NocturnalEmber

Different terminals? Would new fusible links not fit into the factory terminals? Or are you suggesting the connectors might be in too rough shape to re use? I'm guessing if it came down to replacing those two green fusible links I would just depin them from the connectors, right? With those is that typically done from the back of the connector or the connecting side?

@SteveJ, @Yarb, @Zed Head I again appreciate the effort! I will go and ohm the fusible links out. I do have one question, though. Assuming one of these links fail the ohm test, where would I source replacements? I've looked online and all I can find are the four common fusible links on the strut tower.

I'm assuming I'd just disconnect the white plug at both ends, so I'm left with just the links themselves and the connectors at each end, and i'd just stick one lead into one side and the other lead into the opposite side of the same fusible link, check the resistance, and repeat for the other one? Is there a specific range of ohms I am looking for?

@Zed Head I think I found what you were talking about. I never knew they were a fusible link, though. I've attached a few pictures of every angle I could get, but that's the only obvious thing I could see under the cowl coming off the positive terminal and what looked like it also ran off to another harness.

@Zed HeadThat was the page I looked at I believe. I'll open the hood and take a look but the diagram to me reads somewhat confusing. To me it looks like it points under the mounting plate the other fusible links are on to a black spot lol. Would you happen to know what keywords I could use to get a good image of it so I know what im looking for? My keywords haven't turned up anything except four easily visible fusible links. Also I just test each end of the car for resistance/continuity I'm guessing? Any specific numbers I'd be looking for? Or just not open/infinite?

No offense taken! Sometimes it pays to look over things again to make sure. I actually double checked that before I put it in myself, and re confirmed just now; The flow arrows are pointing towards the pump, so all is good there! I did clean the fusible links with some DeoxIT, though I only sprayed the respective male/female connections on the car and in the links themselves (this was done probably about a week ago.) No corrosion visible, but I'll pull back the sheath on the links and take some pictures today as part of what SteveJ asked. I will look into tightening them. Grounds seem fine (at least all the ones I am aware of: Battery negative, starter, engine, alternator, intake manifold grounds, one near the AFM.) @Zed Head I actually wasn't aware there was a fusible link running off the battery positive post. Do you have an image by chance? I've seen it in the FSM just now, but I'm not sure if that would assist me in locating it 100% (also how would i test that, any specific amount of ohms I'm looking for? or would it just be a completely open circuit?) TIA!

Will do! I just wanted to update everyone on that accidental discovery I made last night to make sure that wasn't going to change the direction that was being suggested. I typically keep my multimeter within close reach, so I will get to those tests today and report back! I've got my multi meter and test light handy/within arms reach usually, they're an invaluable part of my toolbox.; The multimeter has came in handy especially when I initially got the car to verify there was voltage at the pump wires before I installed the fuel pump. I only put two gallons of fuel into the tank, so that could have something to do with it, but I figure it should still pull fuel, I'm using the top bung, which I believe is the correct one for feed. It's nearly horizontal, not quite as vertical as the one in the guide, but close. A huge thank you again to everyone! I will report back later today when I have more concrete test results.

I really want to extend my appreciation to everyone that has taken time out of their day to upload what they have. @SteveJ @Zed Head @Captain Obvious @siteunseen @Reptoid Overlords and @Yarb. I apologize if I left anyone out but I think I included everyone. Again, thank you for taking the time you have thus far, it is tremendously appreciated. My lack of reply for the past few hours was because I was out tinkering with the car. This may change or alter what you all have mentioned previously, so I wanted to report in on this before going further. I was replacing the thermostat today as part of giving the car a once over, and while I was at it I installed a new coolant temp sensor (the two pin one for the ecu) as I had it on hand anyway and the factory one looked rather jaded. While I was in there, I double checked my fuel lines for leaks, etc. I went to start the car, and since I had replaced the tank to pump line with more of a correct size that would route through the grommet in the body (3/8"), I thought I should prime the fuel pump and line. I disconnected the spade connector at the starter and gave the key a few turns to try and prime the pump. Well, nothing happened. I heard the relay in the passengers kick panel making a half hearted noise, but no noise from the pump. At this point I was wondering what could have happened, as the pump is brand new, and it was working last time because I was able to start the car. I left the key in the ON position, and went looking in the engine bay. I touched one of the fusible links out of pure coincidence, and I hear a clicking in the engine bay and the seatbelt buzzer goes off for a half a second. I spend the next minute or two wiggling the fusible link (I believe if you are facing the engine bay from the passengers side, its the top left fusible link in the top left fusible link box.) Wiggling the links would recreate this clicking noise in the engine bay and the seatbelt buzzer activating for a brief second. "Eureka!", I thought to myself, I just accidentally found a lead! So I get into the car, and turn the key to start, and I hear the pump prime. So I turn the key a few times to prime the pump to get the fuel line filled with gas, and I look under the car to verify no leaks, and it all looks good. The only thing that concerned me is the Fram G3 filter isn't completely full, I'll include a photo of it below. Is it supposed to only be somewhat full like that? Also, will not having the fuel damper right off the pump outlet have any effect on the car? Mine doesn't have it. At this point I reconnected the spade connector going to the starter and tried starting the car. After about ten seconds of cranking it ran, albeit really rough, smoothed out somewhat while continuing to run, for probably a minute or so, maybe more, then it eventually died. So I tried starting it up again, and it fired right up. I tried giving some throttle, and it would only rev a small amount. Even with the throttle wide open. The tach isn't working so I obviously have no idea what the RPM's were at, but when I'd try to raise the RPM's by applying throttle, it would only rev a slight amount no matter how much throttle I would give it like I mentioned. This sounds weird, and I have no idea if this is what is happening or not, but it revved so slow and such a small amount, it seemed like the timing was really retarded (I had an old corolla once that I fully retarded the timing on by twisting the distributor, and it behaved similarly, so it made me think about it.) Could this be a timing issue? It just seems weird how the car would take ten seconds of cranking to start, then the next time it would start with a flick of the key. Thank you again everyone for helping me thus far, I wanted to post this because I wasn't' sure if it would change the direction of troubleshooting people were wanting me to take.

