NocturnalEmber

Trying to find a better way of saying it... If you put the rim against the hub like you're about to thread the lugnuts on: The drivers side front has studs that stick out past the lug holes. The passenger side front, the studs are recessed inside the wheel. They are the same studs in each hub, I ordered a set of eight and thats what were pressed in, so it just seems weird that the studs on the drivers side would stick out further than the ones on the passengers side when they're the same studs. Do Z's have different front and rear wheels? I took a photo of the driver and passenger side front wheels: Driver side front: Passengers side front: You can see how the studs don't stick out past the surface of the rim on the passengers side, and I can't get it to line up with the other two lugs to get them on. As for the drivers side, I think the lug nuts may also be an issue...The washer on two of them could be freely spun, even though the lug nuts are torqued down, I'm going to try replacing the new lug nuts on the drivers side with the old four lug nuts it had on it before and see if that stops the noise. For all I know the wheel isn't torqued down, and thats causing the noise.

That I have not, I took it around the block twice at a low speed to try and pinpoint where it was coming from then parked it for the night. Now that you mentioned the wheels though...something seems out of place..maybe you are onto something? I had all the studs replaced on the front hubs when I did the wheel bearings, races etc, right? On the drivers side, the lug studs stick out past the rim surface when you have the rim flush against the hub to put the lug nuts on. On the passengers side, they do not stick out past the wheel face. I ordered the same studs, so those aren't different. Are those wheels different or keyed to the front or back on the 78's ? Had a pretty competent machinist press the studs out and in, and he verified fitment before he pressed them in. Edit: This might be unimportant, but I thought I'd mention it. Here are the lugnuts I bought https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1533170&cc=0&pt=7676&jsn=730&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 Dorman 611107. On the drivers side with the lug nuts that stick out past the wheel face, they go on fine. On the passenger side, I can only get 2/4 on, because they won't line up. Maybe theres an issue with the lug nuts? (though when I got the car it only had 2/4 lug nuts, even on the old studs.) But it really is weird to me how the studs stick out past the wheel face on the drivers side rim, but not on the passenger side. The studs are the same, I don't know what could be causing that.

As the title states, I finally was able to start my Z up and let it run/drive it for the first time after buying it (brakes didn't work and neither did the clutch hydraulics; The car was backed into the garage so I didn't want to inhale exhaust fumes trying to let it run.) Now that it can run, change gears, and stop, I'm met with my next line of issues: - Car idles high warm or cold (1,500 rpm.) If let sitting while idling, randomly it will start to fumble and die unless you give it gas, then it generally will return to its high idle. - When driving, it feels like its misfiring a bit. It will respond to throttle and rev, but seems down on power and you can feel it break up in the higher rev ranges when in gear or neutral. Doesn't seem to be smoking or leaking anything, no overheating, temp and oil pressure seem normal. What I've done: Replaced thermotime switch New oil pressure switch New fuel pump New inline Fram filter (off tank) New regular fuel filter All new injectors Checked AFM voltage previously per FSM, readings are fine New distributor cap New NGK wires New plugs Fuel pressure is in the 30's at idle I believe (per inline gauge off the fuel filter.) New Ignition relay (six pin one under the passenger side kick panel) New ignition switch If someone had any suggestions they could think of, I would greatly appreciate it. Excited that she's back from the nether, but given what I've replaced and checked, I'm somewhat at a loss.

Calipers, pads and rotors are all new I'm afraid. I just finished them today. Wheel hubs spun perfectly fine on both sides before and after I bolted everything up.

