a7dz

I too am interested in the old style boot to go in my 6/70. I would like a pair of them at a fair price. I was looking through the Black Dragon catalog and noticed a gear shift boot under Interior consoles P/N 59-116 that looks like maybe an upper grommet. My boot came out in pieces but, looked like the one Marty posted in #22 with the rubber seal stuck to the lever well at least parts of it.

Steve; Everything looked good in mine too. I replaced the right headlamp with the same as came out (GE 6012) and in less then a week I had the fuse box melt down. Save yourself a lot of greif and get the relays installed and be done with it. It is very cheap insurance. Good Z's are getting harder to find every day. No reason too let a known problem take yours out in a fire.

Don't be too hasty getting rid of that car. Can you get your money back from the seller? If not is the hood in good condition. It is not made any more if it has the louvered panels in it. Might pay off parting it out or finding a replacement engine there are several around this site yours just for the taking.

. Why are you asking these types of questions in a public forum. Why not ask the judges themselves and be done with it. They will make the final decision one way or the other. So, if you are going to change the color any way who cares!!!!!!!!!!!!!Since those of us whom have owned these cars since new don't know who will in your opinion. There is no need to go any further with this thread as you have already made up your mind so stay with it makes no difference to me. PS bought my car from Carl Beck

I like Will have had my car over thirty years and the grill and tail light finisher panels are the same color. The texture of the two is different but, the color is the same. I too would like to know where and how we have came to that conclusion. Not to be argumentive just to get the correct info.

PM sent thanks Jim

I thought about cutting the hinge base down but, to get where we need to go with at least this set I would end up with at least half the thickness gone. Then I wonder about metal fatigue and the hinge center line planes. But it has crossed my mind as well. I would still like to keep the original look.

On a 240 hinge there is no adjustment in and out from the door post (except to shim the door further out). The hinge mounts to the door through a tight set of holes that do not have room for adjustment. I have taken the time to slot the holes on the series II hinge so the door could move in. The edge margin of the bolt hole on the hinge and the gap between the door skin and the hinge then came into play and I could not get the door to hang flush with the other body panels on the car. The adjustment in the hole as far as centering is not a problem. The gap is even all the way around. Having the center line of the hinge further away from the door post pushes the door further out at the bottom of the door. The 3/16ths of an inch at the hinge gets greater until you can throw a cat through it at the bottom. I would not be asking this question if the original hinges did not correct this problem. The doors hang flush and centered in the hole with those installed. My next thought is to get another set of series I lower hinges. If I can not find them then I can make a set with parts off of one lower hinge with a bad hinge pin. I don't even need a good one all I am looking for now is the mechanical full open mechanism and the spring and if I could just get the spring I can make what I have serviceable. Will take a little more work but, I am on for that at this point. I am thinking my best bet to find what I need is off of a passenger door. The spring and mechanical full open mechanism are the same just flipped upside down from side to side. Thanks for your help.

The line you are missing is the one that goes up the left side of the engine bay and ties into the breather and air cleaner . Stops at the left strut. The other end hooks up to the evaporater tank forward side top spud. The hard line stops just in front and to the right of the spare tire well. Here is a picture of the 70 on the engine bay left side.

I am in the process of restoring a series 1 240Z build date 6/70. The lower door hinge full hold open mechanism has been damaged on both sides and the spring is missing on the passenger’s. I tried to replace them with series 2 hinges but, the lower part of the door does not fit. There is a tapered gap from the top of the door to the bottom both front and back and the rocker panels have a gap or over hang of 3/8 on an inch. Removed the series two hinges placed them on the bench and measured the distance from the bench top to the center of the hinge pin. The series two hinge is 3/16ths of an inch taller then the series one hinge. I reinstalled the damaged series one hinges on the car and the door fits as they should. Has any one changed from series one to series two hinges and not had this problem? Note series one hinge is on the left the seriers two on the right.

Another thought is to just glue a doubler to the oil can as a stiffener. Do it on airplane skins quite often. No heat no discoloration quick and fast.

That is one of the errors we have discovered over the years. I have never found a car wired that way. The only way I have seen them wired when there is a accessory relay is with two 20 amp fuses one goes to the rear window defogger switch the other the fan motor for the heater. I posted a thread here a while back asking members to remove their accessory relays and then turn on the heater motor. With the accessory relay removed not one of the heater motors ran. I beleive that blower shown on the inline 30 amp fuse by itself is a electric cooling fan for the radiator. I have never seen on installed. Nor have I found a wire harness built that way.