I tested it when I installed the new filter and lines, and I believe it was 36~ when running.

I just went out and took a photo of the ignition relay in the car, there is a tiny ground wire that comes off the car side of the harness and bolts to the bracket of the Ignition relay, which was the source of my confusion. The ground wire, however, does not seem to be coming from the ignition relay itself. Picture of the ground wire bolted to the bracket below, and if the relay itself. Picture of the relay; the ground wire I was talking about is clearly visible with it's bullet connector. Goes into the car harness, doesn't look like any ground wire is coming out of this relay, chalk that up to my ignorance! Anyway, it looks to be in good shape but I'm guessing it may likely be the culprit for what is not functioning vs what is (basically only the voltmeter.)

I yield to your expertise, but my relay has an extra ground wire coming off of it that is held down with one screw. I'll run out to the car and attempt to get a clear photo of it. I could very well be an idiot, but I'm 99% sure the ground wire is there, and the part number "25230-89958" is printed on the side. What would cause mine to have the extra ground wire if it wasn't added in 78? It looks factory? Will update when I can get a picture of it (likely within the hour) EDIT: went and looked, no ground wire coming off of it, but there is one bolter to it's bracket (which was the source of my confusion.) Photo in next post. The starter is brand new (I actually forgot to mention that in my original post, my mistake.) The car will crank when warm or hot, it just won't start when hot. The fuel pump activates when the key is turned to start, as does the starter when the spade connector is connected.

Hey there everyone. I'm currently trying to iron out some issues with my car, and if anyone would be kind enough to lend me their advice and insight, I would be very grateful! Huge thanks to @SteveJ for encouraging me to post here! I've got a new to me 1978 280Z (five speed manual) that I am trying to get back on the road. Body wise it seems to be in great shape and overall it seems to be mechanically complete. However, I am having some issues with the interior gauges not functioning. Here is the state of that: *No functionality on any gauge except volt meter - Oil, water, fuel, tach, clock. - None of them are functional. *No functionality of turn signals (but hazards work.) *No functionality of blower motor *Rear defrogger switch appears to illuminate. *All fuses are okay and tested (in the fuse box at passenger kick panel.) *Headlight and wiper functionality are fine, but the interior backlights do not illuminate; **unless a wire is wiggled.** I've traced this down to a red power wire at its connection to the PCB on the headlight switch. Wiggling this wire where it connects to the pcb will make the backlights come on (when the switch is in the position for them to turn on.) I've looked at the FSM and electrical wiring diagrams, and from what I can tell (though I may be wrong), every single thing that is non functional that I've listed above goes through the ignition relay, so I'm leaning towards it being the possible culprit. Again, the only interior gauge that works is the volt meter, and to my knowledge it doesn't go through the ignition relay. With the key on, sometimes the car will spring to life and things like the seat belt warning will come on, but it's only done that maybe once or twice. I placed my hand on the Ignition relay when I cycled the key from off to on, and I can feel something, but I don't know if its really working or if its just stuck and trying to work. It looks fine on the outside, and the ground wire is tight. The wiring looks original and untouched from what I can tell. I don't see any visible splicing or cutting or anything that does not look out of place in relation to what is around it (example: No five year old electrical tape on an obviously 45 year old car.) I've looked basically anywhere I can crawl under and into to look at the wiring harness, and nothing looks damaged that is readily visible. Does anyone have any idea where I could start with this one? I'm leaning towards the ignition relay. Starting and running wise, the car will start and run when cold. However, when warm it will not restart. The fuel pump will prime and activate when ignition is in the start position and the car will start and run, but giving it throttle or trying to restart it in warm is an exercise in futility. I've checked all the grounds in the engine bay and they appear fine. What I've replaced: *New battery *New plugs *New wires *New coil *New distributor cap *New fuel injectors with seals and o rings x6 *New fuel filter *new soft lines from tank to pump (3/8") and FI rated hoses from pump to its next connection, as well as both the feed and return lines in the engine bay connecting to the fuel rail (5/16".) *Added Fram G3 inline filter in between tank feed line and pump inlet In terms of this issue, it was suggested I look at the coolant temp sensor due to it being an issue of restarting when hot. Thank you for the help everyone, I really appreciate it!