I took a video earlier tonight. It's hard to tell over the engine noise, but you can definitely hear that rhythmic "thump, thump, thump" I swear it sounds like a flat tire or something, but my tires aren't flat or low on air, and they don't have any flat spots, either. 20240227_011649.mp4

78 280Z. I finally got the car in a position today where I was able to drive it to see what other issues are present. When the car starts to move there is a repetitive/rhythmic "clunk..clunk..clunk" that seems to be coming from the drivers side front wheel area. It almost sounds like if you are driving on a flat tire, but I just checked and aired the tires up, so I know thats not an issue, and I didn't notice any flat spots (the tires are probably insanely old though.) I only took it around the block, and hit second gear maybe once or twice. Hitting the brakes seems to quiet the noise up, but that's also because it gets more frequent with speed. I did change wheel bearings/races on both sides, as well as new calipers, pads, and rotors on both sides as well. Is it possible the spindle nut is too loose? I don't feel any vibration in the wheel when this is happening, but I feel that I can feel it mildly transferring through the car. I'm particularly worried about road testing it more because of this issue, so if anyone has any ideas they can chime in with I'd greatly appreciate it.

Somewhat of an update, I did manage to locate where the other bushing flew off to, but I can't seem to get the shifter to align enough for me to slide the pin through, going to have to get at it from underneath the car from the look of things because I can't see to align it, and it's going to need tapped in based on the resistance I'm feeling.

These are plastic https://zcardepot.com/products/shifter-bushing-kit-oem-240z-260z-280z-280zx# I'm mildly annoyed, it was nowhere close to fitting, and I don't believe my transmission is to blame, either.

Has anyone had any issues with the shifter bushings sold by zcardepot not fitting? I installed the pivot bushing at the bottom of the shifter, and pressed the two bushings into each side of the shifter itself. However, when I tried to stick the shifter in between the ears of the transmission to fit the shifter back into place, it wouldn't fit, the shifter bushings are just too wide. I tried using some moderate force, and one of the bushings was actually pushed out of the shifter itself by the ear on the transmission and flew off into oblivion, so now I'm having to order another bushing. Anyone ever encounter this before? Any searching I've done seems to just yield people using solid bushings or saying how easy the process is, but that shifter definitely did not want to fit in between the ears on the transmission with those bushings pressed into each side of the shifter.

I was looking through the FSM, and I had a question I was hoping someone could clarify for me, it says to ground out one of the wires leading to the blower motor switch in the testing procedure. Does that mean I disconnect the harness plug and ground the chosen wire on the Switch side of the plug, or on the side connected to the car's harness? It says going to the switch, but I just wanted to make sure I didn't have to disconnect or ground a specific side.

I believe I would count that as four, but a picture would do it more justice than me.

So, one of my last electrical issues I am tracking down on my car (78 280Z), is the park lights. They DO work, but they work selectively; I can turn the headlight switch on one turn to activate the parking lights, and the interior/park lights may not activate. However, with some gentle tapping of the headlight stalk when they are in the on position or some moving of the entire switch (rotating the entire turn signal and headlight switch on the steering column) this will also result in bringing the park lights on. Headlights work always with no issues.

The car does have factory AC as far as I can tell. I didn't make one with the parking lights yet, but I will do that now.

The flurry of questions are always appreciated, Steve! 1. Incandescent bulbs 2. Unknown age of the flasher units, presumably factory aged 3. Car is not running during these observations/tests. 4. See #3. Based off of what I have encountered in this car so far, its been untouched (thankfully) on the wiring side of things, and based on how those fuses looked when I pulled them off a few months ago, I think the car literally sat in a garage for quite awhile for oxidation on the fuses like that to set in, though that is just a theory. Same observation when I was looking under the dash at the relays, etc. Nothing looked tampered with, though I realize appearances can be deceiving and I'm not treating that simple visual inspection as a be all end all. I'm wondering if the switches themselves could be the culprit, as the park lights/interior lights can be "persuaded" to come on with some tapping on the headlight stalk when in the on position.

