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Worked fine last week.

Like the red. Still left mine 918 orange.

Jeff; Steve is fighting this problem. I am glad to see the pictures. This is new info to me. I am looking into a similar problem. Steve could have this valve. Again thanks for the info.

I used SEM Color Coat Landau black (15013) and repainted the ones in this orange car. I bought new door panels and the panels all match and look like new. This paint made for plastics and vinyl.

Jeff; Thanks for that picture of the restricter on the carbs. I have never seen one installed and know my 70 never has had one. I have had this car in every southern state in the us in the summer and have not had the vapor lock problems. The flat tops were known for vapor locking.

Welcome Mike nice to have another Z around. I am down in Tacoma. There are several of us Z owners in the area. I run down to Oregon a couple of times a year. Hope to get my schedule to a place this spring that I can get up to the Seattle shows and over to Port Townsend this year.

I agree if you can not do the repairs yourself you will get into it way too deep. There are better 240's out there. I don't think I would to start on that one. As you said it is what can not be seen yet that bites you. If I had not owned mine over thirty five years I would not of put the time into it. Turned out nice but there were those days when I wondered.

I agree turn it over to the insurance people. I just received a check from a deductible I paid ten years ago. When I was hit by an uninsured driver not in the Z.

I am waiting for a couple of good rain storms before I drive mine. I know that is hard to believe coming from the Northwest. The snow storms this winter had the state dump salt and sand on the roads. I am looking forward to another good summer of cruising with the gang.

Love to make down Friday. Like Arne, I would say it is not going to happen. Look forward to seeing everyone again this year.

I would not have any problem replacing the rail or fabbing a piece to section in if needed. Note that the picture you used, was taken during the repair of the frame from the inside prior to replacing the inner fender well.

If it is just that hole below the battery. There are a few of us that have welded those up. I did a lot more then that to mine around the battery box.

I followed the instructions as Gary wrote above two years ago and save the engine in mine. Like Gary said make sure everything in moving and clears prior to using the starter to turn it over. By the way welcome from Tacoma.

After crossing the United states three times in my 240 I'm just not up to it. Slept on the deck above the spare tire while my buddy drove and he like wise. I just do not bend that well any more. The car will be just fine.

When I did the repair the picture came from I used 16 ga. and doubled it up to match the original configuration. I did not want to collapse that part of the frame if I ever hit something with the front suspension. The torsion rods connect just in front of that repair.

I agree with the guys. Fix it and repaint the hatch.

There are a few of us from north of the border that get involved down that way from time to time.

There should be clips that anchor the wires to the floor next to the rocker panel past the seat and then through a hole into the quarter panel. A couple of the wires go up to the dome light and rear window defogger. The rest fit into clips along the quarter panel even with the door opening.

Why do you need to strip the paint? You are skipping one of the best ways to find all the door dings and imperfections. I would fix the rusty areas first and then use a DA sander to sand off the paint slowly moving across the panels. Sand the whole panel evenly to find all the low areas. Fix these and spray the primer and paint back on the panels. The car in these pictures is one I just finished. I did not use stripper on it. Sanded the whole car.

I would not cut the bumper until I was sure it is the true cause. The original brackets are available from Nissan for about twenty five bucks a side. Bumpers are getting hard to get. I replaced the brackets on my car and got the fit that Arne shows in his pictures. I did prove that my bumper was the correct shape first.

This is as close as I could get the hatch. Ended up making tapered shims for the hinges. They were tapered in two directions and after it was all done I can not tell you what I ended up with installed.

Mine sat for over ten years and then eighteen months to put her back together. So, I do understand the back burner statement. The wait was all worth it in the end.

Sorry to hear of your experience. But, thanks for the memories just the same.

Send it this way I had a British green one in high school. We won't talk about when that was. It was a challenge to keep it running. Really fun when she did run.

My 6/70 has the E3001 installed.