HusseinHolland

Trying to find a schematic - typically the bottom-most port is the return - the I/O are in line with each other in the larger housing, so that female side may take some sort of push fit line, I dunno. EDIT - yeah the female is the inlet, looks like the have a designed filter pressed into that

We need 2.5bar for the Z? The adjustable one doesn't drop below 3bar either.

The adjustable regulator is this one: EuroSpec Sport. The standard (non-adjustable 3bar) FPR in the 2nd pic is what all Volvos & VAG came with. The black plastic pod that it sits in is a separate part that was only sold with the feed & return lines attached, so pretty much the only way to get it is to cut it from a parts car. The Volvo 3bar FPR is PN 9404583 for reference. They don't go bad, so if you were going to use one, I'd get it used. EDIT - VAG # 037133035C Bosch # 0 280 160 557 EDIT - this is an aftermarket housing that accepts that style FPR. I just found that searching, so there may be other (less expensive options) This composite one for a Harley also accepts the same design FPR, don't know if the ports are useable

Both of those types are common on Volvo 240 / 740 / 940 series, depending on year. There is a 2.5bar version of the first style (o-ring). The o-ring fitting is the same dimensions as any composite injector, so a universal injector bung could be modded for use. The last one you posted was used on all Fiat/Bertone X1/9's with EFI - 1980-87. There are FPR pods used on 90's Volvo (850, x70) & VAG models that has a removable FPR. Those you can buy Adjustable FPR's for, which would allow changes depending on tuning & other mods. I used one on my old Volvo converted to pickup truck when I +T'd it Downside is you can't buy the pod - it comes with nitrile/nylon sheathed lines attached. I cut them off and/or cut them down & make my own lines Gm also used this design FPR on LS motors - I know because the one I'm putting in my pickup truck has a housing that has the Bosch FPR. So there may be other options. I think using the 3 way Volvo style would work the best in terms of compatibility with the rail, since it has input, return & regulated output . I have another I scavenged from a parts car many years ago, so at some point I can test in on my '75 rail...

T/stat cover came off without too much drama. I had to block sand both surfaces, they were both pitted Chased the threads in the housing, to clean it up. There is pitting in the underside of the cover neck, but the inside is clean. I can only presume coolant has been seeping past the (crappy) Gates upper hose, that wasn't quite the right ID. Cleaned up the pitted area with a Dremel wire wheel, I'll fill it with JB Weld Water pump bolts didn't feel great coming out, so I worked them back & forth fair bit. Mating surface mostly cleaned up here The original hardware for the water pump cleaned up OK, but I think I'll use newer hardware. The T/stat bolts are nasty. The Volvo bolts have integrated flanges & are higher grade While I was in the bay, I added an 80's Fiat brake line clip to replace the broken hood prop retainer (and put some primer on the area where the rad sits up against the panel Checked the fit of the Volvo fan shroud on the rad - should work OK, the center of the fan motor will be offset to the left, and the water pump sits offset somewhat to the right. I'll test fit it once I figure out a suitable method of retaining the shroud flush to the rad core motor.. Have to locate mating pins and/or water proof housing for the eFan connections - pretty sure they are Furukawa or Yazaki ? EDIT - Yakazi 58 Y series EDIT - assuming the shroud & fan clear the waterpump snout, I will wire the fan same way I did on my old Volvo

Is that Good luck (not likely to work out) or Good Luck (I hope you are successful in the attempt) 🤪

Hi Steve Thank you for the offer. I think what I would need to explore this are the OD and thread pitch of the Male fitting and the ID of the Female fitting, where the lines exit the firewall, and the two male fittings on the Evaporator itself - if that's what you have handy. I took this image from the eBay listing. I need to establish if they are all metric or standard. Judging from the other pics, the line fittings are flared (JIC perhaps?), which is not standard for any US type o-ring style fitting (MIOR, MOR, FIOR, FOR, etc.,) This may not be worth the effort if I have to make lines that go into the casing to attach. I don't see any way to convert the outer fittings to o-ring style, unless someone sells repair ends that can be silver soldered to the existing hardlines. There are standard (#6, #8, #10) male & female flare beadlock fittings, but they will definitely be SAE thread, not metric.

Thank you - those make it very clear. I am thinking of buying a used factory AC box with evaporator, since every other part of the dealer AC install is sloppy, I can't imagine the evaporator install is any better. The issue there would be dealing with the factory line fittings. I have no idea if they are standard or some funky metric size/version fittings that will be difficult to find.

