HusseinHolland

I made a start on redoing the fuel lines. I used sleeved 10mm nitrile line with quick-connect fittings. The ends are clamped to the hard lines, and are not intended to be removed moving forward. The quick connect fittings allow you to disconnect the rail from the feed & return. Did the return first. Rerouted behind the filter to get it away from the motor. Support bracket previously attached to the filter clamp is now secured it at the inner fender QC fittings for the (Volvo application, Mahle KL 196) filter needed a longer M5 bolt while I was there I added a branch to allow me to add the fuel pressure gauge (M10x1 w/QC, 1/8" NPT) Used a left over silicone elbow from my C30 turbo upgrade, perfect fit for the torn filter-AFM elbow

I'll get a better sense of what I'm facing with the wheel/hub concern once I pull all the suspension apart. In the meantime, I did get the 300ZX T rear rotors redrilled to 4x114.3 using the Milkfab template. I had to redraw the center to 67mm, as the printed version they send was only 66mm ID. I used an xacto to carefully cut out one locating hole so that it is a snug fit on a stud, then center-punched the other 3. I also used the steel wheel center I cut off the spare wheel to test fit the rotor. as provided: laminated the template to make it rigid enough to be useful Checked the spacing & offset on each relative to each other and the inner & outer hub lips before drilling All done

I guess I'm just used to cars (such as Volvo) that utilize wheels that are (obviously) lug-centric with cone-seated nuts or lugs to ensure proper seating, that also combine hub-centricity in their design. All the hubs on the cars have a wheel centering lip. I may just be assuming that wheels I've bought are lug & hub centric. The only aftermarket wheels I ever bought that were only lug centric were those American Standard wheels of the 70-80's that were in many cases slotted to allow fitment to a couple of close bolt patterns. Those do not use a cone seat. I had definite balance issues with that style - one had to torque the lugs with the wheel unloaded to avoid vibration. I'll take a read of the article.

There is a significant difference between lug-centricity & hub centricity, I'm sure you understand. Relying solely on lug centricity brings in greater likelihood of wobble or out-of-round. I guess I'll have to figure it out. I'm just surprised that no one has either encountered this or commented on it using aftermarket wheels.

Not the same OD F & R

Andrew from Milkfab got back to me with some info: "The factory hub diameter on the rear is ~67mm. Most aftermarket rotors and factory drums have a center bore ID between 67mm and 68mm to center the rotor to the hub. The wheel itself centers on the studs in the rear so the 73mm inside diameter is for clearing the front hub only." Having wheels not hubcentric seems like such a bad idea, especially when increasing the rotating mass with larger wheels / tires. I'm going to get hubcentric spacers for the rear - 67.1 - 73.1. Anyone have experience with this?

I would use a Volvo part on my Datsun, however I would NEVER use a part designed for any British car. I used to have MGB's back in the late 70's early 80's. The quality of the factory parts was always less than stellar 😂 I'm sure you've heard the joke about why Brits drink warm beer?

Searching has not brought me any definitive answers. It appears the front and rear hubs are not uniform size? I'm asking for two reasons - 1) because I'm converting the rear brakes to disc, and the Milkfab kit uses 300ZX Turbo rotors which have a 67mm bore. 2) I bought Konig Rewind 15x7 4x114.3, 73.1 bore 0 offset - So now I'm assuming I will need hub centric spacers for the rear wheels, but not for the fronts? Can anyone advise?

I didn't realize I was missing this until I was scanning through the FSM looking for the PCV. On old SOHC Volvos they use a "Flame Trap", between the air inlet and valve cover with a small vacuum draw that serves the same purpose, but that's it, they don't have a PCV in addition. Don't think I can make one of those work, so I guess I'm looking for the 20ga shotgun cleaning brush to mod 😄

Thank you. The top mount bracket? It has a raised ridge & folded rear edge, I think it will be OK. I know what you mean though. I tried to locate a spare bracket with similar form without success. I can always remake it DTR if need be. Yeah, I wanted to drop the height & move the booster vacuum rearward. Vacuum draw out the end of the plenum will be much the same as the top rear. I'll be revising the AC lines coming out the firewall & wanted as much space in that area as possible until I have that all figured out.

I made a bracket when I got home - I saw that the brake valve was in the location that made sense to mount to - confirmed by Gwri8's pics. I wish I had checked back here first & seen his & your pics above, that would have simplified things a little 😬 In any event, this is what I made tack welded a few pieces of cut up bracketry to test I only have a finger width between the back lower edge & the steering shaft, so I didn't want to move it any further rearward . Made the upper support bracket to have 2 mounts at the shield, and holes to allow the stock bay light bracket to stay where it belongs. Engine harness lays nicely over the bracket. I curved the left side to both make it more rigid, and to make sure there is no harsh edge for the harness to chafe on.

