HusseinHolland

5/8 Stainless pipe for the heat pipe along the block, & bead roller tool arrived, along with the bulkhead fitting I'm going to use 5/8" hose barb to 10AN bay side fittings As an aside, I had to remove the belly pan to do this work, and decided to repair the torn ear & reinforce the other 8

Actually it's easier than that - I heated the shafts until lightly glowing red , then dunk in used engine oil bath & leave them until completely cool. Makes a hell of a smoke cloud. New upper bulb seal arrived (@jfa.series1) , so I finished up the hatch outer drip rail sealing. I used a short section of washer fluid hose to join the bulbs

Got the bracket & motor back in the cowl, and rewired for the Honda Motor. I found that one hand can be fit behind the bracket from the right side to get the linkage arm nut back on the wiper motor. I decided to cut off the Datsun connector as those small pins just seem iffy for the load of the wiper motor, given their antiquity. I added lengths of same color wire to extend the stock harness through the cowl, used a Volvo firewall grommet, and then added the Honda (Yazaki 58XS) connector and female pins. BLK, BLU-R, Y,Y-BLK, BLU-Y. Y-G is unused. Solder joints are a bad idea - so I bought a large number of crimp splices some time back. Color-keyed wiring came from my old 80's X1/9 parts car. I removed the entire dash harness before junking it. double shrink wrapped I noticed that there is extra weather-strip glue under the seal - I'll have to get that off I attached the wires without the harness first, to just check the mapping from Datsun to Honda indicated in the earlier post The wipers worked as they should - interval, low and high, parks as it should, so I put the wires into the connector Moved harness routing over to the left & clipped it to the cowl lip Put some butyl over the harness feed throughs, since I don't have the plastic sheath for the whole affair arms & new 18" blades installed checked the washer nozzle adjustment

OK - I'll pay attention to that - it appears that B & E pass through the relay in the diagram, so I'll have to pay attention to the actual connections at the relay. What I have to do is overlay the Nissan diagram with either the Volvo or Fiat ones I made to figure out which connections correlate, since they all use different markings on the column switch & relay terminals

@SteveJ - thank you for your time - that does save me some back & forth 🙂 So, just to clarify, the 'relay' on the motor is considered an integral part of the motor as far as the diagrams go, they serve as the switching component (illustrated in the diagram above) built into most later wiper motors.

Thanks for the input, Steve. The diagram is pages 66-68 in the BE section (75 FSM) interval sequence. Interval relay shown in center, no indication of the extra parts on the wiper motor There is no need to m oddity the switch. All one needs is to set the switch to interval, turn it off, turn it back on after desired number of seconds and the relay holds that time lapse. I just have to figure out how to mesh the Bosch style relay connections with the Nissan panel, removing the Nissan relay

Made a template for the wiper motor mount & drilled & cut the Datsun mount bracket to fit. I offset it so the park position is a close match to the original testing placement again - clears the cowl OK - no contact here bracket etched & primed hardware all prepped as well I put the linkages back in with the base seals and new caps, but I'm assuming I'll have to remove it & attach to the bracket & motor first - I was not able to separate the original in -situ. Any comments on that aspect?

The one I bought off eBay (identical to ZcarDepot's image) was off a 98 Acura Integra (complete with linkage for $42), and apparently fits 96-98 Integra and 92-95 Civic also

I thought I saw that one - but I missed the post that gave wiring cross ref for the motor (ZcarDepot listed one is the same as what I bought) I don't want the stock Nissan relay. The VAG 99 is 'infinitely" variable delay. Once you've used it, its difficult to use a stock interval setup typical of older cars. What's odd to me is all the stuff attached to the Datsun motor - I don't see those components in the diagram, unless that is the interval relay, but that's non-sensical since the manuals show it in the relay panel

Yay! It still wasn't working for me yesterday.

Now that I have the cowl prepped, and the Datsun linkage repaired & lubed, I'm doing the Honda wiper motor conversion documented HERE Reference thread regarding reverse polarity park 75-specific wiring post There's also another link somewhere for the AtlanticZ 'how to fit" PDF So, the big Q for me is how this all ties together. The FSM BE overview & wiring (page BE-62 & BE-68) for 75 shows the interval relay. The intermittent amplifier is shown on overview BE-6 and wiring BE-68. It is not shown on the flow diagrams on BE-66-67, unless I'm missing something. It's unclear to me, even after reading the function overview on BE-60, what exactly it's for besides the reverse park business. Maybe that's all it is. Because I'm a glutton for punishment, I want to add the VAG "99" interval relay to this - so my brain is exploding right now trying to overlay all the wiring permutations. I think I'll start from the basis of the 75- specific diagram, since they have figured out basic functionality & go from there.

