HusseinHolland

Yes - stone dead. I seem to have continuity across the circuit, but perhaps that's not the key. The mechanical aspect seems tobe all intact, no binding, etc. the shaft with magnetic(?) weight/wheels spins freely & will oscillate if manually activated. I'd really like to fix it rather than gut & install more modern internals(did that with the Fiat X1/9). Appreciate any input Captain O!

Found a thread on a 77 280 that showed rebuilding a Quartz clock, and referenced rebuild instructions (for the earlier type like mine?) without any link EDIT - found this thread linked searching on another forum - says 70-78Z, however I can only assume they never took apart a 75 version as it looks zero like the pics of the motorized version he shows (later in the thread) & describes repairing Before anyone mentions it, I'm not paying ZClocks $351 for a rebuild. circuit diagram posted on other forum - don't know if its accurate Has anyone found a common failure / repair point for this? I con't see anything blatant with the mechanism or the circuit board, but it doesn't work when I apply test voltage by way of a 9V battery

Put the controls & evap box back in, connected the AC lines. installed the capillary tube in the center of the evaporator, inserted to full depth. The old one was shoved about an inch into the duct side of the core, not doing much in the way of registering core temp. As the PO said, the AC never worked very well. Need to get the AC circuit wired so I can wrap that aspect up. fixed the evap box drains by adding a elbow that is rear-facing, so air won't blow up the tubes when in motion.

interesting - there are wires taped up in the front crossmember /valance harness, I've not examined them, but presumably those would be for fog lamps then. I don't see any mention of them in the 75 FSM though. Another thing I've found - the harness & bulb holder I've circled seems to be for the low Fuel indicator lamp (yellow/blue , blue) = which I don't have. I'm assuming it was a small square lamp in the console below the radio, but that's where the AC thermostat was installed, so I guess they simply discarded the holder 😞

Thanks Steve - as far as I can tell, everything has to come through the Cx connectors. I would pull from there before adding load to the ignition switch. I have a good supply of 6.3mm crimp terminals & housings - both Volvo and Fiat used them back in the day 🙂 My main issue is the Nissan wiring diagrams make zero sense to me - I can't read the connector pinouts for the life of me. I'm assuming what's shown is either side of any given connector - C-2 in this case. Can't tell which side is body & which is harness. I'm used to diagrams that indicate the pin numbering - since this is 14pole - the diagram (for Volvo for instance) would indicate 1-14, so it would be easier to negotiate the diagram & corresponding harness wires/colors. It's gonna take a while to get used to these.

Thank you Steve, found it! Also used for spark advance/retard (that I don't have). I'll leave those alone for now. Going to have to memorize the wiring color convention translation 🙂 Clock & Cig lighter (LW = Blue/White) appear to be constant (30) vs. switched (15) power sources, so neither would work for the 3-pod gauges (WBO2 controller, Oil temp, Volt) I'm adding. OK with those (Red/blue Green/white) wires, all four were bundled & taped inside the harness conduit, so I assume they all go to AT related indication. So, I presume I could repurpose those for gauge illumination, looking through the illumination wiring, they do not appear to be conditional upon other parameters.

Thank you for the reply - those colors correspond to the connector in question. I would rather the Voltmeter be on a circuit that shows the state of the battery, than on a circuit that is subject to transient changes, so I need to check that. The AEM WBO2 controllers do not draw much current (from the manual): EDIT - I do have another couple wiring questions - these two sets of wires are also in the center console area. and this unused 6 pole connector is next to the ignition terminal block any ideas as to the purpose? I'm wondering if I can repurpose the 4 wires in the 6 pole connector, but I have no clue what circuit they belong to

Removed the heater box stripped to replace the foam on the door (and clean) the other thing I've been avoiding is the holes they made for the evaporator drains -the ARA unit has a drain on each side. So, they punched a 1/2" forward facing hole on each side of the tunnel, apparently with a pick. The only way to address it is to drill new larger (30mm) holes that will accept a grommet for the drain tubes rot pass through primed & painted after that I put the heater box back in In removing the control panel I found this I need to address - the fan speed gear is cracked

Going to assume the harness with cut blue is the radio harness. Everything else is accounted for, except for the 6 pin plug with small spades (edit - 3 wire blue variations is power antenna harness) I don't seem to have anything that connects here, one wire was cut & a fused line was added. Don't know what for. I'm going to assume again it was radio related, as no other accessories have been added to the car by the PO

Still plugging away at the AC components. Condenser in, High side attached, made the #8 compressor line next I made sure the AC service equipment could attach to the line fitting, there is plenty of clearance off the heat shields Before I did the low side to the compressor, I took care of the old PCVC hose. Volvo PCV hose for a 740 has the correct end ID's - just not the correct offset of the 90º ends, so I cut it in half & re-oriented it. Clamped after confirming fit was good (not shown) then I made the low side hose from accumulator to compressor, has a 90º splice fitting to keep routing clean added another M5 rivnut to the heart shield to add a support clamp for the new line Had to add a second retain screw for the bulkhead fitting, so it would stay put when tightening the AC hose fittigns Just have to finish cleaning the heater box, then I can install the evaporator & draw down the system to vaccum test. Still have to wire the system & condenser fan circuit

Reviewing your idea - I'm not sure adding a (relatively) bulky bridge harness behind the 3 pods make sense. The dash harness is so neat & tidy from the factory, I'm loath to mess with it's layout 🙂 Those wires feed in via one of the C connectors, so it would seem to make more sense to tap or bridge into the harness before it enters the dash. The gauges I'm adding are in the console, not in the dash. I'll look for where the switched blue wire is located in the C connectors, the Voltmeter does not use a constant feed like the Ammeter. Nah, I want to fix the stock clock if possible, I prefer the old analog display clocks.

