HusseinHolland

Made a wheelie cart to hold the bins I have. Now I need to make another for the narrower bins that I was going to put against the wall Decided I might as well make it a mini bench with a small vice Eave test with scraps - cut to 12 degrees, with a 3/8" filler also cut to 12 degrees put the PVA in the siding gap cut & fitted the actual eave. Made a center support, since I couldn't do a single 18' run and got primer on it. I'll caulk it tomorrow.

Thank you 😊 Started on the eave(?) above the doors. Removed the damaged one, to find (of course) that there are additional issues. need to add a 1.5" strip to seal the gap that exists behind the eave. I'm going to cut it from the extra PVA I have, don't have to worry about rot with that. I bought 1X6 pine instead of the shallower 1x4 for a deeper overhang of the doors

Just been futzIng after work - cut 4 PVA vertical strips for the door to frame "seal". I added the soft brush style sealing used for vinyl windows (at least I think that's what it's intended for). Also leveled the tops of the doors and added PVA caps to fill the gaps in varying sizes. I'll add a brush seal to them also, to minimize the air gaps. With those I'll probably put the seal onto the PVA on the door, as it doesn't really like to stick to wood painted or not. Sticks just fine to vinyl. Have to deal with the irregular door bottoms also, now those are the main draft (visible in last pic of last post )

Many thanks. It truly is. This morning I had time to get a top coat on the shelves. I mixed a slightly lighter grey - the earlier version I felt was too dark for the sides Started putting stuff on them this afternoon. I'll be rearranging crap for sometime

My X1/9 BaT auction is now live

Small stuff in the garage. Trying to figure out what I wanted with the forward lower half of the (repaired area) south wall I decided to pegboard down to about 2', then I'm adding another 2x4 plate on the bottom to make a raised "shelf" - I need a place to store heavier odds and ends that I keep in these plastic bins. This will work out fine. The shelf is total of 8" depth, so doesn't extend in beyond the sill plate After I added the 2nd from the top 8" deep x 63" shelf, l added some more 7.5" x 22" corner shelves - I've set sheathing on top of the 1-in insulation, in between the studs, so I can use the maximum depth for the shelves (added approx 3" additional in the recess). I decided I didn't want any additional full width shelves, trying to keep this wall as open as possible. Had time to prime. I can't do anything with the other half of the lower wall, until I address the sill in that area. So that's going to just stay the way it is for the time being.

Fibreglass tail panels finally came - I placed the order in mid November with Zociety - I was getting worried that they were a scam. Oscar did communicate a couple times, but he always implied shipping was just around the corner. Anyway, he was very apologetic at the end there, and said that if I were to buy something else in the website they would give me a break. They appear solid enough. I went for the plain fiberglass finish. I have to paint them anyway & want the chrome edge, which they do not offer as a finish

Looking a little further online for GM 80's versions - there is this brand new old stock one which certainly could be adapted. It has 2 diaphragms instead of one eBay listing

RWD Volvos from 85-98 (240, 740, 760, 940, 960, S90, V90) all use a similar charcoal canister (GM origin) with the same EVAP valve setup. Z version (brought forward from ZedHead's post)

Much better temps than back home - still some inclement weather though

Took me at least a couple hours of rearranging & moving some stuff to the basement, but I made room & got the Z inside. Still have the V8 drivetrain sitting in between the two cars Made sure I could actually lock the garage doors... Ended up leaving it out though - I decided that since I was going to be away for a week, now was a good time to patch the broken concrete floor (from the roots of the very large pine tree on my neighbor's lot, that is now gone). That can set all week now without any floor traffic. Still a mess, but at least closer to level it was difficult to roll carts or the bench over that patch during to the rise/drop. I broke up the loose pieces so that I had a good 4" or so of depth, then used a mortar mix to feather it to the old surface, after cleaning with acid.

Worked on the replaced sill area today. Added a plate to further remove the studs from any possible damp/water contact. Spliced in stud sections. Added a 2x6 header(support?) above the Southeast door - there are 3 plates there (see left of pic for reference ) - I figure this should help stiffen it up a bit. I'll jack the center a hair before I tie it to the plate sandwich Added some cross braces to stiffen up the wall after the corner post for the existing top plate..... ......and the new header post were in place. Have to add splints(?) to the repaired studs Next I need to clear this out so I can get the Z inside while we are out of the country for a week Feeling better now it's going back together. I can't work on the cars until my stuff is out of the way & back where I can find things as needed

After work yesterday I got the left door hinges attached, the pane of glass installed, and some glazing putty on a couple other loose panes, then primer on the replaced wood, in time for it to dry (hopefully enough) before the rain started. got some top coat on the doors and jambs, sorted out the door latches

Another detour - since I started aligning the barn doors, I decided I needed to address the floating center post Had to cut out 16" of the dimensional 4x4 center post, and about 12" of the dimensional 2x4" door frame/posts. Fortunately I have saved sections of old posts I've cut up for other areas, so I had sufficient lengths to get clean sections for here. I tied two 2x4 together to get the center, set that on a piece of pressure treated sill, and then added the side posts The external plates needed to be actual 1x, so I got 5/4" x 6" decking & cut the width down to 4.5", to get the total 9" width needed Covered the center area with butyl wrap before putting the external plates in Replaced the wood screws with 3" 5/16" lag bolts, so that should hold up. Don't have any in the left door yet, ran out of time & light. I'll deal with that after work tomorrow.

