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Not original on your 70.

MSA sells six different four core new radiators for 244.95 one to fit all models. I like Bryan have never had problems with my three core. I have changed mine a couple of times over the years and will do the same this spring. Mostly because it is coming apart still cools okay but, don't want to catch the loose cooling fins in the fan either.

I have dealt with this guy a couple of times with out any trouble. Payment of international money orders only from any one. Solves a lot of problems and as said "if they do not want insurance" I always protect myself buy the insurance. And as always dead beats are not restricted to any one country, city, county, state, or providence.

I too am going with the euro springs and GR2's they are all sitting here just waiting for all the rest of the parts to come in. I am going to replace all the bushings with rubber as I have had this car long enough to know it will never ride like my Crown vic nor like my truck either, nor do I wish it too. Just want to get back to close to the stock ride.

You will need to find the plastic tank or bypass it. The later panels do not fit your 70 right.

There are three spot welds that hold the bracket in place see the picture in post # 37. I don't see why you could not open up the dog leg panel tack the nut in place and weld the panel back up. You may need to replace the metal with a new piece and then refininsh the repair and put the dog leg back in place.

They will do anything you want it just takes money.

I have been told that many times about not having a part. And yet go talk to Jim with the part number and sure enough it is still out there. Lesson out there is ask by part number. Get the CD and it will pay off big time.

The wire should break out of the wire harness on the right side lower inside rocker panel under the passenger seat and route under the passenger seat to the switch on the e brake handle. There should be a spade terminal about four inches from the switch itself. Yellow wire with a blue stripe on the harness side. They were in a plastic sleeve to start with. The stripe on my harness almost looks green after all these years.

You may find that the tach wiring is wrong for your 71 as well. Does the fuse box have a short pigtail?

I don't call thirty years temporary. But, this product like all others has to be used as it was designed. It can not be used as a metal replacement. There must be a backing for it. It also has to be completely sealed from all moisture sources. I think we are all here at some point.

Two things Yes you can make your car more than just safe and drivable.:classic: :classic: As has been said two or three different times it just costs money. My car is proof of that. I will post pictures of it when I get it done. Will write about the process and how I over came some different problems. Right now my focus is on getting this car more then just streetable. I bought my car from my mother. So far:tapemouth it has not made it any less rusty or taken any of the problems away. It is just history.

We might could swap those later. Gotta keep at this right now.

Found that mine always runs better after a trip like you plan to make. If all the belts and hoses are good go for it . Does your car give you any over heating problems in the summer? If it does not go for it. The passes are no worse then the area you drive in now.

These cars are always full of surprises. The age and the fact they are sports cars has something to do with it. Just because it has bondo in it does not mean it has been hit. My passenger door is straight and has bondo from the factory. As did the top. Skim coat they call it. Now the aft valance and hood are a different story yes they were hit. Looked good until I got into the restore process.

Have the same problem with my tach. It is stuck at 1200. Bought a four wire to replace it.

Mark I spent all winter under mine. I know you can bring them back from the dead but, as far as a restore I have to say the best mine can be is a real clean driver. Not that there is anything wrong with that. I too love the way these little cars handle. Listen to Beandip he has watched me on mine all winter. I have cut the firewall out in two places fabricated new parts where the cowl panel rusted through and where the battery box fender well junction meets. Repaired the right front inner fender well and frame rail box. Repaired the right hand floor panel replaced the floor pan stiffener. Repaired both inner rocker panels, replaced both outer rocker panels. Replaced the left dog leg. Repaired the left front frame box. Fabricated the right rear inner fender well. Cut out and replaced the panels behind both seats. Replaced the lower half of the right rear fender, replaced the fuel door and pan and straightened the drivers door, hatch and rear valance panel. Replaced both front fenders and hood. Fabricated new brackets to hold front fenders and nut plates in place. Once you get started the list just keeps growing. I have put my welder away twice thinking I was done and it is out again. Have to weld gussets in the doors so the window frames will stop cracking out the door skins. I can not even imagine the cost of labor to get all of this welding done. Not to add the time it takes to build and bend the parts to fit. So, all that to say are you sure you want this car? And go for it if it is the one. But, be warned up front it is a long dusty road. I know Beandip was in his car three years. There are a couple of others on the site that are close to and over ten years.

In the process of doing a 70 that was in just a little better shape then yours. if I had not owed this car over thirty years and it having a low vin I would of found a nicer one to start. Some days I still wish I had. There are some better cars to start out there.

The surprising part of the hood deal is that it was in stock at the dealership. Just have to pick it up or have it shipped. What e said for price is correct.

The pictures look just like the ones of mine except mine is within a couple of weeks of paint. I guess anyone can give up. It has crossed my mind more then once. But, I have built friendship's with some of the members in the NW who have kept me going. Every one who has seen the pictures of this car has said they too would of given up. This car has been saved from the dead. I could not weld either but, did the research found a votech school with welding classes for the hobbyist and enrolled. Spent a couple of nights a week in class for a couple of months and the rest is history. The biggest expense in my car is time. I have replaced both outer rocker panels, repaired the right inner rocker panel, fabricated new parts and rebuilt the firewall, fabricated the right front inner fender well and battery box. Rebuilt both front lower frame rail boxes, repaired the right side floor pan and replaced the stiffener under the floor. Replaced the floor pan behind the seats just forward of the tool box storage area. Fabricated the right rear inner fender well replaced the lower half of the exterior rear fenders, straightened the drivers door repaired the inner brace in the door straightened the hatch and lower rear valance panel. Replaced both front fenders and hood so, far. I don't have eight years in this car. It all started the first week of December last year. I put two hours into it four nights a week and one week end day a week. A couple of days I have run down to Vancouver to see Escalon and Beandip to ask for help and get pumped back up. There are two really nice Z's. Looking forward to meeting Nwcubsman and Arne also. As far as being stock define that? This car was never stock from before it rolled off the show room floor. The interior was modified as were the wheels and tires all by the dealer.

I would say mine is being retrieved from the dead. After three months of work on it you would not know it is the same car except that it occupies the same space. Spent all winter rebuilding or replacing the firewall, both outer rocker panels, rebuilt the inside rocker panels, redid the right floor pan and frame rail, rebuilt the right aft inner fender well, right front inner fender well as the battery box. Replaced the lower half of the right rear fender and replaced the left dog leg just to start. Straightened the hatch and drivers door. Replaced both front fenders and now I am in the search for a different hood. I am now looking at the rear skirt and left rear fender getting everything ready for paint.

I am going to use dumb dumb. I picked it up at the local RV parts store. They use it to go under roof vents and such. You can also get it at an auto paint store.

I pulled mine out in one piece. I only took off the hoses and linkage and wiring. Everything else came out in one piece. I did use the leveler and was able to pull the engine out by myself. I will change the clutch parts and reassemble the engine trans and put it all back the same way.

Both of mine were stuck at one time as I took my car apart. Be careful when you tap on them they are not very thick and easy to strip. My 70 seal was just bent around the corner and glued in in place. the ends were at the bottom.

The striker plate is not slotted the threaded plate behind it moves. See attached link for a picture of the door post with the fender cut away. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11821&d=1144374128 The kits sold are for 280's and the door frame on those are just a little wider from the crimp weld to the door hinge. Which makes the weather stripping hard to compress. Search for weather stripping and you will find that some of the guys have found a replacement from JC Whitney that works better.