280zgod

Well I'm confused. I thought with the 280 tach you didnt need the adapter or so I've heard from people. And as for that trigger I have no idea. But anyway in all cases I'm just gonna call MSD tomorrow bright and early and ask them about this. Thanks guys. But its over my head.

I figured it out. I dont have to buy anything. All that need be done is connect the harness MSD gave me to the two wires that go in the dizzy correctly, so positive to positive and negative to negative, and that will solve that connection. Only thing is i'm not sure which wire is positive and which is negative on the distributor...the red or the green.

ok so yeah i scoped out the install in my z today and i found everything but i wasnt sure on that magnetic trigger thing. MSD gave me wires to hook up to the magnetic trigger thing but do i have to buy that or is that just the fancy word for the two wires that go to the dizzy? Also it has that tachometer hook up...umm i wasnt sure what to do with that do i splice it into my tach wiring? thanks for the help.

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone has done this before and could warn me of any problems i might run into. I have the stock FI system. Also I was wondering what plug wires you all used for this setup. I tried to get MSD wires from Tognottis and a few other places but they say MSD has no plugs available for the Z so any input would be great on these inquiries thanks.

Well then guess i dont need to change the gap any i should probably lower it. That would explain the crappy running of my car lately and maybe the sudden gas mileage drop. But yeah its not a track car just a weekend warrior 4-7k power is what im aiming for. Thanks guys.

Hey everybody. Ive got an L28 that I'm setting up for high end power. I've got a stage3 cam on the way and some minor mods and i was wondering if i needed to change my spark plug gap to accomodate these new changes with the cam and all. At the moment I have the gap at .040mm and the car seems to run smooth at low rpms but backfires like mad at high rpms and sometimes it lags when i try to accel so should i be running my gap lower say .025 or what? Or if anyone could explain to me the science of gapping I'd be very happy. Thanks everyone.

well looks like i have the one on the left so r200 which is what end ratio 4.11 or3.9 anyone know?

hey everyone ive got a 75 280z with a 5spd not sure if thats an original but anyhow. i wanted to ask you guys how to check for which differential i have r200 r180 whatever. cuz i have no clue and knowing would be helpful. thanks. late.

wow i wrote this huge long answer to all three of you and it didnt post it so here we go ill try and condense this time. Ed, The limited amount of money thing was just when i was talking about building my dream 240 later on in life. sorry to confuse you. i know i need to buy new springs, rocker arms, lash pads, the whole nine yards not just the cam and i was planning on getting the valve job done too. thanks for your advice on the compression and cam choice. Beandip, yeah shifting from 4500rpm into second gear does leave you pretty much at 4500 rpm but im talking about pushing redline. i mean when i shift from first at 6500rpm into second and then from second at 6500rpm into third. third has a massive setback in rpm there it goes from 6500 to probably 3300-3500, which is out of the cars main power band which i belive is 4400-6500 or higher perhaps. thats where the lag comes in cuz from 3300-4400 or even 4500 its a slow climb then the car rips through the rest of the gear. i wanted to know if a cam could somehow end that little gap. thanks for the info tho much appreciated. Gav, I'm sorry I don't understand gear ratio numbers. It's nonsense to me. But umm entire 1st gear range is 0-35mph, 2nd gear is 10-65mph, 3rd gear is 25-115 mph, 4th and 5th i dunno ive never dared go that fast. but if from that you can somehow tell what my rear end gear number thing is whether 3.9 or 4.11 or whatever i would appreciate and thanks for the tip. And if 115 sounds crazy for third compared to how any normal Z should be then my speedometer might be off but playing with the police departments radar gun said my speedometer was on so i dunno. Other info: the car had a valve job or cleaning about 2 years ago and then the previous owner let it sit for a year and then i bought it like 9-10 months ago. and it has a 5spd tranny and 270k miles on it still original engine to my knowledge. but anyway im rambling off again thanks for all your help guys i really appreciate it. late. PS this one was shorter then the first post i originally made to answer you guys hehe.

sorry to not fully answer your questions ed but i have an n42 head and block with compression of 115,130,130,130,130,90 approxiamately thanks again

well thats a lot to consider. first off i will be using it daily because im 18 and its my only car for college. secondly its an l28 with a header and straight pipes with the stock FI and minor intake mods but im also planning on oredering the performance throttle body from msa. im gonna definitely say it has no port work cuz the guy who owned it before didnt know what he was doing with this thing, poor baby. I have newly replaced stock points as well and as for brakes havent found a need to upgrade mine. they stop quite smoothly and i usually downshift. im not trying to make this thing into a track car cuz its not my ideal z for that and i dont have that much time or money anyway. ill do that after college. just for now i want a car thats hot on the street with a lil bit more go then its got. just wondering which of these cams would do that for me. the main thing is i want a cam that wont make third gear have such a lag til it hits its power. 0-65 is lightning quick shifting into second is like running through 1sts main power band again but then i hit third and it accels slowly for about 750 rpm then starts to kick up again like 1st and 2nd. just wanted to know if anyone has that same feeling in theirs or not and if a cam with certain specs could compensate for that. wow i talk alot sorry hope you can understand what im saying thanks for the input so far i appreciate it

Hey everybody im looking at MSA performance cams and i wanted to ask if anyone knew which of these two cams would be better for 1/4 mile racing. (intake/exhaust) Cam A which is lift: .480/.480 duration: 274/274 or Cam B which is lift .460/.460 duration: 270/280? All imput is much appreciated. Later.

