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The first part about part numbers is correct as removed from a 6/70 build date manual transmission. That is why I ask Arne if he still has the part numbers from the automatic harness he took out of his 71 automatic. I would like to get the numbers stored somewhere so we can get back to them later as someone else also asks these questions.

Arne, We went through this earlier this year and you are right the harnesses only came as sets. The part numbers on the two harnesses do not match the single number in the parts list. Does it really matter any way since we can not order them from Nissan and the ones being salvaged have the separate numbers any way? We might want to start a thread on which harness numbers are for auto and which are manual. I can get the manual numbers from the 70. Do you still have the numbers for the auto?

Its got to be rust here.

I am in the process of refreshing a 70 240z build date of 6/70. It still has the original Toyo spare tire as a spare. How do you deem an old tire like this as serviceable?

Maybe next week. I will get down.

my 70 came with a toyo it too has not been used.

Mike; From the pictures E has sent me, first chance I get I am going to PIR. It is three hours from here. Also, some great guys to hang with and just ask questions. They also have some really nice 240s.

Thanks Ian, just one of many lessons we learn in life. Think then type.

Just tried it and yep I will keep the spare tire as is. now I remember why I never did this before. part of that age thing again.

Arne. Since I have six Keystones wheels, Two never having had tires mounted on them. I am thinking I may just use the worst one of them as my spare.

The spare wheel on my 70 is black as well. Still has orginal tire on too. Should probably look into updating the spare at this time.

It is a hybrid electric car see the seattle news papers was in their paper yesterday.

I am currently in the eighth month of my refresh. I have more of this car apart then together. I am currently putting the front struts and Euro springs together. Pulled the cross member out to refinish under it as I redo the front wheel wells. I have replaced all of the rust in the front wheel wells and am in the process of painting POR 15 over all of these repairs. My goal at the moment is to have this car ready for Canby show next year.

Over all you won't be sorry you took the dash out it is the right way to attack your electrical problems. Looks like you are well on your way to get her back on the road again.

That part number 24253-E4100 has been replaced several times so you may have a problem finding it. But, I have found other parts that I was told you could not get. By the way the parts CD is a great investment if you need many parts. It only shows one hole in the firewall and the above p/n for the grommet. Which I found interesting. I have a 6/70 with both holes in it. S/N 6160.

I have only owned one also. Good to see another WA Z owner.

Try this link for the diagram; http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12516&d=1148842545

I agree with Curtis to check and see if you have power through the fusible link. If you don't you need to replace it after you figure out what is going on with the fuse in your fuse box. Otherwise you may very well be in a vicious circle where one part is causing all these problems which is my guess. Could be as simple as a shorted light bulb or turn signal flasher and as complicated as a shorted wire some where.

IS there more then one fuse you are blowing? Or just the same one over and over again? Is it just the dash lights that do not work or are the turn signals dead as well. Figure out which circuit the fuse is in and start taking out parts or disconnecting them until you get the bad one. There is a wiring diagram posted on this sight by "onuthing" that is pretty basic.

Wish I could read this diagram! Maybe you can and then send it to me. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21924&highlight=tach Sounds like a bad tach. Mine is stuck a 1200 all the time. I have a least one four wire that does not work as well. I did buy one to replace it but, I am not sure is is any good either.

Read up on it and like said above by Tom. Unless you have welded a lot it is easy to burn through. I had to add doublers in a couple of places. I used both the flange and over lap methods on mine. It is easier and stronger at the same time.

Here is the cowl welded up just before POR 15 was coated on the outside. Nate if mine looked that nice I would throw a party.

Might want to think about going to a synthetic oil. Redline, amsoil, Lowers the temperature.

I guess after thirty three years of one Z car that I have to agree with both Will and Gary. Still trying to get the grease off my hands this week. Almost make it and then another trip to the shop and we start all over again. As far as trying new things I am on that boat right now. I have never had a car torn this far down that I planned on driving again. I just keep learning the cleaver little things that make one month different from the next. Sure am glad I picked up the parts CD as one more time it explained why I can not get the parts I am looking for they were only used up to build 6/70. So, off to the swap to newer parts we go again. At least I know to start asking questions and looking at the books. An awful lot of great "GEAR HEADS" on this sight and around the Northwest. Thanks to all.

The adapter is made for the 240 I do not know if it is what you are looking for but here is the link to the posts. Ask z ondbrain http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20571&page=5