Thanks gents. I think I'm just going to remove the cover. I don't need to tempt fate right now. Hopefully the water pump bolts don't snap on me. @Yarb indeed - I will be doing that as I mentioned above 🙂 Seems easier to do it whilst the rad is out the way & I can get a puller on the crank pulley.

So as part of the general overhaul I'm replacing the leaking water pump, and the t/stat cover gasket. I wanted to remove the entire housing to give it an overall cleaning & replace the mount gasket. The issue is the long bolt feels like it's going to snap - I only tried to loosen it slightly, and it just felt wrong. If you've ever snapped a stud I think you know what I'm talking about. The question is, is that a thing that happens with these? It is a relatively long bolt, so it is possible it's twisting somewhat as it turns. I just don't want to have to remove the head to address a sheared off bolt, so if it is fairly common for these to snap, I'll leave well enough alone & just replace the cover gasket & check the T/stat. Any input would be much appreciated front crank seal is also obviously leaking, so I want to address that now as well Fan blade has multiple stress cracks - Volvo used Aisin fan clutches & blades through early 90's on some models, so I have a new fan blade, just have to mod the ID to remove the 'tangs' that will be in the way I will see if I can fit an electric fan & shroud first. All the Volvo (Bosch) ones I have are around 3.5" depth off the rad, which is deeper than the clearance I measured. They work really well. It may work for this install as the fan is offset in the shroud. I'll experiment with that. If so, I'll add a thermoswitch in the lower hose (again using a '80's Volvo coupler intended for this purpose) as there is no rad provision for one.

Just found this thread. Very useful! I've ordered one of these off RockAuto, still a good deal at just over $40 for the 4 Seasons 35086.

I made a line to serve the purpose. Fiat EPDM hose at either fitting, then a Volvo shaped bleed hose with quick connect fittings to make it easy to service without messing with the end fittings

I'm going to piggy-back on this existing thread, rather than start a new one, if that's OK. I asked a related question in Captain Obvious's heater core thread I'm going to revamp the non-factory AC in my 75 280Z, using the accumulator/orifice tube system rather than the antiquated & less efficient expansion valve & receiver/drier setup found on most older (pre mid-late 80's) imports. I've already done this successfully on my Bertone X1/9. The main difference here is that I don't have the factory control head, so I'll likely need to use one of the aftermarket rotary t/stat w/capillary controllers to regulate it. I've bought a universal 12x25" condenser, orifice tube 'repair' kit (Santech ‎MT0669) and a GM accumulator (Four Seasons 33197) typically found found on all 700 Volvos. I will probably use a Sanden or Diesel-Kiki compressor, since that's what I'm familiar with from Volvo applications. I may have a new one in my basement. As long as it has the 4 mount ears I can make it fit. The clutch can be swapped out for a V-belt version. If I keep the current line routing, rather than the factory layout with the receiver drier on the right inner fender, it will greatly simplify the layout. Question is whether I can fit the accumulator on the left side - the receiver/drier is currently stashed down on the inner fender near the manifold/downpipe. Not ideal. I may need to route the lines around to the right & put the accumulator on the existing bracket used for the vacuum tank (I presume) on right inner. That would mean much longer AC lines, so I'll have to figure that out. I have the AC beadlock crimp tool, so making lines from scratch is not a problem. My Z currently has a 14x20" condenser, and I think having a slightly larger overall surface area (approx 300 vs 250 current) can't hurt as a side not, why the heck did Nissan route the distributor feed harness along the rad hose?? Seems like a recipe for diaster. Mine clearly got clipped by the fan at some point

@Captain Obvious - I'm hoping you can clarify how the heater box unites with the AC section - the manual is very unclear to me - does this entire box attach to the one in your picture where the foam seal is located on the left? I'm trying to figure out the layout before I take mine apart. Since it''s not factory AC, I'm wondering how the evap is mounted if the housing is not normally present on Non-AC cars. Can't seem to find a schematic that clarifies that.

Thank you. I made that last year - took about 3 months to do the cut & weld work on it. I wanted to keep the gate functional, and keep the flow of the factory body lines as much as possible. On the bumper install, I removed the rear bumper yesterday. I was surprised to find that my valance is a bolt on desgin - I've seen many YT where they had to cut spot welds to remove it. Perhaps that is only the late 280z? I need to drop the tank so I can get the bumper shocks out before I test fit the rear bumper. While I was on the back end, I added M5 rivnuts and some closed cell foam as a surround for the hatch louvre, that got rid of the rattles & open holes that will only be rust magnets now the car is in NY climate

Just to add to this - the cold start & warmup cycle is MUCH improved - takes less cranking time & throttle response is better than before. Still need to address the fule pump & feed, as the ppl that worked on it previously loved to run much longer hoses on everything, so there is a crimped loop in the feed to the pump, I would expect that is creating a delivery issue at anything over idle load. In any event, I need to drop the tank to remove the rear bumper shocks, for the skinny bumper install.

