72 Datsun 240z

Do i still need to pull the water pump to inspect and flush the radiator to determine if its blocked somewhere? 20250625_170637.mp4

Maybe i should try to do the radiotor test removing the thermostat to see if the water flows or not!

Long story short, the mechanic i was using in Panama was a total mess. He charged me usd400 for adjusting the carbs, blocking the pcv valve and a bunch of crap such as removing the thermostat and else. The thing is today i installed a mishimoto 167 degrees thermostat, filled up the radiator with water and crancked the engine. I started hearing a strange whistle coming from the water pump and noticed that the water did not flow even accelerating the car. Isnt this strange? Water pump dead or blocked radiator? VID-20250622-WA0013.mp4

Thanks just had the shop replaced both front shocks. 20 each in labor! Now i need to move on to the rear ones. Anything i should consider? Any precautions?

But whats wrong with rockauto? Arent these ones good shock absorbers? Other suppliers are more expensive.

Motorsport is ok. But you have to call them by phone to get your order sorted out. Isnt Rockauto easier or are these different quality shocks?

https://zcardepot.com/products/kyb-front-shocks-struts-240z-260z-280z?srsltid=AfmBOoriVW4h-_3WRprZ41sp8sF_qxqnJ0CDZWmNcWfHwZ4lcc32N5s1 Will these one fit my 1972 240z? I would like to change the complete set. For certain both front shocks are worn. Is there a better supplier or is this one ok?

Im just asking for good quality absorbers ths has nothing to do with the vapor lock condition leading to rough acceleration.

Mechanic is still at Orlando. Meanwhile i need to sort the shock absorber issue. KYB?

Shop changed the motor oil in my engine yesterday and noticed both front shock absorber were worn. Any reputable and recommended brand for the 4 shocks? Any additional parts i should get?

My 1972 240z is rarely used as it is not in perfect driving conditions. It misfires when temperature rises at idle during traffic jams. However, i need to change the engine oil. Should i purchase for 5 liters of 10w30? Or is there something better for this engine?

What i meant is that i used to rev the car from 800 rpm to 8000 when i finished driving and parking the car back. I usually dont do it that often. Anyways i found a spare used pcv valve to replace the old one which according to mechanic was making plugs 4 and 3 foul due to oil. He capped this one and tuned the carbs so i could drive the car this way. I was wondering if i should keep testing the car this way? Or should i wait untila new pcv valve arrives.

I only rev it up after driving for 30 mins once parked.

Panama regulations does not require such emission stock gear. Its been removed. Still concerned i cannot make my engine rpm go over 6000 rpm at idle when fully warmed up and parked.

Well he is a mechanic and used to also race a camaro single carburetor car. He is 69 years old. Ill guess ill just wait for the new parts to arrive.