a7dz

6160 does have the spring build 6/70

I had to cut the inner sleeve to get it to come off. You have to be very careful not to damage the shaft. I only cut about three quarters of the way through and then split the inner sleeve of the bushing. Right side was the worst.

Heat the joint and then use the flare wrench on it.

Its up in Port townsend

I was there for a little while and then the rains came and I beat feet. There was a real clean 311 there. I m all for a different show the same date.

i am on my way up.

Looking better to be there.

I should be there

One of the members here made them. Do a search for that and shifter boots it will come up.

I bought the foam from my local upholstery supply shop. Cut to fit.

Remember that stage goes quick from here.

Most of those parts are replaceable get out of there

looks really nice

I got water into one of my tail lights do not know how and had the same problem. Cleaned up the socket changed the bulbs and all is good again.

I learned that there are two different paint formulas out there in the PPG world. Caused by EPA taking different chemicals out. The first 918 we mixed was no where close and the second one was spot on. The second one had some additives to get the color back. Did the mix a pint and see trick. In the end I think it was money well spent. I did use a single stage paint color sanded and polished it.

I would not use clear silicone. You cause a paint adhesion problems in the future.

I welded the seams solid and then faired them in prior to paint.

It is an easy lesson do not deal with him. Oh by the way his adds are not always correct and the parts do not fit the cars he says so that my friend is bait and switch. I just pay more money for them else where and win every time. Get parts that actually fit.

I would cut it out weld it up and move on.

I have to agree with both Arne and Rob on this one. If you weld it is just time forming the parts you can and getting the already formed parts from a supplier where available. I bent and welded in sheet metal in all of the places you are showing. I finished a car close to yours, better in some places and worse in others. As Arne said I would of started with a better chassis if I had not bought this car from my mother over thirty years ago. The car in question is the one shown on this post.

They had the early hoods but, not the 280's a year ago.

I might have to chuck up one of these new knobs and see how close I can get it to the correct shape. I'll bet it would only take some sand paper. I still have the original knob as a pattern mine is no where close to as nice as Arne's.

I put a couple of hours into both of the new fenders on my 70. Little stuff that just happens through handling. Yes, the new fenders are just as light weight metal as the originals. In my case the bottom three inches were there on the new ones. I do have a new left one here but it was tweaked in shipping and replaced by the dealer. The inspections doors do not fit as nicely as the originals. They still look good just do not latch like the first set.

I've put approx 1000 mile on my car in the last year and have changed the oil and filter twice. For the cost of the oil and filter cheap insurance. Because of this practice the inside looks really clean, better then I expected.

Do the easy stuff first. The power at the pump should be the same as the battery.. Make sure you have power to the pump. If you have power does the pump run. I have seen several of these go bad in the last year. If it runs does it pump fuel? and at what pressure. Have you checked the fuel filter. Just because the pump is new/ rebuilt does not mean it works just that it is new.