YES You design a circuit to its current draw then size the wires and fuses to meet those requirements. The fuse is to protect the complete circuit. Being a professional in this field over thirty years I still stand with my post above do not over fuse these circuits!!! I believe the whole purpose of the upgrade harnesses that Dave builds is to decrease the current load on this antique wiring. Why would you willing increase It???? Then go on to say that you run the motor and its max current draw at the same time!!! Then put this statement after words saying you know your electrical systems are wearing out?? Its like saying Doc I know I have cancer in my throat and lungs. Please remove the cancer in my lungs but don’t worry about my throat because I like to Cough.

At least that many times.

http://tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/cgi-bin/search/searchpic.pl?1971-datsun-pg01.jpg look at 907 and 940 only greens shown in the color chips.

Did you adjust the rear brakes with the star wheel at all? My experience is that if you do not get these brakes shoes close to the drums the auto adjusting mechanism does not have enough tension on it to turn the star wheel. I actually adjusted mine up until I could not turn the drum and then backed it off to where the drums were just free. This will move the shoes so they are in correct alignment with the drums. When you had the wheel cylinders apart did you notice if the adjuster wheels had sharp points on all the notches all way around. If you get a couple bad points on either side the brakes will only adjust until the star hits that position and then the adjuster bar just slides over the top of the star wheel. The other question is do the adjuster bars both have sharp edges where the contact the star wheels. If the adjuster bars are rounded over the same as above still plays into the equation. The reason I ask all these questions is I have owned my Z over thirty years and the emergency brake lever has never been adjusted except when I replaced a broken cable. I just replaced one of my wheel cylinders because it was leaking and had a bad star wheel. The other one was frozen solid. I am in the middle of a refresh. If you find you need a star adjuster I do have one here that I salvaged off the old ones here. It is off of a 70 but, the star wheel should be the same. Send me a PM and I will get it to you. If all the above was good I agree with Arne go back to post two.

My first thought is what do the rear shoes look like and are they adjusted properly? Before you get into the emergency brake adjustment. The rest of the rear brakes need to operate correctly. Then you can adjust the HAND brake lever. Do the adjusters for the rear brakes turn freely. As Arne pointed out in a different thread this past week end the self adjustment is done by setting the hand brake lever. If the adjusters do not turn freely no reason to mess with the emergency brake lever. You are masking a more serious problem. Lack of properly adjusted rear brakes. my 2c's

The orginial out of my 70 is just a flat plug with a hole in the center.

Dogma420 The orginial fuse is a 20 amp fuse. I would not go bigger as you want the fuse to be the weak link in the wire. If this fuse keeps blowing you have something else wrong. The fact that the fuse holder melted gives the clue that the fuse holder connections were corroded causing high resistence and heat. Since you replaced the fuse holder I would say you fixed your problem. Mr. Legend Z Car Club If you are having trouble getting your car warm there could be something else wrong. Is the air coming out of the defroster and heater vents warm or hot? If it is not already hot you will gain very little by increasing the air flow past the heater core. If it is hot and you are just wanting to increase air flow to speed up the process this fan upgrade works well. By increasing the air flow over the heater core the duct temp will decrease some but, the increased volume makes up for it.

Looked Red to me too until I put it on a red background.

I got a orange one.

There a several good products used to clean and seal gas tanks, none of them use heat of any kind. I too have worked in aircraft fuel cells for over thirty years and I agree with Victor above. We will not even open a tank for entry until it has been purged with nitrogen for at least 72 hours, and then only after we have MEL and LEL levels that are safe for entry. The sad thing about this post is there is probably nothing wrong with his gas tank except some old leaky hoses. We have had a member put everybody’s life at risk who does not know better on pure uneducated speculation. I suggest that one of the administrators go back and delete all posts in this thread that put our members lives at risk. FWIW

After rereading this post I would have to say the most likely candidate is the vent hose on the top side of the tank which just happens to be the one with fuel on it when full. Located on the right side of the car. That would be the first place I went. When the seams leak the fuel doesn't normally follow a hose to the low point it could but, not as likely as the hose leaking it self.

Is it cold in Scottsdale this time of year? Why not do it right and pull the heater out, address the rust issues repaint the box replace all the seals, valve and replace the heater. Fix it one time. If I do not have time to do it right when will I ever have time to do it over? This is a car you are going to keep right?

Hi Danny I am up in Tacoma and am in the process of redoing a 70. Welcome, there are several of us around you so, welcome. Good to see another 70 still around.