HusseinHolland

Thank you - I did a little searching & found that there are vendors selling the spades with slotted boots/covers. Now I know what they came with, I can use the appropriate spade type that has the spring tab inside, I used regular spades, which will lose contact over time .

@hotsho111 - I looked back at the earlier pics to see what you used to connect the gauge wires - on mine, I had to cut the connector off the stock sender & add spade connectors as a stop gap. I don't know what the factory terminals are supposed to look like for the earlier replacement sender that has no level warning sensor.

I might as well add my pics here - since it's related to the original thread. Drop the tank, and found the source of my gas fumes/overflow when filling. Smaller vent line off the tank was ruptured. I actually realized I could have seen that if I looked through the louver slots in the tail panel Manual for reference filler neck base & clamp in great shape. Removed the remnants of the right side bumper shock, and plugged all the holes. Added butyl to ensure a seal Had to pull out the bottom of the tank a little. I realized there was no way to lever in there from the fuel sender port as there is a baffle in the way. So I just put a threaded bolt in the drain plug and levered the sucker out evenly working around the circumference of the bolt/plug hole Degrease / clean and paint tank. Made an elbow to replace the original large loop, the small line I just ran a longer piece, so it could loop gently Visible through louvers beneath bumper. For the inside, I cut the original hose - most of the inside was perfectly good there was no cracks in the the material, so I just ran a splice section from the tank, and used a large quick connect to join the two. new grommets for the lines from ZcarDepot. I did find out that I put the sender in upside down, as when I started it the gauge pegged full. Drained about 4 gallons, prior to doing the work. I realized the notch in the sender plate was supposed to be on the right not on the left - upside down in this pic

I'll look on their website - if that's the one they sell as a tranny jack, I need it anyway.

No - just a floor jack. Do you mean one of their transmission jacks? I was going to put the car up on jack stands, and use the floor jack to support it, with a wood block to hold it.

To drop the tank, only the large hose on top needs to be disconnected from the vapor tank end when dropping? Or can the vent hoses be accessed from above the tank as you lower it? Should have asked this sooner - I want to drop the tank & check what's leaking on top of mine before I drive 500 miles this weekend...

Cork/rubber composite gasket arrived last night, so I changed it out after work The silicone one (Milkfab is responsive to my inquiry) has torn in several places - note that I did not over torque the cover, in fact they probably could have been snugged tighter, as it took minimal effort using a 1/4 short rachet to crack them free. Main tear that was pushing out in the left rear corner - note that they spec a bead of silicone to adhere the gasket to the cover. That was allowed to set up prior to install. Other internal tears I thoroughly cleaned out all the silicone from the gasket retention grooves in the cover. I could find nothing in the factory manual that referenced using any sort of silicone or other agent to secure the stock type gasket. Noting the staggered offset of the gasket at the gear end

For the time being, I added a junction box to replace the old single fuse sub panel, and added 12AWG from there to the new sub panel, to one of the phases. I understand doing this is not to any code. I only have the few circuits running off it, until I get the 6AWG underground feed in place, then I'll properly wire the sub panel with the two phases and connect the 240 branch. Added a ground from the panel to the conduit used to supply the 120v supply Wiring to the 240 outlet above, waiting for the 10AWG individual wires, then I'll wire the receptacle added a GFCI receptacle & a regular on the load side, by the door, separate fused branch from the branches in the west addition and what will be on the south wall. I will continue that branch into the north wall when that addition happens All the conduit tidied up on this side now After that - the (Electric) power steering pump on the C30 is on the way out (130K miles) - making a nasty scream under load (cornering). Looking online, the FoMoCo part is pretty indestructible, except for the lower shaft bearing, which is not in an oil bath like the upper one. The unit is not intended to be serviced, so a Filter cutter is required to cleanly cut off the motor cap. after that, the reservoir is removed by stretching the Oetiker clamp, then the pump is removed, followed by a drive gear , c clip & washer - then the motor shaft can be tapped out of the upper bearing. bearing destruction New Timken bearing installed more to come

Yeah - I would not want to be the passenger. My wife is a really good sport 🤪

Back in 2016 I went to the Tail of The Dragon with 30 other C30's from across the country - the car handles really well in this type driving

It's a great car - interior is quite unremarkable (Ford era Volvo), however for my size it is extremely comfortable & pedal position, etc., is perfect. I don't have any interior pics besides a couple from when I replaced the upholstery with leather. It is 6 speed manual. I converted it to AWD after putting a larger turbo/tune in it, as FWD just gave too much wheelspin . Plenty of exterior pics, it's a good looking form 😁

