marine Clean then Metal Ready. Otherwise you get what you are describing. There is more to the cleaning process then just degreasing the surface. One of us used Marine Clean on a set of polished aluminum wheels so; he could paint the spokes black. The wheels ended up completely flat etched surface if you will. Our distributor up here in the North West is very clear on the process. Sorry to hear about your experience. I too would be very weary of the product as well under those conditions. I was told at an automotive paint store that Marine Clean is not necessary. Glad I ran across the distributor before I went to all the work to clean and prep the metal wrong. Needless to say I have not been back to that paint store.

I have not seen it fail when installed by their directions. By this I mean clean the areas with their degreaser (Marine clean) followed by Metal Ready then apply POR 15. I agree that I have had it come off of areas that were not treated in that manor. Good thing too. Matter of fact it peels off in sheets. Escalon and Beandip have both had this on their cars for several years with no failures. One of us knocked a can over and four years later we still have the POR 15 on the drive way. Sand blasting, grinding pressure washing and the North West weather have not phased it. By the way all three of us run this in the wheel wells of our cars. Still looks like we just applied it. I think I will pass on stripping it off.

I just finished up the rework on mine and can not buy into the thoughts that stainless is the way to go. After thirty six years of abuse these floor pans were in great shape. The only places I had rust through is where the frame rails were rolled over by those new fangled jacks used in most tire shops these days. The deal there was that the under coating was broken and I did not fix it until it was way too late. All the rest of the metal in the floor panels was solid and cleaned up nicely. I had a local sheet metal shop bend the frame rails up for me at a nominal cost. Yes, I did section the floor above the frame rail and then welded in both pieces. Charlie Osborne’s floor panels would have been my fix if my floor pans were in any worse shape. One of the guys in the Northwest had a pan he did not use but of course it was not the one I needed. If it would have been I would have used it

Start here.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8522&highlight=exhaust+fumes Then go to the forums under help me. The information goes on for pages.