Thank you for your advice! Feels solid enough - definitely not concerned about working in/around it now. In order to make sure this is taken care of before we leave town on Sat., I took half a day today. Put down the sill seal, with a 1/2" strip of butyl squished along the outer edge. new pressured treated 2x10 sill plate, 8' section starting from the East end. 4x4" post in place, and dimensional 2x4" post for the door frame. Wall studs still to be addressed. Outer panels in place for this corner. Sealed the sill at the corner also. Have to get new siding for the bottom 1' of the wall - I'm going to use concrete backer board for at least the lowest run (6") off the sill These garage doors have been unusable for at least 10 years, wedged shut. Now I can open & close them (after trimming the righthand one), I need to address the latches to properly secure them, and replace the pane of glass I broke.

So it took me literally hours just to set up the posts & plate. First I screwed the plate to the rafters, then levelled the posts & jacked it carefully using 2 bottle jacks & then a floor jack in the middle (cut all the stud nails first!). Then I cut 2x4s to fit (95") & clamped then screwed them together Added some cross bracing, since it's gonna be there a couple days, since it took me so long to setup . Found after that that the corner post is toast so I removed it entirely Extra large end opening now. Have to do the sill first, then the corner post , then tie the door frame to the post, then address the studs Doors will be much more level than before, once it's all tied together Cleaned the foundation, packed some gravel in the openings & added some concrete (not finished) - I'm going to add another anchor bolt at the west end to the 8' section going in

Thank you Pat. I still have a few good length dimensional lumber from the original wall - so that would be good for the top plate, and I think I have several in about 8' lengths which would work for posts. It did indeed rain all day today - this is what the back of my yard looks like whenever we have heavy rain. It's a very high water table, there is a stream that runs around the outside of the property between me and my neighbor, and the soil only goes down maybe 2 ft or less before it becomes clay For perspective, this is the view from the house (different day) right-hand side (West) is where it pools.. Even with that, the back of the garage did not get very wet or have any accumulation to speak of. So, I think I can just backfill that area with gravel. Since I couldn't work outside, I just did some more cleanup inside. Added sheathing to the inside of the garage doors, as those were pretty darn drafty and also a little wonky. While I was at it I also put some primer on the new shelves and upper sheathing Rain is supposed to stop later today, so hopefully tomorrow I can start with the jacking and replacing of the sill sections.

Yeah, I have one herniated disc, which I've been getting treatment for for the past 2 years now. Chiropractor puts me on a rack every couple-few weeks to stretch it back out & allow the disc to move. It is good overall, if I don't over do it. OK - The rafters have hurricane ties to the top plate. I was thinking that it would have to be that way - so, a top plate that bridges the rafters fore-aft, and then posts with the jacks under. The existing studs at the East end have dropped at least 1/4-3/16" into the rotted sill, so I would cut the nails for each stud, then jack the temp posts just enough to loosen the studs, with enough lift to get a new 2x10 sill in place. I assume I will section the sill into at least 3-4 pieces - given the studs are 24" OC, and the total length of the sill is 18' ?

My back has been bothering me for several weeks, so nothing going on with the garage. I felt well enough Thursday to get a little forward movement. Good job I was going to the chiropractor Friday AM, 'cos my back told me I shouldn't have. Yanking the nails was what tugged on my lower back, mostly. Anyway, cut out the sheathing, added insulation & fitted the uppermost shelf. I'll finish the shelf brackets after I do the pegboard. Yesterday I removed the lower sheathing. Sill plate is in really bad shape at this end excavated more of the soil outside, made a more complete trench to keep water off the sill/wall until I get to finish the drainage and sill/wall, it's supposed to rain all day today Added some wood to the outside, to keep the elements out. it was in the low 30's, so very cold Have to figure out how to jack up the wall so I can get the bad sill out. added some small shelves Also added wheels to one of my benches

Replaced the leaking (less than a year old, almost no miles) left rear caliper(2014 Mustang GT) today. I had noticed that the front reservoir of the master cylinder had dropped about halfway. Couldn't see any signs of fluid in the driveway on wheels, so I had to get underneath and look around. I found evidence of dampness on the left rear lower slider boot, so it was apparently dripping down out of the main piston boot. No warranty, so I bought a reman off RockAuto Installed, and bled Also aftermarket pulse damper arrived today, so installed that as well definitely makes the fuel rail quieter at idle. Never seen a factory one that required a vacuum reference, but this one is intended to have it.

I drove it yesterday evening , probably 30 miles, and to work and back again today. No hiccups. Yeah the coils heating up and then opening the circuit makes sense in hindsight, because as soon as it cools down electrically speaking then the circuit would be engage hence the tying in with me blipping the throttle, which was obviously coincidental to the relay coil cooling off enough to reengage the pump. That's what I'm assuming anyway.

Added the three sec primer circuit after work today. I could actually make it anytime duration but 3 seconds seems more than long enough. Harness tucks neatly up under the dash YT Vid

Swapped out the stock relay for the Fiat one, after moving the 85 pin to the other relay socket Thanks again, @Zed Head for sharing your experience with the relay failing. Took the old relay apart, to see how it looked inside: Contacts are crusty, definitely didn't smell as cooked as I thought it might, given how it was cutting in and out. The contact plate definitely looks rough. Since I was under the dash, I started figuring out the wiring for the pump primer circuit. It will tuck nicely up under the steering column, and I will make it insertible, so I can remove/delete it without harming the factory harness. Started right up & hasn't faltered since. I do need to add a pulse damper back, as it doesn't sound as clean as it did at idle before I removed it. Instead of putting the stock one back, I ordered one that will screw into the ORB-8 fitting on the protunerZ fuel rail.

Looking back through some earlier threads, I see that the Fiat L-Jet control relay I have on hand (...127) has the same pinout except for the 85 ground location. I'll try running that while I figure out whether it's worth making a more drastic change, given that all this will be coming out int he next year or so.

Awesome! That makes sense, and would explain why the pump didn't get louder.