72 Datsun 240z

Do i still need to pull the water pump to inspect and flush the radiator to determine if its blocked somewhere? 20250625_170637.mp4

Maybe i should try to do the radiotor test removing the thermostat to see if the water flows or not!

Long story short, the mechanic i was using in Panama was a total mess. He charged me usd400 for adjusting the carbs, blocking the pcv valve and a bunch of crap such as removing the thermostat and else. The thing is today i installed a mishimoto 167 degrees thermostat, filled up the radiator with water and crancked the engine. I started hearing a strange whistle coming from the water pump and noticed that the water did not flow even accelerating the car. Isnt this strange? Water pump dead or blocked radiator? VID-20250622-WA0013.mp4

Thanks just had the shop replaced both front shocks. 20 each in labor! Now i need to move on to the rear ones. Anything i should consider? Any precautions?

But whats wrong with rockauto? Arent these ones good shock absorbers? Other suppliers are more expensive.

Motorsport is ok. But you have to call them by phone to get your order sorted out. Isnt Rockauto easier or are these different quality shocks?

https://zcardepot.com/products/kyb-front-shocks-struts-240z-260z-280z?srsltid=AfmBOoriVW4h-_3WRprZ41sp8sF_qxqnJ0CDZWmNcWfHwZ4lcc32N5s1 Will these one fit my 1972 240z? I would like to change the complete set. For certain both front shocks are worn. Is there a better supplier or is this one ok?

Im just asking for good quality absorbers ths has nothing to do with the vapor lock condition leading to rough acceleration.

Mechanic is still at Orlando. Meanwhile i need to sort the shock absorber issue. KYB?

Shop changed the motor oil in my engine yesterday and noticed both front shock absorber were worn. Any reputable and recommended brand for the 4 shocks? Any additional parts i should get?

My 1972 240z is rarely used as it is not in perfect driving conditions. It misfires when temperature rises at idle during traffic jams. However, i need to change the engine oil. Should i purchase for 5 liters of 10w30? Or is there something better for this engine?

What i meant is that i used to rev the car from 800 rpm to 8000 when i finished driving and parking the car back. I usually dont do it that often. Anyways i found a spare used pcv valve to replace the old one which according to mechanic was making plugs 4 and 3 foul due to oil. He capped this one and tuned the carbs so i could drive the car this way. I was wondering if i should keep testing the car this way? Or should i wait untila new pcv valve arrives.

I only rev it up after driving for 30 mins once parked.

Panama regulations does not require such emission stock gear. Its been removed. Still concerned i cannot make my engine rpm go over 6000 rpm at idle when fully warmed up and parked.

Well he is a mechanic and used to also race a camaro single carburetor car. He is 69 years old. Ill guess ill just wait for the new parts to arrive.

My mechanic argues that the cause for plugs 3 and 4 fouling was due to a damaged pcv valve. I found one around my deposit. How can i ascertain this one is indeed working? How can i clean it?

What kind of problems?

Well in Panama we have 91 and 95 octane ethanol free gasoline. My car has the original manifold. I only have heatshield installed under the carbs. Maybe its time to consider ceramic coated headers. Thanks for your advice.

Namerow, You are probably right. Ive spent so much money in parts and mechanics in Panama. Luckily, after 11 years of having purchased this car, this is the first mechanic who got all 6 spark plugs tanned correctly due to PCV valve not working correctly. I still have my theory of vapor lock and will remove the a/c condenser and fan i previously installed for the AC in my car. Do you think i need to leave the gas return line open for the car work better. (Airtex 8012S electric fuel pump)

Any recommendations for quality parts: 160 degrees F thermostat maybe Mishimoto brand Alternator belt. Mechanic says the one installed could be sliding and i should get a tighter fit. Pcv valve

Car was tested and leak down test was accomplished. Drove 30 minutes with no pcv valve connected and no thermostat to avoid engine temperature rising got stucked in short traffic. Car still got some rough idle when getting out of traffic until temperature went back to normal. Parked the car and all plugs were burning ok. So this could be a vapor lock or percolation problem. Leak down and compression test got good results. Do you still think i need to take the head out? He did blocked the fuel return line as i have an airtex 8012S electric pump installed and says no need to have that line opened.

We are testing the car again tomorrow morning. I do notice some backfire when releasing the gas pedal maybe its due to the closing of the damaged pcv valve which permitted the oil flood of plugs 3 and 4. Car is not even reaching over 6000 rpms. A lot of misfire after getting out of traffic.

This new mechanic says the pcv valve is shut. We are making a test drive on monday again and see what happens. The car is also now driven with no thermostat.

Plugs pulled and with the pcv valve shut there is a difference in plugs 4 and 3 no more. However the initial problem is still there. If i accelerate the car in neutral and idle when warm it only reaches 6000 rpm. It struggles to go over those rpms. First picture top to bottom 6 5 4 3 2 1 Second picture plug 4

We are still in Panama. Trump is making life in Europe very expensive. Im pulling out the 6 plugs and revert shortly.