I've owned Volvos since I was a teenager. I have quite a stash of parts 🙂 I'm thinking of revising the compressor mount. Volvo setups all have rubber isolators on the pivot and adjusters to reduce vibrations. They use aluminum mount brackets, which I'm not prepared to modify to fit (pic of my old Volvo 740) What I can do is weld these steel sleeves to my existing mount bracket, to match the mount design

Looking at this as my 75 has the original relay with 250K miles on it... The 120 relay is no longer 'cheap' at anywhere from $170 on up in searches. I have the original 127 from my 87 Fiat/Bertone X1/9, but I'd hardly consider that a safe spare. I'm wondering if anyone documented the resistor value for the AFM circuit. That would be the only 'special' component required. Diodes are just diodes. The VW site linked is very informative, but does not give that info.

Had to sketch out the overall layout. This is following the hose routing of my dealer-installed universal/generic AC kit. This is also assuming I don't use any stock factory AC lines, which is still an option I'm considering. Once I have the dash & HVAC box apart & can see what the evaporator looks like, I can make a more informed decision on that. Seltech compressor, this one was specifically sold for Volvo 240 & 740 series cars. I'm going to modify the steel mount bracket on mine to move the compressor back. Mine uses the rear groove on the pulley. The compressor was one of the reasons I could fit the eFan/shroud, so I'm hoping I can revisit that once I have the compressor repostioned Definitely room to move the compressor back at least the inch or so needed I did forget to measure the ear spacing on the new one to compare (3.25" on the installed unit), however that is a pretty standard measurement, so hopefully it's the same or I will have more work involved in modding the mount bracket

Thank you - that makes the positioning & upper bracket clear. I will just have to make a mock up bracket that positions the shield at that place relative to the frame rail. As an aside, I see that the booster check valve is placed with the grey side facing the intake. On my 75, the (original) valve was also placed that way, however the arrow markings and blow-through indicate that is should be facing the opposite way. Is yours original?

Hopefully I will be OK with the seal depth change. That is SOP on Volvos, which can easily see way past 250K miles in service.

They don't provide any guide for install? It would seem to make sense to start from the speedo & tach openings to makes sure those are properly located, then stretch the leather out from there?

Thanks for responding. So, the lower bracket attaches to the two mount points in the frame rail (vertical surface?). Do you have any recollection of what it looks like, is it essentially an upside-down L?

Does anyone have pics of the brackets that tie this shield to the inner fender/frame rail, or access to the original parts catalog so I can figure them out that way? The upper tie plate appears to be relatively straight forward, going to the same location as the bay light on my 75? The lower bracket I have no idea. I want to add that shield to my 75 280Z Thanks in advance

280ZX is also 2.5bar? Volvo also used 2.5bar on most NA applications, but those regulators are not bolt on replacements (refer to Zed Heads earlier posts)

I have that one in use on my Volvo 740 (first pic). I don't recall being able to drop it below 3bar. I'll have to try it at some point to verify.

Thanks for the link, Steve. Unfortunately, beyond mentioning that the Ford Taurus fan/shroud can/should work, there aren't any specifics (Edit - note that in the video he is using the same Volvo fan in place of the Taurus unit). Not interested in generic/aftermarket solutions, they are always a disappointment. I've tried a range over the years on my X1/9 where eFan cooling is critical.

Yes, the orifice tube will be in the #6 hose from the evaporator to the condenser, in the engine bay. The expansion valve gets gutted or removed if possible. Accumulator will go pretty much where the receiver/drier was placed, but higher up. Has #12 fittings, I will step down to #10 hose. low pressure switch goes on the accumulator (Four Seasons 33197, Volvo 740 application)

Played with the eFan. No way it's gonna work. I can't get clearance no matter what. I don't want to use an aftermarket eFan, they just don't have the pull of the Bosch units. So, I trimmed the Volvo (Aisin) fan to fit the Nissan clutch I trimmed the top half of a Volvo standard shroud to fit, I don't like the fan blade exposed. Riveted brackets to either side of the rad vertical plates to retain it ( I used 3M Velcro to hold it while I figure those out) While I was in there, I fixed the distributor vacuum line/tee connection to the TB and charcoal cannister The distributor wiring had been nicked at some point by the fan, so I re-routed that, and added a sealed 2 pole timer connection where the wire was damaged (no pic) Rewired the AFM also - blurry pic. The heat sheath below is on the dist wiring - since it is now closer to the manifold.

Cleaned up around the crank, and removed the pulley & old seal. Definitely well hardened. There is a decent wear groove on the pulley seal neck, so I made sure to alter the seal depth for the new one After that I cut down the Volvo bolts to match the Nissan length (checked that at the full length they would bottom out before pulling the pump tight to the casing) New pump back on Repaired T/stat cover Volvo bolts, cut down to match Nissan original length, with 10mm heads to make it easier to access by the fuel lines, and harder to overtighten In other news, going to add a fuel pressure gauge over here And got a new throttle cable accordian boot. Not planning on driving it in the rain, but I don't want NY weather working it's way into the cabin