HusseinHolland

OK - so here's the problem: AFR's are way WAY to lean, even when stone cold, it started around 14 & went leaner from there. Normal op temp idle AFR's were 16.5-16.7 range. I disconnected the CIS system, and predictably it made no difference. Regulated fuel pressure is steady @ 36psi, and gets higher as vacuum decreases (when revving the motor off idle). Unplugging each injector in turn, affects the running. I'm going to pull the rail & check for any restrictions.

Now that I have the interior going back in, I finally installed the seat heater switches. Didn't want to drill holes in the console itself, so this was the next best option for me

Found I have another (minor) issue - the T/stat can't be bolted to the console - the threaded section is too short for the depth of the console. I made a face plate using a Volvo 240 part. What I'm going to need is a shouldered nut, basically a top hat.

Center opening gap difference Left to Right Didn't notice with the original center console whether the dash aligned with the uprights. or if its staggered like this EDIT - forgot to add pics with the LED bulbs illuminated AS SteveJ mentioned somewhere the Tach lighting has reversed polarity sockets, so I use conventional bulbs there. Not quite as bright.

So, I installed the console today - and I don't have anything for the forward upper portion to attach to. I had a bracket that I thought was it - but it was just the tie plate that is secured with 2 M5 screws at the base of the center opening, that the HVAC control sits on. I can't figure out from the part catalog what would even constitute the support, unless it's the 'Radio Bracket" 96915 - N4200, #6 in the diagram Not really happy with the shifter boot fit - the opening is way too large for the stock shaft. Too much work to cut & resew.

It's Leaf Green with regular black interior - I didn't get custom stitching when got the seat upholstery

Also added a MilkFab 3 gauge pod and a cupholder to mine

It's a shame that so many ppl don't think to add pics that would clarify so much. I installed a leather boot in mine, getting ready to put the console back had to cut a clip for the rear, the full width don't fit the aftermarket leather boot

Perfect. I'm also replacing my center console with a new piece, and the original was missing all the mount hardware. I looked in the fiche - and had to 'assume' the forward screws were self tappers, since they are not described or assigned an item #

Finally getting the Vintage dash back in. Fit is very good, however there does seem to be excessive gap on the vertical surrounding the center console trim. I'm wishing I hadn't precut the excess vinyl to match the factory in this area. I'll add a pic later to illustrate. I left much of the excess material in the glove box area, I'll deal with that when I'm actually ready to install the glovebox. Have to deal with all the HVAC ducting before that happens

Forgot to add the door glass rollers (ZcarDepot) went in - another thing I didn't know I was missing

Yes, good point. I will do that next, before messing with the fuel rails. I can just disable it entirely (after warming the engine) by unplugging the module. When the IACV is shut, minimal air can bypass, so plugging those shouldn't be necessary for testing the 2.5-3K rpm condition

There is an ongoing issue with the HEI setup - I have the stock system in it now, as the last time I switched it back to HEI, I had the no start/slow crank condition return. I assumed the battery was low/ drained from all the start attempts, so I trickled charged it over a day to rejuvenate it, but that wasn't the cause. In any event, I ordered a genuine AC Delco HEI module, so eventually I will swap that out & see what happens. Since it starts/ runs as one would expect with the stock module, I'm leaving ti until the load condition is resolved. The only system aspect left to revisit is the fuel delivery at the rail, to check the FPR and tubes for any debris. The Volvo system takes the TPS idle signal for base line. The CIS Module uses an ignition pulse taken from the negative side of the coil to know what the engine speed is. If it were somehow interfering with the stock EMS, I would expect it would be across the board, however I can disconnect that wire from the coil to confirm that. I have the WBO2 controller ready to be connected to the car, just have to wire the power/ground - that is the main thing delaying the restart / testing at this point, don't want to foul the new WBO2 sensor. Hopefully the rain will stop by Sunday, and I can get back to it.

Thanks for the input, CO. Yes, timing only fluctuated in conjunction with rpm. Yes, either ignition module/setup I don't see it being related to the BCDD block off, that only caused a high base idle condition, there's nothing in there that could be flapping around. The CIS system is fully operational - the easy test is to crimp off the feed hose from the low vacuum external side of the tb, and that will negate the IACV, dropping the idle to whatever base value is set at the butterfly & idle compensation (bleed) screw. As soon as the hose is released, if the system is functional, the IACV will surge the idle to around 1200, then settle at the controlled value of approx 850. Turning on the AC raises the idle about 100 rpm, so I'd have to say it's fully operational. I did all the mods without the dash in place (so no wiring to EMS, etc), so I did not run the engine after each set of mods as I would normally do to function test the work. So, fuel rail hoses, HEI mod, CIS additions, were all done without post-testing each individually. Basically, Murphy's Law has struck me for not following my usual protocol 🤪 I've almost got the dash/console back together, so once that's complete (mostly need to wire the WBO2 controller, so I don't contaminate the LSU9 WBO2 sensor) I will run it again & see what's up. The reason I'm leaning to a restriction is in part due to the fact there were hose particles evident when I removed the lines, and currently the system pressure does not drop off within the usual time frame (typically within a hour), it holds pressure for HOURS. I'm just going over the things I fiddled with to double check my work.