Small amount of work accomplished today, between chores & visit from a good family friend who had moved upstate. Go the junctions on the center beam connected for the attic lighting branch, the overhead lighting, and the outlet on the me main door post. Also ran the 3/4 conduit from that box up & over to the south wall, where it will ultimately connect to the feeder branch coming down the south west corner post. Separated all the 12/2 and 14/3 wiring into their own conduit. I worked in layers starting with the grounds, then neutrals, then travellers, switch outputs and finally the hot feeds Had to make schematics for each junction, to make sure I didn't mis-connect anything, having a 3way switched circuit for one branch of the lighting makes me check 3 times at least. Hopefully get more done than this tomorrow.

Details on the Xenon rear spoiler install. The way it's designed, the end caps press against the rear quarters. The issue there is that the pressure causes the spoiler to pull away from the hatch along the top, and on the back edge. To counter that, I added two more M3 SS machine screws to the outer edge of the hatch, and to the vertical outer edge. screw heads are visible from the outside, however I'm OK with that.

Hello Steve - I have them - they come with the new emblems - the spoiler is thicker than sheet metal, so I don't k now if the clips will lock into place. I didn't want to risk drilling what would then be an oversize hole in the spoiler & have the clip not work as intended.

Got the new Datsun & 280Z emblems today (from resurrected classics). I contemplate the location of the Datsun emblem a bit, since on the hatch, it is set on a diagonal - it's obviously not really intended to be set in a horizontal spot. I ended up angling it very slightly to mimic the hatch fitting 280Z set horizontally, 15mm up from bottom edge I just drilled the spoiler slightly under the pin size, so it's a press fit

Yes - I got that - you can see the shoulder placement in my second pic - when reversed, it is stretched on the area between #1 & the cam chain

Not good - this gasket is coming apart - just noticed this spread. Driving about 500 miles round trip next weekend to the Carlisle Import Show - so I've ordered a Mahle cork/rubber version to tide me over. I've emailed MilkFab.

Good to hear - I bought one of these to replace the crap Delco rebuild (massive current draw when hot cranking) from RockAuto - still haven't installed it though, I just re-installed the reman the PO had installed while I was waiting for the WAN unit

I have noticed that the front end gets flighty when I'm up around 80 +, depending somewhat on the roadway, but definitely a touch hair-raising. Original air guides/ valance are present behind Xenon spoiler. I have new Eibach lowering springs, all new struts, all new suspension bushings (all poly except the rear caster rod bushings),, etc., front and rear. Wheels are 15" W/ Hena Forceum tires (forgot profile, I'll edit later) Anyone have similar experience?

I did not touch the steering column for dash removal on my 75

Final pics of the Xenon spoiler install, painted

Had an hour after work before Pilates class with the Mrs, so I started tidying up the branches at the panel & end wall, and began wiring the branch grounds and then the neutrals

Got it - I am going to either remove the 14/3 currently run with the 12/2 from the 1/2" conduit visible in the above pics & run it in a separate 1/2" conduit, or replace that section with 3/4" conduit. I will also remove one of the three 12/2's from the short 3/4" conduit run, and put that in a separate 1/2" conduit.

Thanks - when you say overfilled - you mean using 1.25" conduit for the 6/3 feed? I don't want to risk it not passing, since the building inspector will see it when they look at the addition work I am proposing. It does look like more than 40% fill, if you count the width of the cable as the circumference for fill. I will need to find out what AWG to use if I have to also run a ground back to the Mains ground at the house. I was looking at this article - but it's from 2022, and another Fiat guy said the new NEC calls for ground at sub panel to run back to mains

Thank you for your input Patcon (Dave?) The 6/3 I bought has a ground wire - did you mean an additional ground to run along with? Or are you referring to the grounding for the sub panel? The sub panel is a 12 circuit, and I added the mains breaker to kill the entire garage. Do I still need an external junction with something like the split bolts to connect the buried line to the line that would then pass inside & connect to the breaker? Since it is a sub panel, the ground requirements may be less than the 2 8' rods? It's still a separate structure, which is why I assumed the 2 grounding rods Running the 10/3 and 12/2 cables For those circuits, what I'm intending are joined boxes , with one carrying the 10/3, and the upper the 12/2 and 120v receptacles. I would only have 3 240v in total on the side, the 120v I would add more. Vertical placement on the post here, horizontal when it runs along the south wall at approx 4' off the floor EDIT - ordered 10AWG solid copper THHN in red, black & white to run in the 3/4" conduit with the 12/2