mayolives

Zed Head, Thanks. Good easy idea!

This 78 280z is the car I referred to with my EGR question earlier today. The fuel pump had been removed but a new Nissan pump was in the car. I checked it's part number and it is the correct one for this car. That's a score because Nissan isn't giving them away! The new pump does not have a pumping direction marked on it. I suppose I could run some water through it to determine in what direction it pumped but I'd rather not do that to a new pump. One end of it is flat and has no hose connections. The other end has an extended nipple for a hose. On top of the canister, near the flat end is the other hose nipple. The electrical connections are both marked so I'm good to go with that. Any idea which connection is the inlet and the outlet?

Zed Head, The block-off plate is shinny and new looking. The area where it sets on the intake is clean with no rust. I'm reluctant to remove it because I'm sure I will destroy the gasket. Sure I can make a new one but it all looks very neat and tidy. I have the reciept for the block-off plate. It is from Zcardepot and was dated less the two years ago. So if I understand what you have told me, just that plate and the plug installed in the exhaust header will do the trick? Thank you for your help!

I purchased a non running, 78 280z from an estate. The EGR had been removed and a block-off plate had been installed. I put a solid fitting into the exhaust header to seal it off. Under the area where the block-off plate sets, there is a threaded hole. Originally it was fitted with the pipe that went to the header. Do I need fill that threaded hole with a plug?

Myrtle Beach, SC area. No gas to be had. Thousands of HD riders here for Spring get-together along with many beach vacation travelers. Those who need to go home on Friday because of the new arrivals that come on Saturday along with those who are driving here from up North are all asking themselves, "where can I find gas"? Prices were starting at $2.69. What will they be soon?????

I suspect that It would take a lot to damage it by dropping it on a rubber mat, but I agree that your problem could be located at the countershaft. Also, if you installed gears from different transmissions, this could easily cause a whine due to wear patterns not being the same. Could the gears "wear in" with more use? It's difficult to judge just how loud your whine is from the video due to not having the console in place, etc. I have a G-force gear box in one of my cars that really whines and sings all the time so I'm kind of numb to the noise. How much have you driven your car and has the whine sound changed, louder or less loud during test drives?

QUOTE: " I am trying to figure out if these are things I could fix myself." Working with springs and struts on these cars requires, knowledge, and the correct tools. The springs can really hurt you if you don't know what you are doing! Tread carefully! If you are not equiped, find someone who is and has the experience to help you or do it for you. Your pictures indicate to me that your front end needs work and I suspect that your car doesn't handle as it should.

I can't imagine not replacing all the clutch parts, including the slave cyl. and the pilot shaft bushing while you are in there. I always buy a "clutch kit" so that it all works together as it should. Mixing parts from different models/years can get you in trouble. Lot's of info here about what to avoid.

I used zcardepot's replacement antenna on a 77 280 last year. I fit and worked like new. As I remember, I had to trace the wiring to get it working correctly.

QUOTE: "I do have a FSM but have no clue where to start". I understand your lack of experience, but there is hope. Again, the FSM is your friend. Go to the Engine Tune-Up section, trouble diagnoses and corrections, ET14. Just follow the probable causes for the condition you told us about earlier. Work through some of that and repost. It's difficult to offer advice without more information from you. These engines are somewhat simple compaired to today's engines that need to be "plugged" in to diagnose problems. Hang in there. Many of us where exactly where you are at a point in the past. There are a few good and helpful members here that will probably help you to get up and running after you are able to provide more feedback.

Your problem could be a number of things. A good battery is a place to start. Check your fuel pressure with a gauge installed in the gas line before it enters the fuel filter. The cold start system is more complacated and I would suggest down loading a factory service manual to learn about it. Guessing with new parts is not a good idea and can become expensive. The FSM has all the answers. Do you have a friend close by who knows more than you do? Keep us posted.

QUOTE "Im installing the JDM taillights so I removed the brake switch from the turn signal circuit. Also I installed another 1157 socket on the top row of taillights of the JDM lights. This gives a much better brake light." Please explain how you removed the brake switch from turn signsl circut.

Yes, That is my typo. My 240 is a 1973. Opps!

During the past months I have replaced the clutch assembly in a 74 240z, 78 280z, and a 79 280zx. I ordered and received all three clutch kits from Zcardepot and all three worked just fine!

I have used this method many times. Not when building a new engine, but when working with oil pump or distributor. I remove all 6 spark plugs then use a remote starter button/switch, place my finger in #1 hole and when piston comes up on compression stroke you will feel it. Then I manually turn the engine over to move piston to the top of cylinder by watching it and the TDC timing mark. When the piston is at the top and TDC marks align you are where you need to be to insert pump or distributor. No need to remove valve cover. Works for me!

What are you working on? What year is your car?

I reused mine with no problems. Be sure to use snap ring pliars when removing and reinstalling them. Best not to "dig" them out with a screw driver or other tools because you could bend and deform them.

Blue's collection of tech tips I used this link when rebuilding my 5 spped a few monts ago. Lot's of good advice that, along with the FSM, walked me through it.

View Advert 280zx Non Turbo Distributor I posted my need for a distributor magnet assembly and recd. no replies. So, how bout a complete distributor from a 79 through 83 280zx, non turbo car. The magnet ring under the stator must not be broken, because that's what I need. If you have one and need to check the magnet ring, be very careful when removing the 3 screws on the stator. If you use an impact device to free the screws, the magnet will probably break. A little WD-40 or other will free them. Advertiser mayolives Date 05/12/2020 Price $1.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1979 Model 280zx

Dave at Arizona Z Car has said that he intends to offer a custom, billet, cnc machined, aluminum brace that would allow z owners to use the finned, LSD differential cover with larger oil capacity. I have communicated with several members here in the past that have expressed an interest in this brace. Perhaps Dave would be more inclined to start production on this piece if he had some idea of our interest in buying it. If you are interested in having one, please respond to this post and email Dave. His address is dave@arizonazcar.com

Check out Michelin's Pro Cup. They are fast, soft, DOT and last much longer than Kumho Ecsta V700, Hoosier R3S03, and most other racing tires. They are not inexpensive.

My office assistant handed me a real nice 280Z watch with 1978 and my initials on the face. Have had it on my wrist ever since!

Myrtle Beach, SC 87 1.87 Mid Grade 1.96 93 2.05 VP unleaded 101 Race Fuel 6.50

I am trying to start my 82 zxt parts car engine. It has not been started for at least 6 years. I changed the oil and filter, put marvel mystery oil on the cylinders (through the spark plug holes), and have drained all the gas from the tank and refilled it. I left it rest for about two weeks thinking that the mystery oil would have a chance to work it's way around the rings and perhaps even down the cylinder walls before I tried to start it. After installing a fresh battery, the ignition switch would only make a faint clicking sound that I don't believe was coming from the starter. So, I then removed the old spark plugs and shorted across the two large started posts with a screwdriver in order to pump the mystery oil out of the plug holes and spin the engine over to get some fresh oil moving around. The engine turned over freely and after a short period I stopped this procedure, and installed the new plugs. So, having said all of the above, now when I jump across my starter, it will only spin and will not engage on the flywheel. Have I fried the starter and/or the ignition switch by shorting across the two posts on the starter? Also, the ignition switch is just "hanging" down at the steering column and the two red wires on it are not connected to anything. Will this effect the switch and prevent it from working? Does the switch have to be installed /grounded in order to work? Thanks for any advice and your help, ............mayolives.