HusseinHolland

I put the Volvo test values in my post above 😁 8500-11500 @ 68ºF 770-1320 @ 176ºF

Minor things after work today. Temps still in the 90's & humid - not pleasant working outside. Made the harness extension for the CSV & bridge harness for the TPS to incorporate the signal wire to the CIS module. Next I'll need to pull the fuel injector rail & replace all the fuel hoses. I spent an hour figuring out if I could fit the Volvo FPR pod on the right side near the filter. Not going to work with the existing layout, the angles are all too acute, it would end up stressing the fittings on the pod itself, which is plastic. I'll have to think a little more about that. The only reason I'm bothering is I'd rather rework that while I have the rail off.

Thank you, CaptO :) Any chance you can overlay the 028 values? I have no idea if the curve is similar, even though the values greatly differ. Those two I listed are basically it for all Volvo K-Jet, Fiat L-Jet & Volvo LH2 (either white or blue contact housing). LH2.4 & newer use a 2-path sensor with the same form factor, but black contact housing. I don't know about other marque applications.

On this note - I have to search through my old Volvo "greenbooks" - the FSM's typically display resistance curves for the various sensors used with the changing EMS's from K-Jetronic in the 70's thru the various permutations of LH-Jetronic that run into the early 90's. There would be at least 4 different ECT's, and the values of them are definitely not even close. The two I have at hand are 0 280 130 028: 8500-11500 @ 68ºF 770-1320 @ 176ºF and 0 280 130 023 (or 026): 2100-2900 @ 68ºF 270-390 @ 176ºF substantially different values.

Only had about an hour after school today, so I worked fitting the CSV to the TB, and figuring out the VC vent/breather setup to the TB The Volvo CSV uses an o-ring to seat, rather than a gasket, so I countersunk the hole in the TB to 14mm, to allow an injector o-ring to seat snugly in there after that I worked on the vent/breather. I couldn't see a clean way to route the hose the long way around, as the factory layout runs, so I doglegged it & I'm running it down to the inside of the TB, clear of the linkage. EDIT - flame arrester is located inside straight section, not at upper elbow The thing about doing it this way, the #1 exhaust runner is exposed in that area, for whatever reason Nissan didn't make the pretty extensive heat shield come that far forwards. Since I don't want the vent hose to get crispy in the heat, I made a stainless steel additional shield, attached to the factory one. 5" length, about 2.75" deep, with a 3/4" flange adding SS M6 rivnuts fitted now the breather is protected somewhat

Thank you again for your invaluable input Ron. This is the 3rd resistor, next to the Transistor - looking up the 4 band, it appears to be 2M ohm, unless I'm reading the chart incorrectly Replaced the transistor (take 2) it's running now 🙂

I did, and needless to say it didn't work. I'll change it out for a new one later. I was checking the various values of the other measurable items - it appears there are two 670ohm and one 2m ohm resistors. Zener still drops voltage to 4.4v using a 9v battery. Hopefully I didn't cook anything b sides perhaps the transistor by hooking it up incorrectly. My coil resistance values are the reverse of what you posted though?

So, I replaced the transistor this morning - BUT - I got myself kerfuddled on leg orientation; between looking at the circuit board, transistor orientation, and the schematic from Ron I neglected to note the schematic says "view from underneath". As a result, I have the pin orientation al wrong What it needs to be

Coil (-) connection. Red-White, since that's what Volvo uses. Blue is usually (+), glad I checked what Nissan uses for (-) Drilled (9/16") & tapped the intake for 3/8" NPT elbow fitting Made a support plate for the 3517886 IACV. No room for a bolt to come through the plate from above, so I welded a nut on the backside & put in a short stud to retain the IACV bracket. Re-tapped the vacuum port for the charcoal canister to 1/8" NPT & plugged it. The IACV hose passes right over it Moved charcoal canister vacuum port to rear of plenum, using quick connect with nitrile line With the IACV placement sorted, I wired the 3 pole connection and the 2 pole for the ECT, and the ground connections at the intake CSV placement in TB to get a clean run on the CSV feed hose, I'm going to flip the CSV. Converting to barb fitting. Using a different CSVB than above, I have 3 (Volvo) variants with differing offset connectors Made the block off plate for the B.C.D.D, with 3/8" NPT port for the valve cover vent. Used the B.C.D.D base gasket as the template for the mount holes shaped somewhat, brass elbow fitted. Used HondaBond to seal the plate to TB. B.C.D.D port redrilled to match the greater breather vent ID above, since the above port is now dedicated to only idle control Breather vent elbow fitted below will clear the TPS once reinstalled. Have to figure out a clean way to unify the valve cover port hose with this 78 280Z AAV & Breather vent hose layout for ref.

Added a heat shield for the AC lines

I'll start with just the standard mixture adjustment, don't want to mess with the clock spring unnecessarily. I read that long thread on the pro & cons of messing with that...

