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Gary; Per the parts list: the later 240's and on are all the same.

Welcome to the club. I agree with Gary pressure wash the whole car every where you can reach. Not having the dirt and crud fall into your eyes is so nice. Not to mention being able to see all the parts. Wish my car was in that kind of condition when I started.

It is really pretty easy to do see this link: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm

Watching Walt Disney in color. Remember pumping gas at 18 cents

My 70 was like number 1. 6/70 6160

Yes. I removed the tail lights and cut the metal keepers off with a pin router removed the chrome strip and shipped it to zeddsaver. Bought new keepers at the auto body supply store and reinstalled them.

The latch assembly is gummed up. You need to take the three screws out of the door that hold the assembly in that latches the doors closed pull the assembly out of the door clean and lube all the pivot points. Just did it to my 70 and they work very nice now. Would not lock at all before.

I got the chrome strips from zeddsaver and they are really nice. I saw a pair of tail lights he did at the Canby car show last year and they were sweet.

The carpet was miss cut. The floor pans were the correct size. Yes, I was pleased with both the fit and the service provided.

I can not agree with this underlined statement one of our members owns one of the Maaco shops and his work is pristine. You get what you pay for in all the shops. That is why we shop price and quality. Match what we want with the price we can afford.

I do not have a low milage Z. But, still look forward to meeting all of you in Canby this June.

Welcome Bart you will find most of the information you need here. Just ask and the guys and gals will help you find it. My car was one of those that was in pretty sad shape two years ago. Drove it out of the shop the first in December. Two years and a month from the start of this project.

Bart; Here is a thread to let you know that there are several of us with you in this work. If you want to see the details go to my photo album some of the work progress is posted there. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25446

My dealings with him are a crap shoot. Some times they fit some times they don't. As he has said in his feed back he reuses pictures and they do not always represent the parts correctly. I won't say don't deal just beware. If it looks to good to be true think about it and then bid if you like. Just do your home work first.

No I have not found them yet but, I have not given up and am getting more help as the car gets more exposure. Plan on getting more envolved in the Washington Z Car Club. Some one will spot them somewhere. Have you ever tried to shrink a casting down? Arne you are so correct. Built this car to drive and enjoy with my friends. Can not wait to wind through the mountians following all my PDX friends. Having owned this car over thirty years and haven driven the Z across this country four times leaves only the state of Maine that this Z car has not seen.

Have you thought about taking the fuel line off and blowing air back through the line to clear anything out and see if it will pump fuel. I have seen several bad electric pumps. A couple of the guys in the northwest are running RX7 electric pumps. When one of these pumps die call the flat bed.

Yes XRAY sure did!!! Gotta love the color on Steve's car. The first Z I ever worked on was that color. Of course the second one I worked was orange mine.

Nothing major I do have an exhaust leak to chase down. I did rebush and rebuild the carb's while it was down and replaced the dizzy with a new 79 ZX and upgraded the alternator to the zx also.

Those wheels are Keystone's.. Story is do not mess one up. I have not seen any others in years. From the time I poured gas in the tank to running was then twenty minutes.

All I need to do is decide on a license plate number. I am in a struggle with the state getting the okay to run green and white plates here in Washington. I am thinking about getting the old number on a new style plate. So, that the number will be the same as when it was new. Call the insurance company and this 70 could hit the road. I took these pictures this afternoon between rain storms.

The only risk on leaving the holes open to the backside is rust under the filler. May not happen right away but, that is what I found on every open hole on this restore. Either weld or solder them up.

Some things just work out I have only owned one. Still own it a few years later. I will be at the Canby Nissan show in June with my 70. Keep watching this board for more details.

You did not see what I started with on the 70. Replacing that floor pan is no big deal. I even have a line on a replacement taking up space in a garage attic. Go look at my albums and then repeat your story. Replaced both rocker panels, lower half of both quarters, repaired both inner rear fender wells, hand bent and fit metal to replace the cancer there, hand bent and replaced all metal under battery box, replaced and repaired the cancer on the firewall at fender well intersection. Replaced the passenger side floor pan, hand formed and replaced all the metal behind the both seats. Re built the frame rail on the passenger side and repaired the drivers side frame rail. Replaced metal in cowl box common to the heater intake. Repaired the metal above the windsheild. Replaced the gas door and inside pan. Replaced more metal then I left behind.

After just doing mine I would have to disagree. With the right skills and time it could be saved. It is just on the wrong coast for me. Unless you have seen pictures not posted here or on eBay.

Used the above method on both my hatch and drivers door to repair ill done prior work (open holes ) under plastic filler. I also used the copper back up plate and welded the holes up in my rear valance panel. The solder method is much quicker with less risk of over heating and warpage.