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My 6/70 is like the one on the right. With the heat symbol being painted and the parking light symbols just embossed in the plastic and not painted.

The pressure roller is installed as Mike said above. If you want to get better control of the window part way down add the second roller. But once again fix the seperation between the door skin and the door frame. I just redid both door skins at the forward corner on my 70. Welded a doubler in to take some of the shock up when you close the door.

I would settle for just a few minor parts. Spent All winter welding in enough metal so I was not afraid to move her.

Don't let these humble owners kid you all four are worth the trip. All for different reasons. Spent six hours on the road to see these cars in Canby. A trip worth while. Will get the get er done bug turned up again if it is ailing.

The parts CD clearly shows the fender washer and lock washer both. I know my two owner car had both washers on it when I started restoring it. Will put both back after I get through.

I too have been down that street got a little dark a couple of times but was worth the trouble later . My thoughts and prayers are with you, your wife and the girls.

I was thinking about using the rubber or plastic that you dip wrench and plier handles. Dip the end in the plastic and it molds to the shape and will not fall off. Protects the paint and will look close to stock. Given that you do a clean job of installation like always in these things. Yes it will take some time and effort but all these things do. The other local owners keep reminding me this is a hobby and a good job takes a little longer.

Hopefully we will have to wait a few days to hear the answer to this one. Hopefully she will as much joy and worry to your life as our son has to ours. Thats all meant as a blessing to you and your wife.

There is only one ground back there on the early cars. It is about three or four inches forward of the rear body panel on the right side aft of the fuel filler neck. On the inside of the frame rail.

Was looking up stock bushing numbers to have on hand as I change the springs and struts. Found Nissan's part number for the strut oil. 54313-22129 not that it is a big deal just that in comes in 360cc containers.

John; First question again as always is why are you stripping the paint? How much time and money are you looking at putting into this project. What are you building? A driver, a show car someplace in the middle. Is the car solid, what kind of rust repair needs to be done. Is the paint on it now sound, checked, or cracked? Stripping the paint off is not always the best answer. If you remove it by using a DA sander you can see where the little damaged spots are that will need further attention later. Another plus is you get some of the lows to fill as you sand the paint off. You then can either leave the solid paint seal it and paint over it or continue to remove the rest of the paint after noting the lows and highs. By the way the paint on mine had all the above listed conditions some place on it. Oh yeah i am just building a daily driver.

Here are some pictures of how I did this one. Note the wire harness pass through hole is missing. I too welded it up. Fabbed pieces to redo the fender well and moved on.

The main reason you want to weld in the new metal is to relieve the stress points you created by cutting out the metal. The corners of the cut out will crack. That is why you see rounded corners in all the cut outs. The other thing is JB weld is brittle once it dries and it does not do well with the vibrations. I did not think you were going to leave a hole just cautioning you on the effect of these uni-body cars.

I do not how you came to the idea that the firewall is not structural. Yes you have to replace the metal and yes you need to weld it in. I even welded a gusset to the back side to back up the pieces. The frame box and inner fender well are all interdependent on the firewall. The firewall acts as one side of the triangle to transfer loads as you move the car.

My new fenders are no longer in the boxes. They are in the installation process. OEM also.

I have been PMed a couple of times and read on several posts that you can not get one of these.:mad: Yet, when I got home from work friday afternoon this box was leaning against the garage door. Yep OEM hood.

Every time I start talking about what is my time worth I get the same message from the guys up here . "This is your hobby right?" Looks like you have the hard part done if the panel if off. Pound it out and see what you get. Been surprised by ones much worse then that one. Besides that one does not look that bad. Unless you have hidden some major damage some where. I would trade for that one over what i started with any day.

Bought the original rear window defogger switch for my 70 at a price of 7.95. Would like to have a couple of those now also.

Wish I could say the same about tabco. Never did get a response from them. Ordered from MSA had them in three days cheaper then the printed catalog prices. All my dealings with MSA have been good.

Won't see mine this year either. Next year for sure. Missing just a few parts.

Roger; Welcome I am not from Oregon but, will be down to Canby this week end. look forward to seeing all the guys.

The originals are the same and like the one on the left. There is no clearance problem so it really should not matter which one goes on which side.

I am with Lance and E. on this one yes, it can be fixed. But with all the special tools required to fix it you are better off to get another one and use this one for parts or sell it to someone who has all the tools to get it done. As was said there have been several 240's sold this spring that would make it easier, quicker and most likely cheaper. Most of them in the TX,AZ area. I can not remember working on a z that did not have damage to the lower roll pan area.

I agree with Arne on the seals. You can see where they were if you touch it. It is no longer. With these heaters being marginal in colder areas my not be a bad idea at all. I do not have the air conditioning to deal with either. How ever I did have the dash out when I took the heater box out. No I did not take the dash out to address the heater hoses. I was repairing some rust in the cowl and fire wall area. I did cut the heater hoses as they were toast any way.

Mike is right there are no end cap pieces on the early ones. I will have to get the parts CD out to get to when they changed. And the rubber pieces do belong between the bumper and the body. Good call Mike