HusseinHolland

Took the drivers cushion apart. Foam is pretty screwed, not sure if I can actually repair this EDIT - found a good DS cushion complete with heater pad (mine is damaged) for reasonable (in the scheme of things) pricing. This one has cracks all over the place. Since it's the outer bolster, it's gonna look like crapola if it's not perfect. I'd have bought a pass side since they are always in better shape, but the DS has a bump out between the legs wire bolster weld was torn Fixed that aspect - EDIT - looks like a stress crack below the spot weld ridge in line with the welded bar

Took the airbags, seat belt receivers, and cushions off the seats documenting wiring. I powered the seats, and made sure the seat tracks were set in the rearward position - they were. track length 16.75" airbag bracket 4 bolts on each cushion frame.

Much lower- mine hang off the roof pillar. I was not looking forward to mounting the Wesco's up there. Do you have any pics of the reel mount under the cover? Presumablay adjusted in some way to allow for the strut brace. I'm thinking I may just make a welded (removable) steel brace. It's not like I don't have the time. I have some DOM tubing I bought & didn't need for the pickup conversion, so I could use that - might be too HD though - I think I bought 1.5" - 2" OD.

OK. Another change I see - the seat belt reels are mounted on top of the strut towers? Does that mean there is a belt guide under the 1/4 glass? On my '75 there is a captive nut, probably 14mm, in the sheet metal behind the trim panel. Wondering whether that would be a good location for the Wesco belt, instead of up high where it creates the neck choking condition...

Those look great! Very bold to put white seats in a car - would never work for me, I very often forget to change out of (auto) work before getting in. I'm going to try & fit the rails without modding the tunnel. Looking at the pics I have, it's had to discern if the gap is enough for the 350Z rail to fit inboard of the stock rail location without elevating the seat. Don't really want to go that route if I can avoid it. Hopefully I can check that out tomorrow. EDIT - do you have a rear strut brace? I'm thinking that may be a necessity.

EDIT - that 75 with all that muck (stone chip protection??) sprayed inside makes me shudder 🤪 Ah - I see it now. I do have a bump. I will have to see what happens when I take the DS apart to fit it.

Had a few hours today, so I filled the pie cuts & added reinforcing washers on the PS rails. Cut the 2 DS rails & started welding them also welded a bead on the backside where I had bent the plate tools for cleanup Added a rib across the top side of the bend also

In mine, L& R floor / seat frames are the same early pic:

Went back through to find this (many thanks for the details) - The stock belts just won't work if I want to add the 350Z outer mechanism trim - which is a must - So I've ordered the Wesco Roadster Retractables w/ 11" receiver sleeve. That should allow me to adjust the angle of the mounting rails very slightly outboard at the rear, which will give me at least a inch or two of rearward movement.

Took the seat power & heater wiring out of the 350Z Couple of issues. I neglected to mark the fore/aft setting of the outer rail before I cut off the standoffs, and observe the stock rake of the cushion in the 350Z. What I have found is that the 350Z rails sit precisely outboard of the 1/8" 1.5"x.5" C channel rails I'm making. Figure it's significantly more rigid than flat stock. I'll possibly add cross braces of C channel. I'll tack the 350Z rails to these first, after I fill-weld the cuts. doesn't look like the seat cushion / base will hit anywhere at this drop though Have to figure out if I can dismantle the rails to allow for welding the new with the existing. Don't want to melt the plastic guide inserts. Clearances Recliner is up against the 280Z belt reel guide, without the protective cover. Probably won't be keeping the stock belts. I'll leave the trim off until I figure that out. up against the ledge, pretty much tangs for retaining outer cover have to be removed, hits the cross frame Placement. As far back as it can sit, cushion is still further forward than the driver's seat Like this, it sits lower than the stock seat cushion , feels comfortable as is.

Sorry didn't see this earlier. It's a countersink bit, I think they are typically 82º, so not aligned with the 37º JIC fittings, but it still works

280Z track mounting differs - putting this here so I don't forget - I may make rails/ brackets to match the 280Z rail location rather than use the stock rail.

