mayolives

Your quote....Since it's an electric pump it will either work or it won't and not become weaker, correct?" I'm supprised no one else responded to this question. A few years ago I replaced my 260's pump because it wasn't running well and the fuel pressure was reading too low. I don't remember how low but it was much lower that FSM spec. I used a new Nissan pump and it restored the pressure to spec and my problem was resolved. My two cents.

The last time I had to remove that stuff was in very hot, SC summer weather. It was a messy job but using a lot of patience, lots of rags and 3M adhesive remover worked for me. I'm not sure of a better way! Have fun and don't forget your gloves!

If you are doing trans. work and not using a lift, this jack works really good! I've had mine for many years and it has been a big help when working alone.

I've used the POR 15 tank treatment two times. Worked well for me and both cars are running strong after at least 5 or 6 years. What treatment did you use? Doesn't look like it did much to protect your tank!

r

This "two screw in the can lid" advice works really well! I used Por 15 products for the rust repair and had to go back to the paint can three times. I've wasted a lot of Por 15 paint in the past but not this time. Really a good idea.

I removed my wipers and the trim today. The side trim does have two screws located under the door weatherstrip. After removing the screws I was able to wiggle the trim loose from the trim above the door. There were no plastic clips present holding the trim in place. No sign of adhesive either. Perhaps this is why the bottom trim was never held in place very well and my top piece just flew off one day after a drive. I will take my glass man's advice when he arrives to determine the best way to keep the top and bottom trim in place. I do new upper and lower strips and a small rubber seal for the permiter of the glass. I'll post my resulting experience after the job has been completed.

My 79 is a non t bar.

Zed Head, My FSM page BF23 is completly different than the one you posted above. It only refers to interior trim and no mention of removing the windshield trim. I'm glad you found this info in your FSM. I probably would have had a problem with this new advice.

Zed Head, Just in case of "distructive disassembly", I have a complete set of good trim at the ready.

So again I believe I've answered my own questions. No thanks to my FSM. I good search here on the site have explained what I need to do. Apparently there are screws under the door seals on the "A" pillar that need to be remived in order to remove the windshield trim. Thanks again to Classiczcars site.

1979 280ZX coupe I'm having a new windshield installed next week and I need to properly remove the trim before my glass man arrives. I can't find a thing in my FSM. Section BF-16 describes the glass part but says "remove the wipers, front pillar garnishes and windshield garnish". It goes on to say" refer to roof trimming for removal". Thus far and have not located anywhere in my FSM that deals with roof trimming. Any ideas where this can be found in FSM. Can anyone describe how I can remome the metal trim without damaging it?

RIP260z: I have searched many times with no luck. If you could find a part number that would be helpful. Also I will gladly purchase any that you may have. Thanks, Tom. (mayolives)

Would you be willing to sell these clips? If so shoot me a price with shipping to N. Myrtle Beach, SC 29582. Thanks, Tom.

I've been looking for these clips for some time. I forget how many per side, perhaps four.

I have a set.

Thanks for all the good suggestions. I don't have much experience with body work. I've paid the price to others over my many years. I agree with comments about the rusted area probably being larger that I can see now. I've used POR 15 products for years and I know it's good stuff. Too bad I don't weld so I plan on using the short hair fiber route. Hopefully the so called "matching" aero paint I ordered will make it all look good.

My 79 zx has a small rust buble, about 1 1/2 inches square, over/under the top windshield trim. The windshied is cracked and scheduled to be replaced. I want to repair the rust buble while the glass is out. I suppose Bondo could do the job but is there a better product that would be as easy and better to use?

I've used two sets of MSA quarter winder seals with no problems. They fit well. Disassemble the windows carefully, clean and buff the frames and the body of your car really well, reassemble and install. Take your time with the tiny screws on the frame and where they mount to the body. They are "fiddly" and can be stuck and stripped easily. Use some pen. oil to lossen them.

The last time I needed padding for a "Z" tank, I visited a Hobby Lobby store and found the material that I needed. Not sure in what department or what the original intended purpose was for the material, but it was rubber like in came in larger pieces that needed to be trimmed to size.

View Advert Need A Good S30 Hood I would like to find a good S30 hood for my 260Z. Advertiser mayolives Date 10/16/2022 Price $0.01 Category Parts Wanted Year 74 Model 260Z

White Post Restorations – Fine Automobile Restorations & Brake Cylinder Solutions My buddy used their services to repair brakes on a 30's Packard.

240 Zadmire ..........I'm impressed with how you just jumped there. I rebuilt a five speed last year and it took me at least two weeks of studying the fsm and finding out how to pull gears, etc. I was lucky enough to have a parts gear box that supplied some of the things I needed. I have a good four speed from a 73 240 but I'm in SC. I'm sure you can find what you need there on the "left" coast.

QUOTE: The trans is totally toasted or still salvageable? You have a job ahead of you but you should be able to find the parts needed. The gear box will have to be removed and pulled apart in order to know what it needs. If you are mechanically inclined there is lots of good information here on the site and at other sites that can guide you through the process. Also, this will be a good time to replace your clutch, pressure plate, through-out bearing and rear main seal. It's not an easy job but other than replacing your transmission with another good one, and they are becoming difficult to find, it's about your only way to get back in the seat.

I have used this cloth type many times. Looks good and doesn't make sticky mess when removed. Amazon has it. Wire Harness Automotive Cloth Tape - Adhesive High Noise Resistance Heat Proof Chemical Fiber Fabric Electrical Tape for Wrapping Wiring Harness/Insulation/Car Engine (0.75″82′Pack of 1 Piece)