Threads have been created; I appreciate everyone's help here in this one, and ideally I won't need to post in this one anymore, though after I get the car out of the garage I intend to let it run for a few minutes and get up to temperature to more closely get an idea of how it sits; All I established after I replaced the distributor was the car now seems to be at 1,500 rpm at a cold start, and responds well to throttle input, which is hopefully a good sign the issue is rectified, though I still need to replace some things for good measure such as the vacuum lines, etc. While I'm at it, can anyone recommend whether this kit is worth buying? The lines look like they have thick side walls which should minimize kinking, and after re-doing the sequential turbo system in my RX-7 this is a walk in the park, but any feedback on this kit would be appreciated, or recommendations on another one, too. https://hpsimotorsports.com/collections/datsun-280z-silicone-vacuum-hose-kits/products/hpsi-silicone-vacuum-hose-kit-datsun-280z-and-zx-1978-1983

Hey there everyone, My remaining issues I have split into three separate threads, with this one focusing on the turn signals. The past thread got a bit convoluted, but thanks to everyones contributions I was able to solve my main issue (so far), and this thread is focusing on the signals. Originally, the signals didn't work whatsoever. My fuses in the passengers kick panel were not blown, but they were so oxidized, they had built up a ton of resistance so virtually none of my electronics were working, and those that were, were heating up their respective fuse (dome light) or illuminating their respective warning lights VERY dim (Brake light on cluster). Changing all of the fuses in that kick panel resolved those issues, as well as partially resolving my turn signal problem. Now, when I activate my left signal, the signal indicator on the instrument cluster stays solidly illuminated and doesn't flash properly. The right indicator does work as intended (it seems to flash slower than what I'm used to, but that could just be the speed at which the Z flashes its signals.) Hazards function properly, as do headlights and high beams. I have replaced the ignition switch with a Beck Arnley unit, as well as all fusible links with new ones. I also replaced the main ignition relay for good measure. I'm leaning towards the switch itself possibly being corroded, but if anyone could give me a basis on which to start I would greatly appreciate it, as combing through the FSM, I see a few potential avenues, but I don't want to put the cart in front of the horse so to speak.

Hey there everyone, While I finally seemed to have gotten my starting/running issue solved (thanks to the immense contributions to those involved!), my remaining issues I have split into three separate threads, with this one focusing on the blower motor. What I've done so far: *Replaced all fuses and verified connection between the fuses, no fuses are blowing. The switch for the fan speed does not work on *Any* setting. I figured it would be like my old RX-7, where the highest setting just bypasses the resistor entirely and sends straight 12V to the motor, so it would at least work on the highest setting, but alas, it does not. During my past diags, I believe I've verified that there is current going through the fuse box in the passengers kick panel through the AC fuse.

Well, a huge positive update for anyone thats bothered to keep up with this thread for the past sixteen pages. I ordered a secondhand distributor from a known good running car (claimed by seller.) I can't say for sure if the reluctor wheel on my distributor that I pulled off was chipped before I took the wire wheel to the tips to clean it off a bit, but part of me thinks the reluctor wheel wouldn't be that weak to chip off like that with a wire wheel brush and minimal force, but again, I haven't worked on a distributor powered car in awhile, and I've never cleaned a reluctor wheel until now. So I installed the "new" distributor after cleaning it up a bit, installed the cap and rotor, reconnected plug wires, etc. I started the car and it fired up and the RPM's immediately shot to 1,500 and held there, which I assume would be characteristic of a cold engine, as thats typically where I've seen them hover. I gave it some gas, and the stumbling was gone, the car revved happily, with the tach reflecting that. At this point it was burning some oil though, blue smoke was filling the garage, so I shut it down. I'm not sure if that's just from how long it sat, or if theres an issue with valve seals or piston rings, but it's my goal to get the car out of the garage and into the driveway in the next week, change the plugs out, and just let it run and get up to temp and see how it works. I need to bleed the brakes and install new pads/rotors on the front (and a caliper, the right front was sticking I believe, but I bought two new ones, so that's going to happen as well.) At any rate, The main problem *Appears* to have been solved with the replacement of the distributor. Whether more issues will show their face now that the car is actually firing correctly remains to be seen, and I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case. I'll have a more full report to make once I can let it idle for a few minutes and get up to temp, but as of now, it starts and runs much more clean, I can give it throttle and let it rev as high as it wants, where before it would hit a wall at 700~ rpm and just refuse to rev no matter how much more throttle was applied, and adding throttle could even cause it to die. A minor victory, but a satisfying one! I still need to figure out the issue with the blower motor not working on any setting, and the turn signal only working on the right (slowly), not working on the left whatsoever, and the back lights not working all the time when the headlights are on, most likely the switches if I had to guess.

