HusseinHolland

Worked on running conduit & 12/2 for the receptacles. Dug a 18" deep 20' trench along the South side for it. Still have to dig a trench along the West side

Yeah - at least the upper balustrade(?) has rotted away, probably more. We are going back in about month to look it over.

Looking at houses around Ithaca, NY. Saw a bunch yesterday & today, one we thought was the most hopeful turned out to have too many structural issues. So far, the one that we like the most is a little on the outskirts of the distance from downtown that we wanted. 1860's, has enough rooms for us & my Mum, but would need some internal re-arranging to give her her own space, which has to be the ground floor. Garage is big enough for me to work with for starters. needs some work on the outside, but nothing crazy. Sits on 4 acres. Still have to look this one over inside, didn't have time for this one today. small building on the left is a smokehouse.

I see that in the product description on their website, however I don't see any info on those as options or what brands would work with them.

They are $65 ea- metal weatherproof boxes & in use covers end up being about $30 ea, then I'd have to buy some sort of secure mounting arrangement, so in the end these seem 'reasonable' 🤪 18" seems to be standard for PVC conduit - so I figured I dig a little deeper, just to make sure I don't run afoul of my town codes.

I'm going to add receptacles along the perimeter of the pad - I figure one along the South edge (fence side) & one on the West (near lamppost). I'll use 12/2 wire, so it's good for 20A Trying to figure out the most practical way to do that without making something that either can be tripped over, or becomes susceptible to water ingress. I was thinking of mounting waterproof boxes with in-use covers on the outer edge of the slab, but that just seems ripe for problems. Searching around I found TayMac makes enclosure posts. This seems like a good way to go - can't be missed & I can't trip over it. Wondering if anyone on here has any experience with such a set up Started the conduit run off the GFCI protected receptacle I already installed. Conduit will be buried approx 2' alongside slab

Been working on a friend's old Volvo, needed a replacement turbo. I had called a contractor last week, to get a quote on the patio/slab behind the garage. Approx 16x20' They were able to come & do it today, so I went ahead & had it done. I'll have to get some fill to grade the ground around it. Have to wait a week before the 350Z can be moved onto it.

SO, in driving long distances in the heavy rain, I found the car handles very well. What I also found is that when I switched to defrost to clear the windshield fogging, the heat comes on. Is that a normal function of the Z system? If so, I'll have to figure out a way around it

Only pic of the Z I have from the trip - in one of the PA tunnels

Dave - the switch contacts were weak - I could start the engine (since the AFM is bypassed when cranking) - hear the pump relay click off & the engine begin to stall, then quickly apply pressure to the AFM contact (cover removed) - and the engine will resume normal operation. I retensioned the AFM contact post to make sure the connection is more consistent. I can observe the switch function now by way of the LED I added. I'll add a pic of that for reference.

Car has run beautifully all the way out to Columbus, OH. about 600 miles so far, mostly 65-70 highway speeds. It has consumed about 1/2 quart oil, which I haven't seen in local/mixed highway driving. Couple of the Fiat race cars at the Fiat Meet One of the older techs at the shop was previously a Volvo guy, and has a 90 740 16V wagon he wants to move out of his garage where it has been stored for th past 18 years. I may have to buy it Needs the head re-installed - he is now physically unable to do the work, hence the desire to see it go to another Volvo guy.

So, car started acting up & cutting out again, of course when my wife was with me. I was trying to get everything ready for the trip to Ohio tomorrow. It seemed like it was the relay block connections again, however I tested the grounds & switched feeds & that was not the issue. I put a test light on the feed signal from the AFM pump switch, and that would come & go in keeping with the car dying. With this, it is quite possible the earlier adaptor base I made from the original relay is in fact OK, and the recent problem has in fact been the AFM switch. So, I tweaked the AFM switch to put a little more tension on the point contact. In addition, I added a LED to the circuit so I can see if the problem recurs. I also added a switch to the circuit, to bypass the AFM pump switch if it fails altogether.

Still have to wait about a week for my abdomen stitches to be removed - so no exercise or strenuous automotive work going on 😞 I primed & painted the fiberglass replacement tail panels. They don't have a defined cut for the chrome area, so I may just leave them grey metallic.