Since I need to pull the rail to replace seeping fuel hose, I'm thinking I'll just switch to the 3bar FPR (Volvo/VAG style) and keep the current injectors. It's "only" a 2psi difference, assuming mine are even flowing the spec 17.9lb/188cc. I need to revise the delivery to the rail in prep for the V6 conversion anyway. If I recall, the AFM can be tweaked to increase/decrease fuel volume. I recall on the Fiat (which had the same system) that was a thing. I'll have to research that on here, I'm sure someone has played with it. I'll start will just the mixture adj., since that may be enough. I'll have the WBO2 on there, so I can monitor actual AFR's.

Whilst I've been adding wiring for my AC install, I've also been wiring the Bosch CIS. It was used on Volvos in the mid 80's with K-JET. V6 version - has correct ECU with 6 cyl ignition pulse. (B) Benzine 2.8l (F) Fuel Injection my wiring Bosch 0280 220 008 - Leerlaufregler = Idle Control combined wiring harnesses for AC & CIS module will be tucked up in right corner removed the throttle body. Made it easier to access the water housing to redrill & add a 12x1.5mm Timesert for the ECT Lots of grease on the drill & tap, picks up the shavings ECT 0280 130 028 (VO 1306024) installed IACV will go something like this. CSV will move to throttle body, where air port is now. CSV port will be used for the IACV return Flange offset/bolt spacing is identical. Edit - Volvo uses an o-ring for the CSV - have to check the port ID in the TB

More wiring. Realized I have to remove the compressor as I didn't drain the mineral oil - I forgot that this compressor (TM15D) was setup for R12. Have to refill with Pag46 wiring overview Tucked behind hood catch, secured to firewall to make sure no issues with throttle linkage. Low pressure cutout on accumulator in foreground Harnesses routed alongside stock wiring. Have to secure the 2 relays

Ah - so I assume I need to alter the post to board configuration (swap b & c?), since I bought 2N3904 transistors. My 75 is CA market - so if you need any of the 75 smog-specific components I may be able to help 🙂 I'll check the coil values also.

After I worked on the clock this morning, I worked on the AC wiring harness today, in conjunction with the harness needed for the Bosch Constant Idle Speed (CIS) system 2 10 pole connectors (one tucked under the hood catch, for CIS) & one 4 pole. The 4 pole covers the AC control signals. AC cutoff & AC cond. fan relays will go here. The details on the ID tag weren't legible anyway wiring inside. Made sure it doesn't interfere with the heater fan box CIS module will go up here K&N (RU-4650) filter arrived, so I put that in. Required since the AC condenser fan interferes with the stock airbox fitment. I have a plethora of 2.75" & 3" silicone couplers & aluminum pipes from various Volvo projects, so I used a 2.75" - 3" elbow coupler & 3" bend to fit the 3" inlet filter. Made sure the filter surface area far exceeds the demands of the engine displacement at redline (calculator for that) hopefully wrap up the bay side of the wiring tomorrow.

It doesn't stay running. If I push start the wheel it doesn't continue to run if powered, I don't think there is any difference in spin duration powered or unpowered.

Hello Ron Thank you for the advice. I've done the 3 caps, and after that I got a twitch from the balance wheel. so I will see if I have an NPN transistor to try. I missed refurb boards on your site, so if this doesn't work, I will be hitting you up for a board. I want to keep this clock if possible.

I have to assume it's a ceramic cap, no polarized marking. I used the Aluminum electrolytic caps, to be safe. With it all back together , the winding energizes momentarily. I checked the spindle centering (because I dislodged it during disassembly ) and that the coil winding is pretty much centered in the spool. I assume it doesn't need 12v to trigger it, since it runs off 5v.... Zener shows approx 5v output, so I don't think that is bad...

That's the problem with RockAuto - if you have repeat failures of a component, they count it against your account standing, which affects how they treat you overall. I had this issue whenI had 2 pairs of one brand of shock fail within a year of each other.

Enlarged the existing firewall spare hole near the heater ports to 30mm, and added another 30mm hole below it. One will be for the AC-related wiring & Bosch CIS system, the other will be spare for when I do the V6 conversion at some point. Using color coded wiring I've salvaged from a Fiat X1/9 and from a variety of Volvos figuring out suitable layout/routing. Have to remove the water port & drill & tap the old EGR sender port to 12x1.5 for the CIS ECT. I have various waterproof 2.3mm terminal/connector housings to use for the firewall connections

So, I went through my stash of components & found I have a Tantalum .22uf cap, so I may as well use it instead of a plain aluminum cap also dug out my work station so I can hopefully see wtf I am doing also have some zener diodes, so I can replace that also if need be

No, no movement at all. Thanks for the vid - I have wicking braid & a fine tip soldering iron I haven't used for many years - I used to solder chip pads into 90's Volvo ECU's in order run programable chips, but that was many years ago, and I have had to wear prescription glasses since 2012. I have to dig out my light table/magnifier so I can be careful with the coil winding, so thanks for the caution there.

Yes - across the I/O board connections - when I connected a 9V battery to test it, I register 9V across the circuit with my multimeter. Another electronics guy said the caps dry out & fail. His suggestion is to first replace the 3 caps on the circuit board. What did you do? EDIT - when I saw your post, I only registered the 2nd half, after your quote. So, yes, I'll do the caps first & go from there.

Thank you - so, did you just replace all the capacitors, or start with a particular one? No idea how one would circuit test a capacitor, if it's possible?