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I have to say listen to these guys! Beandip took a primered parts car and turned it into screaming yellow very nice driver. Yes you may live in Nevada where it is dry but, they still have sprinklers, do you wash your car. Those things include water. Remember that primer even the primer sealers are still porous. Have to be to get the properties that make them primer. Even if you use a rattle can get a top coat on the primer. Other wise vision taping a sponge to the metal and leaving it there. Is that a bit drastic yes but, makes the point. Believe me I do know rust.

I used masonry washed sand. Worked very well. Very fine and I too sifted it as I reused it to keep any lumps and foreign particles out of the blast hopper and hose. Biggest deal is keep it clean and dry and wear a mask. I personally use a respirator to keep the silica and rust particles out of my lungs. This past week I spent some time with Enrique and his play ground sand worked every bit as good as the masonry sand. Just follow his post above.

Loren do you have a lighted switch or a plain black one? If it is the solid black one the wires are red and green coming from the console switch. They hook up to red/black and blue wire with a fuse holder in it. They are located on the right side of the radio.

I am using PPG Acryli-clean DX330 Wax and grease remover. Picked it up at the local Automotive paint store.

I guess a couple of question that you need to ask yourselves is why am I sandblasting this in the first place? Is it to remove rust? Is it to remove all the paint. Why? Is there an easier less evasive way to get the work done. In some cases yes and some cases no. The risk of work hardening of the metal also happens when you shrink the sheet metal during sheet metal repairs, weld in new panels, re-chrome or re plate parts. I have done all of the listed things and probably some more I have not thought about. I do not think there is a one answer fits all in these cases. Rust repair is done best if you can remove it completely. We all know that, that is not always possible or cost effective. So, I have used many different processes depending on the circumstances and is this part structural or cosmetic.

I bought OEM from Nissan at a great price and they fit like a glove

I guess that I once again disagree with the common thoughts on undercoating. A couple of things to remember is was the coating put on right to begin with and what is your reasons and expectations for the use of undercoating. I just got through scraping the undercoating off of my 70 which was applied in 70. The only places that I had problems with the floor pans is where the under coating was removed. Scraped off or damaged some way. All the places that the coating was intact the metal is good. This product is like all others the prep is everything. I did have rust problems on the right floor pan not because of the undercoating but, because of damage to the floor pan stiffener. Probably by a jack used in tire shops to lift the cars up from under the frame. I have seen this same damage on several Z's where the stiffener is rolled over. Then it collects water and dirt is out of sight and before you know it the major rust appears. I am going to POR15 mine and then I will recoat it with an undercoating. Which one is still up in the air.

Time is still time and yes even in storage they continue to deteriorate under those conditions. Left mine stored in the garage for several years and all the hoses are bad. I did like Beandip suggested to you and my engine came around over alittle time and effort. Biggest thing is don't be in a hurry to get the engine turned over make sure that all parts are moving freely.

I 've had mine just a short thirty three years

Might get better help if we knew what you are working on. Model and year

Yes, that picture is from the right side but, on mine the drivers is a mirror image. It is a clear shot but, at alittle angle. I will look at a 73 here soon and see the difference.

Welcome Randy, I am in Tacoma.

Here is a picture of the door latch adjusting plate with the quarter panel cut out. I still believe that you can get lock nuts on those bolts after taking this picture. Will take some time and a couple of tries but, I think time still well spent.

My series 1 has always had WA plates. I bought it in Spokane at Monroe St. Datsun in early 70's. My car is not that far away either at 6160.

Best fix replace the sending unit and do not over torque the new one. Once you stretch the threads it is hard to get them sealed up.

Got any friends with motor cycles? They will have one.

There are only one buyer and one seller are you happy with the car? That's all that matters. The rest is just personal opinions. I paid 1,800.00 for mine in 73. Too much? Thirty three years later I would say probably not. I am in the process of major repairs and repaint and will have two or three times the original price in it this time alone not counting my time. Worth it, would be spending my time doing something else if not.

I guess from what has been posted here the resident experts do not care enough to listen. I have taken alot of effort in looking for these things and just must be too stupid to get it. See ya been insulted enough

I am one of the guys looking for a zx dizzy. I agree with Arne.

When in doubt, start your own thread IN THE APPROPRIATE FORUM. HOW????????? It may not be rocket science to you but, alot of these people are not getting it

To the posters defence there are no clear instructions or expectations I have found. Where to post, whats required, when to start a new post, how to do that? What information is required in the users profile. I am a site veteran started with the old style forum and do not understand the above things either. So, we need to make it easier to understand and I think most of these problems will solve them selves.

This all sounds so, funny to me. But, thanks for the info. I too will use the one from ebay. I guess the plug on the fan motor is not going to look any more out of place then the zx alternator adapter or the relays to the headlights or the wire changes for the zx dizzy. Or the newer radio in the dash? I am just not into the AM that came in mine stock.

I have never had as many flat tires as with Firestone Affinity on my Crown Vic. to the point that they will be replaced next week. The guys at the tire shop agreed that they see more flats in those also. They do not know I am going to replace these.

As an electrician that gets to follow the people who don't label these connectors and wires. I did not even think of not labeling mine. Yes, I could of figured it out but, why waste the time or take the chance of burning up some electrical part that is hard to come by or expensive to replace. Just to maybe same a couple of minutes. The other thing to remember is the wire colors do not always cross through connectors. Might be red on one side and black on the other. One place this can happen is under the steering wheel between the combo switch and the turn signal dimmer switch. Been called on that more then once. The other reason I labeled mine is life happens and what was once just going to be a couple of days. I will remember where all of these go has now turned into several months. As is my case right now. A simple replace the fenders repair the wheel arch is now a rolling bare uni-body. Do what you want, the professionals will label them every time. Too expensive not too. FWIW

The early Series I's have no decal at all.