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What kind of parts are these and how soon? PM me

It could be a lot worse some one could of been hurt. Then you would have all the legal stuff also. Like has been said. PUT A KILL SWITCH and battery disconnect switch in it. Unplug the ignition fusible link. But most of all change or repair the motor and enjoy. my 2c

Before I got too excited I would look at the fuse panel and make sure the fuse that powers the right head light is not corroded or the holder burnt. Also make sure the rivets holding the fuse clips in are tight and the wires to them are not loose. The power to the head lights comes from two different fuses. Also look to see if the terminals in the connector at the head light it self are clean. After that it is chasing through the harness until you find the source of resistance.

I do not know how you got into the tension of the chain. The original question has never been answered. Great info I guess but, not what the question ever asked. As I understand the question he is asking about slack. Now where is the slack on the chain. On the slack (tensioned side) or on timed side? And is it normal in a non running completely functional engine?

Don't mess with the chain the tension is controlled by oil pressure. When turning by hand you have no pressure against the chain.

Gary, I did get them from the Spokane dealer. Jim has only been more then helpful. Always gone out of his way. Give him a part number and he will say yes, no and how long you have to wait. Do most of the stuff by email.

Steve the pmed price was my total cost. Nice thing about the dealer is they ordered four of these fenders before they got one they would let me have. Yeah "Wendle Nissan" Thanks Again to Jim Banner for your extra efforts. So with the shipping they are still cheaper from the dealer. If you guys keep ordering these from the dealer they will keep making them so, as we decide not to they too will dry up.

They fit so sweet. I don't really care where they were made. Still had NISSAN logo's on both.

Get one from your local Nissan Dealer. I just picked one up last month.

Arne those metal fan blades look real cool sticking through the hood. Didn't help the radiator either. I lost two of those in the early 70's. Have run a plastic one for the last 20 years. Cools better also. My car will never make it in the stock class it never had stock wheels on since it came off the boat. Replaced at the dealship. Seat covers and a few other things not right.

Here are some shots of the in process work.

Do you have a place and the skills to do all the removal and rebuild of the body and frame rail parts? Can you weld and fab sheet metal? I only ask these because I am in the process of replacing or repairing both frame rails in the front fender wells, the inner fender well under the battery box the fire wall in two places where the water sat in the cowl and rusted through from the inside. Also cut the complete junction out where the right inner fender well meets the fire wall along with both rocker panels the left dog leg ( had done the upper fender well earlier) and the lower half of the right quarter panel not to mention the floor pan repairs. Was it worth it only because I can do these things myself and this is a car I have owned for over thirty years. . Would I do it again I am not sure I would, looking at some of the cars on Craigslist and the local news paper. I have far exceeded any cost of a cleaner car in just man hours alone. I have got more money in parts for this rebuild then I paid for the car NEW. Just wished you ask these questions before you pushed the bid button on eBay. I am not putting you down as I too have done the same thing. I own a very expensive pair of door sill pans I don't even need. A lot of us have done it just hope some one else learns from it.

I have used it with great results. Putting on every piece of metal as I repaired the rust in my car. and the complete top as I too stripped the paint due to a disbonding check problem. I only use metal ready where I am going over it with POR 15.

The originals were just cad plated. The 260 would of had the covering on the fuel lines. Explains where that insulation blanket came from.

I have owned my 70 for thirty plus years drove it in the southern states for years and never had a vapor lock problem. Note I am still running the stock four screw carbs. Even in the desert up here I have had no vapor lock problems. Do watch the temp carefully and have replaced the cooling components as required to keep this car running cool.

Never has been on mine. Never had a problem. Read the signature block.

My 240 only comes out in the lock position. The key is still captive in the off position.

Spot weld Cutter?? I think I missed. I cut the fender well out to repair the battery box and the frame rail at the same time. Both were effected by the years of wet Northwest weather. I had sheet metal rolled to go all the way to the lower side of the frame rail Fixing both problems at one time.

Think of a diode as an electronic check valve.

Now that you have the door adjusted. Reach into the hole and touch the bolt. Is it long enough to install another nut. If not you might want to change the bolt's one at a time to a longer length. So you can lock the bolt in place with the second nut. The down side of using JB weld in this method is it is brittle and fractures under vibration. By, lock nutting the bolt in place you will lower the amount of vibration and stress on the JB Weld. Snug the bolt up until its tight and then put the second nut on tighten the second nut holding the bolt head. You do not want to fracture the JB Weld. This is one method we use to secure bolts on air plane landing gear.FWIW

I went down to my local sheet metal shop and had a piece rolled to match the arch. FWIW

Like Dave I am not sure if your 260 and our 240's are the same. I know the 280 is a completely different switch set up. Do you have a picture of the switch itself? You posted some where this car came without front turn signal lights? Do you have those installed Now? Do yourself a favor and update your profile to include where you live city state and what car it is you own. You will get better responses from members When they have that knowledge. I have been into two of these turn signal problems in the past few months both were the switch. Both times we had ruled it out. The wiring of these turn signal circuits is different then most other cars. Here's a link to a diagram of the 240 turn sigal switch itself. http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Lighting/240Z%20Turn%20Signal%20Switch%20Circuit%20Modification.htm Hope this helps.

What Dave said is really true here. I have more money in parts for this car than I bought it for in 75. Which is not a good comparison. Especially with all the time and enjoyment I have gotten out of this one. Dave you know I have never had as hard a time writing a check to the parts guys as to the Dentist. Some things are just more enjoyable.

I agree with Chris. It is the same set up as my 70. The engine serial number and the data plate Engine number still match on my car. If you would like a picture of this one PM me and I will email it to you.

Since I am not going to race this car. I am going to replace mine with rubber, always liked the ride.