Swapped out the ProTunerZ rail today. Old one in foreground Easy swap out. Injectors stay put. 2 -6 AN fittings and the 2 hold downs on the intake. Countersunk the first one (hand cut, no chatter or burrs) ProTunerZ didn't want it back. Oring seats properly now (in the old one)

Took the seats out of the 350Z today, and moved the car into her (my mother) backyard, out of the way for her winter driveway access Have to cut a section of the harness for each seat tomorrow Power, heater & SRS broke the pass seat switch, bent the bracket - seat was behind the car & I backed into it Thankfully, I didn't damage the seat itself Cut off the rail standoffs 2 rivets & 2 spot welds for each leg Assuming these elements are for crash protection - I may want to add them back Put some paint on the ground-down areas, to protect it for now

Found a helpful thread on 350Z seat fitment. Since I've been driving the X1/9 again this past week, with the Honda S2000 seats, I really find the Datsun seats uncomfortable for my lower back issues. My 350Z seats are rough, so while I work on fitting them, I've ordered new leather from Ridies.com. Much more price-friendly than the CanadaSeatSkins that I used for the Volvo seats, and full leather for all panels. Going for Black w/ dk grey perforated inserts, green stitching. All the examples on their site have more contrast, like this

Apologies, I was looking at the return vs return-less aspect of that debate. I don't see any disadvantage to this setup, if that was why you were pointing it out, or because I wasn't getting the point? The one link posted seemed more concerned with carbureted setups, which is a whole 'nother ballgame, IMO. I would expect it would be unwise to use a stock style diaphragm version FPR for such a setup though. Volvo used this setup from the early 90's until the early 2K adoption of in-tank PWM controlled units. Removes the need for additional fuel lines on the motor, and removes the potential heating of the regulator and fuel returning to the tank. I haven't had any heat soak issues since switching to the billet rail and composite injectors. Improved starts, however the starter crank speed has a variable in that equation...

I bought their seat foam + leather upholstery (via their Amazon listings). Took at least 2 months, if I recall correctly. Came from India. Quality is very nice. I will be removing the seats to install 350Z seats, so if you decide you want full leather & new foam, I will be selling the entire seats minus the rails. Note that I added Honda seat belt guides.

Those floor panels look like a really good fit! I bought one of those flanger/hole punch tools - it was essential for the roof junction on my Volvo pickup truck conversion. I used Lord Fusor & a spot welder through the sunroof opening to join it though, no panel distortion that way.

Replacement rail came today. Center port was no different than the first one, so I cut a chamfer with a countersink drill. Just went deep enough that the o-ring compresses without any squeeze-out

Had one of the new LED bulbs fail - the one in the AMP/Fuel started pulsing on/off. Swapped it out after confirming the power, ground & rheostat wiring to the gauge assembly were all not the issue. Interesting that they appear different color cast in the photo - they are all the same bulb. Secondary gauge pod have standard incandescents.

Sorry, Steve, is that an American cultural reference? Being English, perhaps I'm missing it 🤪

Two of my cats disapprove of that joke 😁

Meaning that the mount screws sit on top where they are less visible? Sounds better. I wonder if the mechanic who did mine was the same meathead who did the AC install. Neglected to review any provided directions 😞 Replaced the pass door handle over the weekend, and the belly pan today. I broke my phone last Friday, so no pics of the work

Thanks for the clear detail pics here. I need to remove the gas tank in my 75 to fix the leak that occurs when the tank is full. I figure I may as well remove the vapor tank & do all the hoses, and/or delete it. I've read that Nissan used more than 2 sizes of hose for the lines to/from the tank & canister. Is that correct? As an aside, I also find it odd that they came through the trunk floor with the hoses, instead of in the side well area. Not having dropped the tank, perhaps there is an obvious space limitation that required this routing? Just seems out of character with the overall design flow of the car's mechanical layout & construction. Did you pressure test or otherwise verify the cannister's integrity was solid? I've heard they can leak vapor. I do not have any fumes in the cabin that would suggest I have an issue in that regard. Finally, what brand & thickness of sound matting did you use in the pics above?

That's true - much more room to wire over on the pass side. Perhaps I'll just do that. I was planning on just triggering the AFM signal to switch the stock relay. I don't know what load this timer relay can carry, however it should be sufficient to power the pump for a short duration.