Can you simplify the input side? The feed is very convoluted. Have you had the same setup since the first pump you installed? Perhaps the elbow right off the pump, so the filter is more inline with the tank outlet. I dunno. Looks problematic to me.

Thanks - that's actually the same as what I used to mount the Nardi wheel. The old Datsun wheel I need the hub for has 2 3-bolt mount patterns, one with 6.5mm holes the other with 8mm holes, 48mm bolt spacing

Still haven't figured this out, so I bought a cheap universal wheel (Nardi/Personal/Momo) Boss kit HUB-N-2 that allowed me to use an old Nardi wheel I had stashed. I'll need to find a 48mm Datsun emblem to replace the Abarth emblem. This will do until I figure out a way to use the Datsun wheel. New dash is here, so that will be on the agenda

Got the wiring harness tidied up before I trimmed the junction area The decel bypass solenoid connector didn't look any better than this EGR one, so I cut that off & replaced it Volvo used a somewhat similar connector, with better waterproofing, through the early 90's, so I replaced it with that type Removed the EGR solenoid, valve, vacuum & exhaust tube while I was there - had to put a helicoil in one stud location blocked off the exhaust manifold port Made a blanking plate & added an elbow 10mm quick release for the booster line. I reinstalled the Datsun check valve, I found that the PO's tech had installed it backwards, with the grey side pointing at the intake. No wonder there were notes on the brake booster not feeling right. crimping all the Delphi terminals - 16way for injectors (12) Decel solenoid, Coolant gauge, and ECT The TPS, CSV, Thermal timer, AAR are in the Sumitomo TS hybrid 090/187 housing on the right Back together & running. Didn't resolve the cold start issue entirely. I need to add a pressure gauge & see what the pump is doing, and actually function test the CSV/timer circuit

Thank you for the information. Interesting that the AAR doesn't perform at optimum. I wonder what the issue is, I would assume idle related, since that's what would happen if the valve doesn't shut properly. Old Volvos & Fiats with D-Jet, K-jet & L-Jet that used a AAR bolted it to the head or to the block, which makes sense if you want it to properly close at normal operating temp.

My 280Z has had all kinds of botch repairs to the EFI harness. Quite the mess. I want to get rid of the spaghetti look while I'm at it. So, I cut the entire harness at the strut tower, and I'll put in a couple gang plugs to tie the new harness to the original. These two were the patched thermal timer & ECT - based on the other end where I can see the cable numbers, I think they had them reversed. That would help explain the horrible starting & rough running I'm using wiring colors based on Volvo conventions, since that's what I'm familiar with. I'll make a legend to translate from the white numbered harness to the colors used. Using new TE/AMP 282189-1 junior timer housings with waterproof seals for the sensors & injectors. These also have the spring release tabs, so much easier than the old style where you need to get in there with a pick to release them. The gang plugs are Deplhi 16 way and TS hybrid 090/187 8 way figuring out the layout on the motor before I add the gang plugs & wrap it. Have to add in the temp gauge wire & the throttle valve, the EGR related wiring I'll dead end since I'm removing the EGR valve & solenoid.

It is. 200WHP & only 2000lbs. JDM K24 with K20 head, 6 speed transaxle. I've had the car for around 16 years, I love it but I'm selling it to fund the Datsun, it doesn't need any more fiddling with 🙂 So 76- on has an alternate bypass to keep the engine properly circulating coolant before the t/stat opens located where? I'm assuming the AAR = aux air valve, but I don't know the layout of the cooling system, and the FSM doesn't show much.

I'll make my own lines. The dash will be coming out anyway. The main thing I have to figure out will be the controller. I'll make new lines & convert to Accumulator /Orifice tube, I did that with my X1/9

Thank you for the research - that is what I have, the t/stat housing with the nipple and the water inlet with same. The hard pipe was removed at some point, and they installed a long loop of heater hose, very ugly work. I'll have to rework it. My AC is most definitely aftermarket - this is what I referred to regarding the line fittings - total crap Control panel