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Give it a try. It should relieve the stress at the end of the crack. Do let us know what happens.

Andy; Thanks for your input on the work done for you. I am with you and Arne on this one. The only reasons I have not driven my dash down to them is money and sequencing of the refresh/restore on my car. I will see how things go through the winter and go from there.

I have not seen the value of a good clean car going down. Especially the series ones that have been either restored or kept up all along. Yes, those of us with series I cars will be the first to admit they are the most prone to rust problems. I do believe a few of these cars were sold at inflated prices. To get the money out of mine I have just put into it will have to be through driving and ownership pride, rod runs and friendships. I do have a biased view as one who owned one of these cars when it was not cool to own a Japanese car. Most of you would of scrapped this car I have owned for thirty plus years yet, I am putting her back on road one more time. I promise to post before and after pictures this fall as I get closer to complete. Also, have a few of the west coast guys after me to post the articles of how I did the different repairs. Got to run the UPS driver is here with more parts.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21921 65100-n4200

I just bought a new ZX dizzy for my 70 and will follow the instructions to modify the coil wiring and remove the resister. Everyone I know runs this set up with great reviews.

We had one as kids and it use to scare us to death in the snow. The slush would freeze the clutch and brake linkage. So, you would start to stop only to find yourself with no control. Can't shift and the brakes did not work. Our fix don't drive it in the snow. Was a good little car otherwise. Put a lot of miles on it as we lived 40 miles from town and drove in everyday.

HLS30.com has used their service. PM him. I got a quote from them and decided that I needed some other parts before I redid the dash. I am going to put a carpet cover over it for now and will get the dash restored later. Too, many things in front of this right now.

My 6/70 also has no drain valves and the squared off float bowl but, I do have the plastic dampers. The heat shield is also with out the notch.

Just for the record I did get my 240 from Monroe st Datsun. I still own it and we are now in Tacoma.

I agree with Arne only other thing is if you can not find a nut with safety holes in it you may Want to use a lock nut set up like the thrust rods use. If the surfaces are not parallel then build a spacer or shim to make the bolt and nuts mating surfaces parallel.

Bruce; The other thing to check on your carbs for your choke set up not operating smoothly is the fuel lines from the float bowl to the bottom of the carbs. If they are to stiff you get what you are describing. Replace them with hoses from either Nissan or Z therapy and this stiffness will go away the springs can not over come the drag of the stiff hoses.

As was said above it is very hard to sand and gets harder the longer it cures. I used the POR patch to fill some rust thru pin holes where I could not get at the back side and it did a very nice job, yes it does sand but it is really tough stuff. I too will use the ti coat primer over it. I do not want to take a chance and get the paint peeling off later. Too many hours invested to mess up over a quart of primer. Do read and follow the caution notes as this is really nasty stuff.

We bought our series I with the Keystones on it so, it never had hub caps on it. It was shipped with just the steel wheels, (hub caps came seperately) I am sure they stayed in the parts dept. So, Arne you are right. But, yes it should of had "D's" on it.

I have not seen inner rockers anywhere. I just repaired mine from sheet stock. All came out well but, it is some extra work.

I would like to see all the model cars together also. How do you plan for the late shows? There were at least five 240’s that were not sure we could even get there until late Friday night. We were all parked together on the side so, double edge sword. I agree that all should pay to get the expenses down for all that show up. Might want to look at putting a buck a head on those who are just looking at the cars. Could help defer the cost a bit and get the attendance up. I did like seeing all the iron. Quite a cross section of Datsun cars, Sure was nice to see the older sedans and wagons.

My 70 is original and I plan on keeping it that way. The 4A transmission was rebuilt a few years back and has served me well. I am now looking for a newer 240 with an auto to use as a daily driver in the worst traffic in the country. Both because the cars themselves are in better condition and the time spent in stop and go traffic. As far as better feel and handling I can build either set up to work well depending on its use. It only takes money.

Arne and I have been down this street before and the numbers that I posted are the ones that make up the assy that Nissan sold for our cars. My car is a 6/70 and as Arne has stated the wiring is correct for our cars. The lighted defogger switch does not come in to play in the series I cars at all. The series one cars should have a solid black rocker switch mounted in the console, behind the choke lever.

Here is a link to onuthin's galley he posted one that is correct for the early series cars. This one shows the switch and the glass. My FSM does not show it for the 70 either. I know that we have the wiring straight from the switch to the window heat unit. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/member.php?u=9811

Ben, It is a lot easier to get information and help with your car if the members here now what year and model we are talking about. Early 240s had two keys one for the doors and one for the ignition switch. The key blanks are different depending on the year and series. FWIW Might want to update your profile to show the year and model.

From a 6/70 they are 24013-B4651 and 24013-E4650.

Once again what are you trying to do and where do you stop. I agree with whats been said about replacing the radiator. After thirty years they do not cool right. Has to do with metal properties. I have my radiator at our local radiator shop right now and it will be like new when I get it back. I am going to run a stock water pump, fan clutch and and upgraded plastic fan with out the shroud. Look at my signature and I will say I have never had a cooling problem with this car even in the hottest of climates. I can not advise anyone with a 240 to use an electric fan unless they upgrade the alternator also. I am going to use a ZX internally regulated alternator with the adapter that Arne supplies to us. The stock alternator is marginal at best with just the very minimal electrical draw. When I am done with this refresh all cooling parts will have been either rebuilt or replaced.

Just getting to the final body work stage on my 70. I believe the quote was "there was more metal in a cheese grater then the fire wall" . Pulled this one from the dead. So, a banged quarter should not slow you down too much. I agree with E and your thoughts of looking for another shell.

My 70 is the same as the one Bryan posted. the difference is the wire colors do not match but, the function is the same. The ground wire going from the turn switch to the combo switch is red instead of black.

As my brother would say "You just build tinker toys" but, you are good at it. We also agee on the charts. My last hood I did pick up a variable lens that actually works really well. Thanks Jim

Here in the Northwest that would drastically shorten my welding time. We see very few days of sunshine days in a row, during the winter months of the year. I own several hoods and have had no ill effects from any of them. I like my solar the best because of size and shape when working in enclosed places otherwise I use my battery powered one. I have had darkening problems when using a TIG but, never with my MiG. I have had less problems since I went over to the auto darkening hoods. I am with you Will, if I was having trouble with my eyes I too would go back. You must use a really dark gold lens ?