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How about original L24 matching numbers. One part that was not rusted. Hope to have this one running this winter. Want it on the road for Canby next spring. Have a ways to go but, have come some distance already.

Been down to Oregon a couple of times and always enjoy the people. I agree with Arne as to the new friends. Funny how I have met with the guys three hours away yet have not gotten together with the guys across town.

Wish I could get mine all in one room. Although it is getting easier as I have turned the corner and am now putting bolts together instead of pulling them apart.

Here is the complete rework before paint. Installed battery tray with bolts. Now it can easily be removed, cleaned under and then replaced.

Maybe you can get lucky and get the one on ebay. It is not my luck.

I have a couple of questions first where did the alternater come from? Was it tested before you put it in the car? WHY ARE YOU UPGRADING? Did your old alternator work? I know that I am going to change mine as well but, the wiring and alternater in my car works. Having worked aircraft electrical systems for over thirty years I will tell you that just because it is new does not mean it works!!!! Chased a problem down to a part changed it and still had the same problem. Will make you tear your hair out. Does it happen often no thats why it bites so hard when It does. How old is the fusable link? The extra amperage may have blown it as well. I know I am just going to change mine. Having the wire disconnected from the adapter should not of caused you to hurt the alternator. If you miswired it that is a whole nother story. I agree with E. have the alternator tested and go from there. Next make sure the wiring on the car is correct and test fusable link.

My 6/70 also follows the early picture for 69/70 cars.

So, is your 260 an early one? Welcome and feel free to ask questions? Some one will pipe up.

I agree with both jmortensen and beandip on this one as well. I will be running a 79 ZX dizzy in mine as well. Bought it rebuilt last month or so.

The backing plates are used up to Aug 76. So, yes I am looking for 280 brakes.

Yes, they are drums. Upgrades us to a dual plunger instead of the single we have now. I am still in the research mode. Like has been said above drums workwell as long as you take care of them. I have had more trouble with disc then with drums.

I was thinking about upgrading to zx brakes on my 70. Still can get parts and do not have a fortune tied up in parts.

So, now that it runs take over and get it done. Or like several guys on the site have done is do it yourself. Too much time and effort goes into one of these to not do something like that if it is really bothering you.

Get a volt meter and measure the voltage across the battery terminals while the car is running it should be some where around 13.5 to 14 volts. If it is not you are correct to have some one check the alternator to see if it is charging at the correct out put.

Could be the voltage regulator as well. Might be time to upgrade to the zx alternator. Gets rid of the external voltage regulator and charges at a higher amperage. These older cars have a marginal charging system to start with and if they electrical load has been increased you fight the charging system.

I paid a little less for the mirror then that from Banner

E mail Jim Banner at the link below he keeps those mirrors in stock. jimb@wendle.com

johncdeere What is stopping you from using bed liner? The rock chips in the fender wells is one reason why I elected to go to POR 15 and then chassis black.

Arne I was thinking it will go down low as we don't have the pocket to contend with was looking at mine this morning. The real question comes on where to put the pivot? There is no place above the quarter window to mount it with out welding in a doubler and anchor. I would guess just behind where the hook is now. I know the retractor Bean dip used was back by the hatch. I am at the point where I need to make a decision soon. I want to get the paint on this one soon.

Good to see another 70 owner. I came from Spokane originally now in Tacoma. Welcome hope you find this site helpful as there are many very knowledgeable people here. Also in the eighth month of a refresh. Hope to have this one back on the road next spring in time for the show/rally in Canby.

I just did mine in POR 15 black and then over coated them with the POR chassis black.

Looking good Mike, glad to see you went forward with it. With all the yellow cars in the area keeping mine 918 orange. I am not a big fan of the tail light finishers the same as the car but, then it is not my car. I am going to put mine back to the original color. Can not wait to get the windows back in mine.

POR 15 and then chassis black.

Hi Tom; I am one of those guys Arne talked about being up north I think of the Portland Vancouver Group I am the furthest North. I am actually in Tacoma, WA. but, have found the friendship and knowledge base from this group of guys well worth the trip down. My car sat for several years and last winter I started the wake up on it as well. My car had some major body rust and I have now gotten that all taken care of as well as possible. I did a compression test on my engine and was surprised how quickly this L24 came up to the 170's. Barring some major problem with mine I am going to just run it. See what we get and then make a decision on what to do next if anything.

Sounds just like the locks on my 70. Sat in the wet Northwest weather too long. The lock assemblies on the Z car is no more then three springs, two sets of levers using six pivot points. Controlled by a set of long rods. One set of levers controls the latch and the other set the lock. Both lever sets must be free at all pivot points for the locks and latches to work correctly. They are independent of each other but, can not interfere with each other either. Which is what the problem with yours sounds like. Unless one of the springs are broken. Enough of that. What I found with my lock assemblies was that the six pivot points were full of rust and dirt. I took the locks out of the door washed them off and oiled the six pivot points with PB Blaster let it sit for a few minutes and slowly worked the levers ( the rods attach to) until they came free. Took half an hour or so and now they work a good as when this car was new. Cleaned, repainted, oiled the pivots and stored the parts until the paint on the car is complete. On the early series I cars there are no adjustable rods. The only place for the interference is between the lever assemblies common to the latch and where the rods go through the door. my experience FWIW PS I found no little green men in my doors either.