Sorry about that, I figured when you said grab it to see if it had play, I assumed it was sufficient. Time to break out the feeler gauge. But I imagine even if it tests within spec, it looks like a piece is broken off both the pickup and the reluctor, so I should probably look at replacing those.

The reluctor wheel when it was on the distributor itself didn't have much side to side play, it felt pretty secure. The only play I noticed was I could spin it back and forth a tiny amount. I'm guessing for that second one thats the plug going to the ignition control module under the passenger side of the dash I would be testing? Just my luck though, it looks like the reluctor wheel and pickup are NLA. So I'd have to risk secondhand. or upgrade to a zx distributor, but most of the guides I see are for 240z's, need to do some digging.

I think I might have discovered another problem, or maybe the problem, I have no idea. So given my talk recently about the two caps and if they were different or not or if I was just not remembering correctly, I decided to go out there and pull both caps off and compare them side by side. I didn't notice too much of a difference, so I guess the plug wires were just skewing my point of view. However, I did notice there was a chunk of black plastic laying in the distributor. I had no idea what it was from, either. So I pull it out and look it over. I decide to investigate more, and i pull the pickup off and take a look at it. I have no idea if this plastic is from the pickup or not, but it looks like it *May* be from one of the sides of it. I have no idea if the pickup is in decent condition or not, as I've never seen one aside from this one. What I did notice though (I tried to clean the reluctor wheel off with a wire wheel on my drill at low speed by brushing it a few times against the points to maybe clean off any contaminants but without shaving material off) It looks like part of the wheel is actually missing some of the material on one of the points. Could this be what is causing my issue? Pictures below.

I took the old cap off and transferred the plug wires one by one systematically. There isn't any marking on the new NGK cap to signify what Cylinder #1 is, so I had to go by lining the caps up side by side for a visual. I suppose its not really that visible in the pictures, but the plug wire holes at least to me don't seem to be in the exact same positions. They aren't horribly off, but it seems like the two caps are slightly different. the NGK cap on the right looks like its plug holes are slightly off in their positioning compared to the oem cap on the left. Maybe I'm just seeing things at this point. Like, if you compare it to this example I found online, my plug wires follow that cap, but the OEM one I showed a picture of previously next to my NGK cap/wires looks different. The OEM one with the taped #1 looks like where the #4 would be in this picture below, but the #1 taped wire is on the hole that has the notch for cylinder #1, so it can't be wrong. I suppose I might just be seeing things.

I took some photos of the old cap (left) and the new NGK cap on the right. I did my best to align them with where the retaining clips would latch onto the cap from the lower part of the distributor itself. It looks to me like they are in slightly different positions, but this could just be me, or if they are, then maybe it doesn't matter? I also included a picture of the wheel/reluctor and pickup, as well as the new and old rotor (new on right).

I swear when I installed the new cap, the cylinder position seemed different, but I'll double check in a few minutes and get a picture for everyone. At the time, I hadn't worked on a distributor driven car in forever, plus its an NGK cap, so I figured it wasn't anything to be worried about, but now that I'm essentially trying everything in the book so far and still have this issue, I'm starting to be overly cautious.

I haven't checked the ignition timing yet, waiting on a timing light to arrive, but thats my next stop. In the meantime, I did confirm that the thermotime and coolant temp sensors appear to be correctly connected. I also took a picture of my distributor; The old cap had slightly different positioning than the new cap I put on, but I assume this is the right positioning for the plug wires.