NATS delete for the stock 350Z ECM

Also forgot to add this here - last Nov. ZedHead pointed me to a TechnoToy kit for fitting the short nose R200 into the 280Z, so I could use the 350Z short nose I have (w/LSD), assuming I can figure the axle adaptation. Another design linked by CalZ on HybridZ

I found another wiring issue - I noticed that the driver's seat wasn't working one day, so I swapped out the fuse - that lasted for several days, seat was working fine, then I came back to it about a week later & it was blown again. I swapped out the fuse, and operated the seat reaching over from the passenger side, worked just fine every time. A side issue of my own creation here is that I wired the switched feed to the power seats from the same fuse that governs the Volvo constant idle system - so on at least one occasion that fuse blew instead of the seat fuse, which meant no idle control & stalling condition on decel. Of course THAT happened when the wife was in the car, so now she feels even less safe driving around in the car. I have to rewire the feed so it has no impact on any other circuits. Drove the car again & the fuse blew. So, my weight on the seat was a contributing factor - I thought I had been careful to route the wiring where there would be no contact. I found this (pic below) when I pulled the seat switch. I had already purchased a new one, since I had no idea what spect of the switch was shorting the fuse, so now I have a spare (sleeved the exposed wire). EDIT- Looking through my seat install pics - I'd say the upturned channel lip is the problem.

Car started exhibiting the same symptom as with the original relay - dropping the pump feed & monetarily cutting out. I was afraid that using the original base could lead to issues, so I made a new new from a couple of Volvo relays. I wired in the 3 diodes and a 2ohm resistor. Had incorrectly marked the 86c feed to the coil on the power relay (tied it to 86 as well, NOT good), so I had to redo that corrected wiring Male pin I'm using for 86c is also on the outer left instead of inner left, so a bridge on the relay socket was needed. There are male pins in the 85 location (bottom right) on both bases. I had already made a bridge on the relay sockets, to allow the use of the Fiat version L-Jet relay, so both are connected to the ground circuit. The next problem was that the male pins are shorter length than the ones used for the Datsun/Bosch L-Jet relays, which meant they were not fully seating in the relay sockets. This meant the connections would come & go, took me awhile to figure out that was the problem. I shaved back the base on the relays - that wasn't enough, so I had to shave the small rise around each pin also. That made the overall male pin depth close enough to the factory length. With that, the bases stay properly seated and no connectivity / functional issues with the adaptor after driving it this afternoon.

According to the chart here - 1981 has .745 5th gear quite a range over the years as you pointed out, so if comparing to others, the year does matter

Interesting, thank you for that. That does make it odd that my speed in gear differs from Dave - I'm using the drive gear from the 81 zx 5spd (stock drive gear was quite inaccurate with the 205/50x15's) and checking against GPS it seemed pretty accurate. I will have to reconfirm next time I'm on the highway.

Sample search I found when ClassicZ was down - this problem arises when using the 280Z 4 Spd shifter in the 5 Spd.

Pretty sure the 75 is 3.90 FD

So, after driving the Z on & off this past week, I found that it would pop out of reverse. Earlier today there was no access to ClassicZ, so I did a google search on the topic & found a topic on Zcar, that linked your video on the topic. With that info it was clear that my shifter was not dropping back far enough to engage the reverse detent & have that little shifter play once properly engaged. 2nd & 4th engaged fine, however there was really no play in the shifter that would indicate full engagement even though it hadn't popped out of the forward gears. Final relief on the backside that allowed proper engagement. I removed small amounts & rechecked for engagement. Kept going until no marking was evident on the shifter. I also noted a nick on the front side of the rod, so I relieved that side ever so slightly. frontside relief

No, old concrete. At some point I'll need to pour a new floor at some point.

Got the base plate in, and the smaller plate. I only cut exactly 1.5" off the bottom of the studs, so it was a bitch to get that in under the studs. The large sledge helped. Under foam barrier & butyl Funky piece to fit the corner. Had to shave 1/4 off the whole piece to clear the existing concrete, then used the router to cut a step that tucks under the cross plate, as did the original After that was fitted, I added an extension to the 2x4 plate, then a 7" section of 4x4 to repair the corner post, then a similar length for the visible stud that abuts it. New siding for the 3rd run, Concrete backer for the lower 10" Covered with Protecto-wrap, this stuff sticks to anything. Now I can put up the last pegboard, move everything back , and get moving on the V8 conversion for my Volvo truck.

As Capt. O intimated I have a number of sledges - all were found objects (no handles, 2 I dug out of my yard)- that one was in my Mum's basement. I think it's about 30lbs, perfect for obstinate base plate fitment.