Going to piggy-back off this old thread rather than make a new one - the goal for me is to add a Voltmeter, (three gauge pod, replacing radio - I need to add a WBO2 in prep for the V6 conversion) not replace the stock ammeter though. Trying to figure out which wire in the dash harness would make sense to tap into, to get an accurate charging voltage value. Something from the Voltage regulator would seem to make sense, however I have a hard time cross-referencing these old line diagrams against the schematics. Any pointers? I'm assuming the C-x connectors are the ones at the fuse/relay panel

Much rain today, so only small amounts accomplished First, I had to deal with the upper left rad mount. With the AC high side line placed directly in front of the bolt, there would be no access for rad removal without discharging the AC. Not a good plan, pretty much guaranteeing Murphy's Law will strike. So, I drilled out the rad fixed nut, and added an M8 rivnut to the bulkhead, so that one bolt is accessed from the bay. Did mean I had to remove a bunch of stuff to get the rivnut tool in there. Figured out the condenser to rad sealing. Foam on the verticals, rubber seal along the horizontal lip. Had enough of a window to prep, prime & then later paint the nose panel, before I get everything back together. After that I worked on mounting the AC fan to the condenser. I previously used 2 of these on my X1/9, they don't flow the claimed CFM, however it's enough for this purpose, and this will also go away with the V6 conversion anyhow. Added M5 rivnuts to secure the fan. Had to add an additional plate to make it work. added waterproof AMP/TE connector, 2.3mm terminals also wired the Trinary switch, used a Sumitomo 4 pole connector here

I'll take a deeper look through your thread, looks like you are going whole hog on that!

Hello Matthew - Loved the bracketed you worked up for your HVAC install, very clean work! Couldn't see any pics with wiring, but that's OK. In my case it's not one wire as with the original setup, as there is also a Trinary switch added that is used for high press cutoff. I didn't mention it, however I'm also adding a Volvo (Bosch) Constant idle speed system they used back in the 80's with K-Jet V6 applications, prior to using Bosch LH2.xx systems. That requires approx 11 wires to pass from the cabin to the intake.

reworked the mount plate, set all holes 1.5" below original; had to add an ear for the rear lower mount point. back in place, with earth strap for compressor compressor in place. Belt could be 25mm shorter, but still have enough range as it is belt alignment and clearance all around looks good With that aspect done, I worked on the condenser mounting & high pressure hose fitting. Low press hose will be shorter made standoffs (set 1.5" off the bulkhead) to secure the condenser, one with 3 M4 screws on the right, 2 separate ones one the left; upper with one screw, lower with two. about an inch along the top. I will make seals to fill the space along the top, and down the sides of the condenser. rolled the lip in the bulkhead to make sure the high side line doesn't chafe

Touched up the silver edging Test fitted the compressor & mount. It will have to be raised age least an inch. Rear lower mount sits on PS rack. Stock Datsun AC belt length will be OK (13x875). Have to figure out the best place to drill through for a harness for the AC stuff

I bought a 10 pack (white) of these today - specifically because they indicate they use the same polarity as a DC bulb, and because you said they work with the dimmer. I personally dislike intensely the extreme brightness of LED bulbs, so being able to dim them without adding an extra circuit that makes them dimmable is essential. The other ones (Kieurot) linked do not appear to be polarized, and appear to be on the long side, based on the pic provided

Worked on the AC lines from evaporator to firewall, sealing the box, and sealing the ductwork to the box. Fitted the dash frame to check all fitments have to crimp the fittings sealing foam for lines exiting the box closed cell foam to seal box to frame attachment test fitted evaporator box & dash frame gap around duct housing Even worse on the right added a flange to mate with the Nissan duct, so I could seal the gap. Factory evaporator box must be taller & narrower. extra thin foam on top half, due to angle of evaporator box Added thick foam to the duct, to seal against the flange then added thin foam to seal the facia vent to the duct sealed now

More work on the dash frame - primed & painted after fitting the right side brace. Test fitting with Evaporator box, duct & control facia

Had a little time to work on the dash today, so I put the frame in the car to figure out the right side support brace Left side brace sits right up against the box Right side - definitely was removed due to Evaporator set the glovebox in place, to check clearance outside the evaporator box - none Used a aluminum ruler to make a brace I'll add an angle bracket back to the dash frame, to attach the brace to frame back out to finish up the angle bracket for the brace & add spot welds to the existing structure Going to replace the fusebox with an MTA 15 ATC fusebox, and a (4) relay panel l

That explains why they fit so nicely then - interesting that someone put them on a Volvo 240 😄

Finished the compressor mount . Tacked in place

Pulled my dash during the week, today I stripped the frame The right center support was cut off - I assume due tot he aftermarket AC evaporator box. I'm going to have to figure out how to make a new one. I'll install the stripped frame over the HVAC to see how I can add one back. I'll also add some more spot welds in-between the existing welds to reinforce it. I'd like to make sure my new dash says unstressed as possible. The construction & assembly on these Datsuns is very nice. Harnesses properly secured, everything well organised, very tidy indeed!

Made the additional support bracket for the heat shield, to account for the additional weight of the accumulator & hoses After that I got started on the AC compressor mounting Datsun compressor on top in stock offset position - I want the new compressor to sit back& use the outer pulley, so I set the new compressor on the inside of the existing bracket to compare offset The belt won't align as is - so I have to move the compressor forward just about a 1/4" inch. That meant I had to cut off the existing bracketry & only made use of the back plate aspect tack welded the Volvo bushing mounts, checking alignment as I went 4 of the five in place - the last I need to have to compressor mounted on new bushings before I weld that one in place