Hey everybody! Ive owned my Z for about a year now and ive noticed that for my Z (75" 280) I should have an oil pressure reading of about 47-53psi but its always been about 20psi. Is there any serious problem that could come from low oil pressure or do any serious problems cause low oil pressure? I'd really like to know since i plan on keeping this car forever. Thanks.

yeah im guessing its my manifold leaking cuz i looked under the intake and to my surprise not one of the head studs had the giant washer and nut on it so i went out and special oredered the 6 of each of those i needed those washers are dang expensive man 2$ a piece so it came out to like 15 since i needed another few head studs from when i broke them hehe anyways hopefully when the parts come and i tighten down the intake my problem will be solved thanks for your input everyone and to answer the last post yes it is a single gasket for intake and exhaust you must remove both to change it thanks again later

well in response to 2manyz's questions everything seems to be fine all the hoses are connected and i havent checked the timing yet but i dont think thats the problem since the car runs fine when you drive it it just has no torque i guess you could say i fly thorugh a gear and get almost no speed from it and as for the plugs the first five came out white and the sixth came out black and wet with like oil on it or maybe halfburned gas or something so that was really weird id say maybe i blew a cylinder but the car doesnt smoke and it runs fine starts easy just dont know where all my power went and why it idles at 2000rpm constantly again sigh thanks for your help ill keep trying to mess with it but if this keeps up im switching to carbs i think

there is no O2 sensor on my car with FI that is all i ahve to say about that

haha well after fiddling with my car a bit and reattaching the egr it will now idle correctly but it still has no power

hey guys just to add to your 3.1 idea and a lil more. First off at courtesy nissan in texas they have the same big bore kit for only $1,200. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_borekit Second, most of the L28 blocks can have this bore kit done to them and some can even go to 3.2L if you get bigger pistons for them. But, if you go that road dont count on ever getting that engine redone again get a spare block Thats what I'm looking to do this summer already found a machine shop that will do it all for me except reinstall the enigine in my car for about $300 and i already got a spare block just in case. Anyways enjoy the info and the savings if you end up with the bore and stroek later guys.

I have FI i removed the egr valve thats all and the exhaust guy didnt have acces to under the hood so to speak the hood was down and the car was locked he didnt disconnect anything and about O2 sensors i thought it did but im guessing that what i thought was the O2 sensor was really the catalyst sensor haha other then that i didnt disconnect anything else to my knowledge oh yes but one strange thing on reinstalling my fixed gas tank ive noticed that the fuel guage isnt working any longer even though me and my friend charted the wires and rehooked everything like it was so would the guage and wires saying i have no fuel cause the FI to run wrong? i know this is alot of stuff to ask for but im really mad that my car ran better stock and after having it out of commision for like 5 months now that makes it even worse im sure alot of you sympathize and thanks for your help its much appreciated

here are the symptoms if that will help: must idle at 2000rpm or else it will die but it may also idle at 500rpm and jump sporadically, extremely slow accel, on decel the rpm stays at 2000rpm unless the gear you are in is at a higher rpm range, it is running hotter now then it did with the stock setup and the headers i bought are ceramic coated and supposed to help cool the engine, every now and then it lags during accel: thats all i can think of thanks again. Another note my egr valve is disconnected from the thermostat thingy.but it is still fully on the manifold

Hey all. I finally got my entirely new exhaust sytem from MSA. The whole deal, headers, and the twice pipes exhaust system. I had them professionally installed and the car runs like crap. My Nissan 720 pickup is now faster then my Z i almost cried i mean 650$ to screw up my Z? Anyways just wanted to explain the situation before I asked if anyone has had a similiar problem? thanks please help me!

mine has an O2 sensor that was hooked in behind the cat and mine is a california version so it did have an O2 sensor in 75 cuz thats when the laws started the rest of the country they didnt have them til the zx's i believe

is there any possible way to manually tune fuel injection? im guessing not but since ive never really worked on and i dont know anything about efi i was just wondering thanks

well i got the parts and installed them myself and tested the car to see how it ran with the 02 sensor out and it idles at 2000 rpm or it dies and it has almost no power(extremely slow accel and gears have lost 20 miles per hour each) so hopefully getting the 02 sensor put in the system will make it work right i dunno though

alright then so it is needed no matter what. well thats no biggie then rather then take it to a machine shop ill do it myself its just welding a nut into a pipe pretty much. besides my parts havent even come yet i have my z sitting in the garage exhaustless all the way to the head. while im on the subject of parts anyone know of a performance comp or anything to boost the efi system cuz 70's technology seems a bit shaky to me. thanks again for the help