Apologies first of all for cluttering your thread with my problems! I'm still going to remove the rail & flush it. I have had situations where regulated pressure indicated was in range, but volume under demand was not. I'll have to see if I can record line pressure somehow on this system. Sorry for the confusion with the coils & ballast. I am NOT using the ballast with the HEI setup, that was when I switched back to the stock setup to test. The coil is relatively new (old stock), however I did try a couple others I have, no change The 125A breaker is on the starter feed, so the current draw with dwell/timing out must be very high. I can switch it out for a higher rating, but that won't resolve the cause. I've left this alone for now so I can get the interior /dash reassembled. I've also installed the WBO2 for the AEM controller, so I can see what the AFR's are doing when the symptom manifests.

wired my relay feed to the L terminal via a new charge indicator bulb. Circuit works exactly as @SteveJ described. repurposed rear defogger lamp for charge indicator Bulb holder w/spade terminals

The point of getting the car running right now, was so I could vacuum & charge the AC system, to make sure there are no leaks - so I can put the dash back together & reassemble the interior... I found that one crimp I had made was insufficient. The high side line fitting to the orifice tube leaked with the system under pressure. I re-crimped it, and was able to then fully charge the system. Pressures seem OK for an 80º afternoon, and it blows cold. Condenser fan doesn't come on until high side hits about 250, but then drops pretty quickly. Anyway, I now know the AC system is functional. blurry pic of recrimp. Fortunately it was a fitting I could access & didn't have to remove the hose to do the job.

When I tested it with a timing light & held the rpm steady at 2500-3K, the timing would surge slightly in time with rpm drop, but that would seem pretty normal, no? If there is a flow restriction in the feed side of the rail, that would also do it. I've seen cases where a 'flap' of debris moves & chokes flow under high demand. I'm only thinking of this now because when I pulled the feed hose, there were particles(old hose breaking down, perhaps) in the inlet to the metal feed tube. I'll put a noid light on it, to see if the EMS is dropping out , does also seem plausible. Trying to go over systems I have specifically altered in some way that could be the cause.

That is correct. Since it's not due to the HEI module conversion, the only other obvious thing I had worked on was replacing the fuel lines at the rail. It seems plausible that there is debris in the line(s) that chokes the flow under higher demand. Regulated fuel pressure is good, but that doesn't mean the volume is there. Can't think of anything else I have done that could cause the issue at this point.

So the issue with the ballast was that without the center post, there is no continuity. repaired, then reassembled in outer casing Started right up....but.... still hunts 2500-3000K rpm with stock module setup. So, moving on from ignition as the cause, most likely at this point would seem to actually be hunting due to lack of fuel volume - possibly crud in the fuel rail, since I did have all that apart to change the hoses. YT vid of symptom

I put the rollers & brackets (from ZcarDepot) in some time ago - forgot to update. As far as the fitting moldings go, Silvermine has been useless. His sugeestion is to gorilla glue the molding to the the door, after you (somehow) bend them to fit the compound curve of the door without damaging them. I will never buy from him again, that's for sure.

Would have been nice if the CSV had been ECU governed. Volvo didn't get that until the adoption of Bosch LH-2.2 in the early 80's, but they never used earlier L-Jet air-flap meter configurations . They used D-Jet and K-Jet before that, which also used the TTS like the Datsun.

I definitely had none of these particular concerns prior to messing with the ignition system. When cranking (with reluctor wires flipped), it felt like a motor that is way out of time, so perhaps that was causing the excessive drain. As it stands, with stock parts (and no increased voltage to ballast when cranking) within a short crank time, the voltage at the ballast is dropping to around 9v, according to my voltmeter.In any event, it won't start as is. So, I think I'll remove the ballast to see if I can fix it, and swap back the HEI connection & later coil, as at least I can run the engine at idle speeds that way & check the CSV operation again.

So I have discovered. It appears the only point to the #21 connection is to allow circuit continuity check, per the FSM. I tested my TTS today, and I have ground between 46 & the t/stat housing with a cold (uncranked) motor.

Swapped the coil & transistor module back in, however the middle post on the ballast snapped off when I did the conversion. Without that increased voltage when cranking, the engine is not starting. I'll have to see if I can get inside the ballast to add the intermediate post back tomorrow. In the meantime, I think I have to assume the SMP HEI module I bought is defective, the wiring is definitely correct. I've ordered a genuine AC Delco D1906 module to replace it.