HusseinHolland

No, Factory tach 🙂 I drove the car 15 miles round trip with no tach when I first swapped the HEI module / 12V coil back on Saturday. It was jerky then, I assumed at the time it was because the tank was very low. I don't think it's fuel related, as the symptom does not exist with the stock module & coil setup, it only happened with the HEI setup. It's not a bog, it's definitely a 'cut'. I'll try to observe the wideband controller next time. All ignition connections are firm. The thing is, I did not experience it driving to work an hour ago. I should recheck the ignition timing in case there is a deviation with the HEI, I think someone mentioned that happened for them. What is currently annoying is the heat soak 10-15min restart lean condition, it's still happening even though it's now in the 30-50 degree ambient temp weather. I'm looking at alternative fuel rails, which may mean I want to got to composite injectors with the adaptor bases from Protunerz. Not sure I want to go down that rabbit hole though. Maybe I'll just pop the hood latch to vent it if I know I'm going to be in that situation 🤪

OK - so finally had the time & break in the weather to swap out the coil & module. I did first just plug in the HEI module with the stock coil & ballast, and as expected the tach functioned normally with the stock 2.2K ohm resistor. I swapped out the coil and ballast bridge, and tried the 5K ohm resistor bridge. Tach operated briefly, then dropped. I then added a 1K resistor in series with the 5K, and that was better, but tach was still erratic & dropped out after a bit. Added another 10K (9.8K actual, thought I was adding .5K ohm) and with that, the tach smoothed out, held normal idle rpm & revved freely in time with the engine. So, for me, 15800 ohms is the value required. I drove the car to work this evening for my parent-teacher conferences, and I have noticed that there is a noticeable 'jerkiness' on throttle tip-in that is not present with the stock ignition setup. Not sure why that would be, I'll have to see if it persists. I also have not swapped out the generic Standard Motor Part module for the geniune GM module, so it is possible that is the culprit I suppose. Used a 14.8K & 1K in series for the final resistor.

One last question Steve - I'm assuming that the (-) terminal on the relay is the one that requires external ground. Can you verify?

I'm happy with the improved light over the halogens. I bought another pair of them for my old Volvo 🙂

Covers with lights on l Kioto housings arrived, so I have to swap out the Hellas soon.

Ah - thanks, Steve. I di don't look down beyond the bulb listing. So, adjustable is required, or do the non-adjustable in the listings also work?

Problem - with LEDs in the directionals, they don't flash. The Hazard flasher still worked with just the two rear bulbs, that's how I was testing them. As soon as I added the two front, I had no hazard either. I didn't see any mention of issues with the two relays. ....

Thanks for the response. I can check the factory cap. Understood, there are permutations & variances with the tachometers. My resistor is 2.23K ohms, the other poster got his to work using 5K ohm range values, which was my guide. Hopefully the rain will stop at some point today, and I can try this tomorrow after work :)

Volvo suppressor is 220uF only holds continuity for a moment, as you intimated, then goes open I made a few plugin resistors in the 5-5.5k range to test

Rather than start a new thread on the topic, I figured I'd add to this one. 75 280Z CA spec I can't find any threads that actually itemize the hose sizes & lengths needed if one is refurbishing the vapor hoses. I've found sites selling 'kits' for the 240Z. Or, alternatively, eliminate the vapor tank & just have the tank vent to filler neck and vapor line to charcoal canister. Anyone got specifics on either option? I'd like to know I have the correct ID hoses before I do drop the tank.

Question Steve - it was pointed out to me that LED headlamp bulbs put out the heat at the rear - our housings have no venting that would help dissipate that. How long have you used the LED's for? After I heard that, I started looking online - Auxito actually has a blog on it. Now I'm wondering if this is going to become an issue. As an aside I've been in front of cars with the flickering LED's - I didn't know that was a heat related thing, it is truly obnoxious to see in the rear view mirror. EDIT: Re-reading the Auxito listing description, it does say this model has in internal fan - that would make all the diffference. I didn't register that fact in your LED post, but maybe you assumed ppl knew to get ones with the internal fan?

