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Do not put POR on the shiny side as a temp finish. It is hard to sand. The longer it sets the harder it gets and paint will not stick to it with out using tie coat primer from POR. There are several brands of phosphoric acids that you can use but, you still need to paint it. The pickling is to stop rust and you need to do that as well anywhere you sand through to bare metal. Truly the best thing to do is paint it with an enamel paint.

It is just a wide clamp. Bean dip used them on his car as well fit into tighter places and give you better flexibility.

Makes it easier to get help. If we do not have to guess on what car you are working model and year makes a big difference here. Actually in some cases even the month matters. I also suggest you pick up the parts CD. Supports the club and also saves you time waiting for an answer.

Yes, you need to cover up the bare metal. Don't use just a primer. It is porous by design. Get a cheap rattle can "enamel" paint and cover up the primered panels as you go. Think of primer as a sponge. Would you tape a sponge on to the bare metal and then drive around. I know that is extreme but, it makes the point. Remember that you are going to sand this paint back off as you get ready to paint.

Just think the first bids were at 24.00 I got out at 156.00. really is getting crazy again.

I got my kyb's from the same guy as Arne posted on your other post. .

Welcome I am in the middle of a refresh on a 70.

You did better then I ever did you at least got the right country.

The front ones I just pulled out are Gabriel numbers are 44869. Using the link above they now have a g in front of the numbers.

jon; Looking at his pictures there is more rust in those rockers. After having several of these a part I can not agree. If only the front three inches were bad I may agree. But he has rust on the top letting water into the rocker panels the full length. I am not talking just the front fender what does the dog leg look like? I was going to post pictures of the inside of the last set I pulled off which were in better shape then his but, my camera died. I my case I can replace the rocker almost as fast as repairing it. Especially once the dog leg has been cut out. Lets me treat the metal under the rocker the full length while it is apart. I don't see any damage in the center of the rocker on the other link so why use it as a comparison? Comparing apples and oranges. I also believe I said if the ends are also bad change it if not repair it.

What do the ends of the rocker look like where the fenders fit up to it? If they are good by all means just patch it with flat stock. If the ends are also rusty then you will want to replace the rocker panel. Yes, the rocker panel from tabco fits nicely.

I am on the POR wagon. Who said the redone tank was opened up. Is probably the same process as the one done by others. No one takes the effort to do the processes as well as the owner of a restore will. If you follow the POR directions I can not see how you can miss any surface in the tank. Of course there are always the ones who will short cut the process and then complain that it does not work. All of the ones done up here are completely clean and giving us no problems. JMO

The rear window defroster is in some series ones and not others. Depends on serial number and build date. The fact is the series one cars have some parts and wiring that are a moving target. When you get a CD on the parts break down it gets more confusing until you understand how the cd or micro fische work. Notice there are two long pigtail fuse boxes in post 5, but the connectors are different. Both series one cars.

Sure soured me.

The wires route up the right side of the console. Just forward of the end of the console you will see two spade connectors one is a blue wire with a fuse holder in it the blue wire connects there. There should also be a red wire with the other spade connector right there as well. They are in two different wire bundles so, don't let that throw you. They will be really close to the cloth cover that wraps around the wire harness in the passenger side under the dash. Hope that helps would take a picture but the dash is laying on a bench right now.

I am with you E. if you can not drive them why own them. Here in the north west we just under coat everything and drive them. Wash them and keep them up. I think I can count the times I did not get caught in the rain quicker then the times I did.

I don't remember the muffler hitting any thing when we were out must be you E. :nervous: E does he drive far enough into your drive way to hit never has when I was there.:beard:

Jim; I would of cut and spliced mine also but there was nothing left to splice. There was more metal in a cheese grater.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=999M1-S30ZR Here is another number for the panel.

I did the same thing and when I called to order it. They said no way Nissan wants more then 110.00 which is true. Need less to say I did not order one from them just because of the price switch.

Same place only different. Cowl area bad drainage.

Nice try E but; they wanted 180.00 when I called on mine. Nissan's part number is 999M1-M0000./ Good luck

I am sure mine will run again too once I give it a nudge and oil it.

Looks like maybe some one has hijacked his account and is doing the dealings on it? Happened to us a couple of years ago. Takes a couple of weeks to get the process rolling and then some more time to get it all sorted out. May be wrong but, sure smells fishy here.

The clocks actually work in these? Mine never has at least not in twenty years.