Worked on the wiper transmission this evening, after finishing the cowl cover. I also glued the cowl seal in place. For that, I added closed cell foam where the original was clearly chafing and/or vibrating & wearing the paint I stripped the wiper pivots, one required filing in order to remove the bearing housing, looked like it had been twisted with vice grips I then removed all the rust on the shafts, and heated & oil-blacked them acid dipped the bearing housings to remove rust from the steel (WTF??) bushings after that I lubed all the pivot bushings (brass) and greased the bearing housing with marine grease. There were originally felt collars around each linkage pivot to retain lubrication, only one remained & that fell apart when I cleaned everything up. just have to chase the mount threads in the bearing housings, then I can mod the motor mount plate for the Honda wiper motor, rewire the unit & install it all back in the cowl & close that up.

Since I'm new to the Z world, I searched for factory & repro parts sources online & found ZcarDepot along with several other sites. They were the only one (besides MilkFab, but they are specialty items) that responded very promptly to email questions, and also to order modifications (which has happened several times now, as I have found I missed one thing or another to complete a job).

@Captain Obvious Nice work! Any chance you have a summary list of components & MY vehicle that they came from? I'd like to investigate removing that convoluted linkage and the seemingly overly complex TB setup. Is the TB you used compatible with the stock TPS or did you use an alternate for that also? I'm surprised the 4cyl TB was sufficient ID, but maybe the Z one is way undersized (like the exhaust)?

I'm going to keep the heater valve in the cabin - I want to convert to AN bulkhead fittings for the bayside hoses. In part so that when I do the drivetrain conversion (at some future date) it will be easier to modify, same as the AC line fittings I'm going to get rid of the long flapping hose & put a section of 5/8 SS pipe (approx 18") which will be bolted to the block in the existing harness attachment points. I'll be bead -rolling the pipe for a tight hose fit

Finished the cowl paint & put the new cowl cover grommets in place. Tomorrow I can glue the cowl seal in place

My washer pump was DOA, along with all the hoses to & from the jets. I decided to fix it all while I have the cowl apart I have stashes of Volvo parts, so I made a Volvo (VDO) pump fit. These were used for all Volvo 700/900 series from 83-98, so readily available. Later models use a large inlet that plugs directly into the tank, so none of those will work. Only had to bore out the factory sleeve to retain the new pump in the same location. Made an adaptor pigtail using the factory pump wiring. Pump is larger than original, still no issue with space Making an adaptor pigtail using the original pump harness Pump & tank installed, Volvo line filter added Volvo check valve added (just under the cowl lip) to maintain fluid head at the junction

Gathering fittings for the conversion - I'm going to put a bulkhead connector so the bay side hoses can be detached without missing with the interior connections. Down the road I will be altering the drivetrain, so I want to make it as adaptable as possible

I've had the same issue for days now. I posted about it in the chat section, but now I can't even find my post 😞

OK - so with mine, cleaning the contacts & replacing the rivets with brass screws has resolved the lack of contectivity. circuit open circuit closed

Primed & painted the cowl, and prepped the underside of the cowl panel have to make new foam pads for the cowl cover to replace these

I've had to resort to posting links from Postage - the 'choose and/or "drop" doesn't work - returns a server error everytime

Got the hatch outer upper seal rebounded with the black super weatherstrip glue. I'm leaving the hatch off for another day to make sure the glue is fully set this time side panel buffers in I was going to do the cowl seal, but there was a little surface rust along the inner lip, so I took the cowl off & got sidetracked cleaning off the surface rust in the cowl & used Rustoleum Rust Restorer on it. Really hard to wire brush up under the cowl under the base of the windshield looked much like the underside of the cowl prior to cleanup slamming the door with the new seal caused stress on the mirror mount - the plastic inset broke. I made a SS plate to reinforce it, glued the original piece back in place, and added a retaining clip to join the two retaining clip reinstall

test fitting the 1/4 inner panel - the lip covers the exposed opening original gap (pass side) with screws visible left hatch area panel test fit - note I did not re-introduce the speaker perforations in the bottom left. I'm not going to put speakers in the original locations anyway. vent slots recut, retain clips in place

I removed the switch by drilling out the rivets. Looks like the contacts thru the rivets were bad. There was discoloration on both conductor tabs. I have to retest the switch with the cleaned contacts aluminum rivets contact design - open contacts closed if the continuity is good with the cleaned contact area I'll use brass screws instead of aluminum rivets