Thing is, Volvo and Fiat used similar primitive ignition systems in the 70's & 80's, and with those, one can check ign. pulse with a test light anywhere on the (-) side of the coil circuit, up to the tach & get a flashing lamp without impacting the system. I don't understand why it is differ on the Nissan, however if you're saying that is normal for this system, I won't look any further into it. I can try the stock Nissan condensor on the (-) side also.

There must be more going on with mine. The fact that adding a test light to the (-) coil terminal disrupts the system seems like a problem to me. I didn't check the suppressor. Volvo used Made In Japan suppressors ((+) side of coil connection), so it should be happy on the car 🤪

This was the post I was recalling - he had a similar issue. Before I switched back to the stock coil & module, I had measured the stock resistor - 2.23K ohms. I added a 2.2K pot in place of it, and tried lowering the resistance - needless to say the tach didn't work. I'll try again with a 5 - 5.5K ohm resistor

Interesting. Fiat has the same issue, since the 70's-80's EFI was also placed on a non-cross flow cylinder head. I added additional shields on mine to protect the injectors, which mounted in a similar fashion. The X1/9 had massive vents in the engine cover though, so that made a significant difference over my 75 280Z. Presumably this was in part the reason for the hood vents on later Z's. Thank you for the pics - seems the center 4 are more prone, unless they just said **** it- blow some air in the general vicinity & hope for the best 🤪

I used an ignition coil suppressor, not really any way to mis-connect it, as you said, lead goes to coil, tab on housing is ground. For whatever reason, hooking up a test light to the coil or to the tach feed in the cabin results in a noticable miss in the ignition. Adding the suppressor to the (-) coil terminal prevented it starting, period. What type of capacitor did you use? For the time being I put the stock system back in place.

So that didn't work out. Adding the condenser, the engine would not start at all. . It shorts out the coil pulse. Checking ignition pulse with the test light the way I would with most systems doesn't work- it actually feels like it's killing the ignition. I'll have to try it again with the regular coil and module and see if it pulses normally.

Duplicate

Many thanks - I'll try adding a condenser - I have a spare from a Volvo - there is one already on the positive side, but I'll leave that one alone.

Reinstalled the 12 volt Volvo coil, and the bypass for the ballast resistor. Plugged in the original HEI module I had installed, and the car started right up. The problem all along to low cranking speed with somehow impacting the spark? Not sure but now it works. Problem is the tach no longer works. Before digging through the whole thread, does anyone know if I have to replace the resistor for a different value or remove it?

Interesting. The issue there is that surface imperfections will show right through. With the Chrome finish I used (I think it is Rustoleum, which he did not test), you can lay it on pretty heavy & it will level out cracks somewhat. The problem as I'm sure you know is that the original chrome foil separates, tears, buckles from the plastic, so unless you remove it all from the base, there will be issues with the surface finish of any product that is such a thin film. I think the nail polish version would be ideal for small details like the console & switch frame edging.

Seems possible - I guess it depends where the vaporization is taking place - it would seem likely that it is more than just in the injector body, as it takes at least a minute (it feels like more) to level off & return to normal. Fiat added an injection cooling fan system to their 80's version of the Bosch L-jet - it had a shroud on the intake with a duct attached to a blower. There was a temp switch on the manifold to trigger the blower on shut down. I think I read some reference to something similar on here, however I've not seen any pics. I can't visualize what a mess that would like like on the L28 EFI.

Indeed - however it will come back in the spring, presumably. It's gonna be a year or so with the stock drivetrain. This is annoying.

I have to clean the covers first, they have my handprints all over them 🤪

Resurrecting this one. I have noticed that with the current higher ambient temps, after driving 15-20 minutes home on the highway (driving spiritedly, probably around 70-75 - speedo isn't accurate, perhaps with the change in profile of 15"tires?) then parking at my Mum's for about 15-20min while I check in on her - I have the symptom described here. I know it's fuel starvation, I can see the AFR's are 16's or higher on the WBO2 controller. So, back in 2014 the general consensus was Bosch 0280150901's (195cc) with a modified rail, or FJ707T (which look to be stock format fitment?) Trying to figure out if I can live with this for a year, or if I need to address it. EDIT - for reference EV1 0280155746 are 195cc