SteveK

Hi hawaiiankine That Triumph guy was talking from below the waistline ROFL Having had a MGB (lard asses, Dated 1800 cc push rod engines see BGT) MG Midget (nippy but run out of steam the 1275 engined pre 74's were the best ) BGT (Dated 1800 cc push rod engines see MGB) TR6 (best of the bunch 120 or 150 BHP mechanical injection, always breaks down and you can never fix the leaks) TR7 (big mistake, end of story) And of course the 240Z It goes without saying that the Datsun L series engine is far, far superior to any of those British engines and as such far easier (and cheaper) to get decent HP out of. To get any of the Brits to breathe properly alone can be a little tricky and pricey as those old heads didnt flow well from stock. The L series however out of the box had good flow characteristics, stick some Weber’s on, exhaust headers, a decent cam and a head skim job and hey presto. As regards handling, it’s even more of a gap. The Z handled well from stock (for its time) but can be made to set the world on fire (after lowering springs, tokico blues, urethane everything, my 30 year old Z will out handle my Alfa Romeo 156 Selespeed --easily) The Brits just didn’t have the right stuff to start with and were living on borrowed time with designs from the 40's and 50's, so from stock they were average and at best reasonable. That’s not saying that for example a TR6 cannot be made to compete against a Z they can, but at what price. There is a company in the UK that restores and rebuilds a TR6 for you from scratch to reasonable spec (180 - 200BHP plus) flatten the suspension out, roll cage, decent brakes, race seats etc, something that will do 130 on a good day and 0-60 in around 7 seconds and they sell those out for up to £25K youch. I could buy a top, top Z, stick a 350 bhp twin turbo in it, 17 inch wheels and serious rubber, trick suspension, leather everything and a class stereo, do 145 mph and a 0 - 60 in sub 6 seconds and still get plenty of change for an ice cream (oh and on a rainy day still stay dry) In the UK there is still a bazaar diehard loyalty to MG’s and TR's (all except the 7) even to the point of serious abuse from these elitist clubs towards the Japanese rust buckets. Being British I should be one of the first to jump to the defence of our glorious motoring heritage but I can’t, they (with the exception of a few, AC’s, Astons,Jaguar, Lotus, Healy’s Mini coopers etc) were pretty poor and deserved to loose their market share BTW daddz I had an RX7 with a 13b engine (later to have a Janspeed turbo on it) and it would trounce an MGB having said that we didn’t and still don’t have all of that emission stuff slowing our cars up Before I bought my Z I thought about going back to a TR6, remembered all of the heartache and pain from leaks, breaking down for no reason at all, part availability and lets face it there are SHED loads of them around in the UK -- thousands of them My 240Z on the other hand is one of only 150 odd 240's that were registered last year in the UK (figures from the Vehicle licensing authority) so you have to drive alone way before you see another and I get so many kids stopping me saying "hey mister" -cool

Muhahahaha :devious: Hey nowt wrong with the "Floyd" owenk Those Zepplin boys were a bit strange though (did anyone really understand "The song remains the same" no, didnt think so what was all that about) Hey I'm in my 40's and still enjoy some decent sounds in my Z

1975yellowBSPZ and 2adz I love that front-end stylee, gives the cars a real road "presence"

Zedrally I'm not so sure I am UK My car is RHD No number on clutch pedal This is a little starnge

Yes I had PrOxLaMuS and you are officially a complete and utter grade A1 nutter in the nicest sense of the word :classic: Dont you get health problems like bleeding from the ears or ruptured kidneys from such a setup.

Hey steveo77 I run 2 Boston 6x9's with custom 40mm ports, in the tools boxes yeah I know, but I would rather have good sound than be historically correct, (duck and runs for cover) 2 x Infinity 5 inch in custom door pods 2 x 6 inch infinities in the rearmost mounts shed loads of sound deadening matting, doors floors you name it, and an amp (200W now) under the passenger seat, all driven off a remote control Blaupunkt Los Angeles. I love my Zed but it has to be the worst car in the known universe for mounting a sound stage in. I changed the alternator out before I installed any audio kit as I wasn’t particularly happy with the stock item and had read a number of tales of woe. Fortunately I am an electrical engineer but even so it is not a difficult task. If you do it, go internally regulated, make a few small changes at the voltage regulator wiring and hey presto you have killed 2 birds with one stone and eliminated 2 points of weakness. There is a good write up around here somewhere that is really easy to follow. At the end of the day its all about taking worry and weakness out of the equation.

Glove box light out Glove box out (5 screws) Undo single screw that holds clock in Undo 2 power leads Remove bulb Remove 2 screws that hold clock front on Remove 3 nuts that hold mechanism in place Power up clock Drop a knats **** of oil onto the pivot bearings Mechanism started moving right away Put it all back together Put it back in car Huzzah! For the first time in goodness knows how long, my Z has a working clock. All in all it took less than a couple of hours, cheers for the advice lads , wish I'd have done it ages ago. An absolute doddle as we would say in good old Blighty Ps I can understand why folks don’t like taking the glove box out, that cardboard inner malarkey could get a little brittle, fortunately mine is in good nick.

Alan May I offer my apologies my post was not meant to offend, I just thought I had been had, as I suspect a number of us did.

3404 on the brake, one-fractured vertebrae later nothing on the clutch Very bloody funny :devious: :devious: :devious:

I know a man that has an "in progress" project with a sprintex supercharger and fuel injection on it, expected to produce about 300+ Hp Saw it the other day and it looks mean as hell, big arches, custom paint, braided steel throughout, custom race gauges and dials, seats, big, big brakes, fabricated adjustable suspension, he's busy playing with his new toy at the mo his brand new 350z one of only a handfull in the UK. He's one of the big names in Z stuff in the UK and what he doesnt know about Z'ds you could write on a cigarette packet in poster paint.

Just a question Does the viscous coupling on the Z have the same bimetallic strip on as some fans or is a straight "dumb" coupling relying purely on the viscosity of the oil and not any form of temperature reaction I have seen both used on differant vehicles thats all (non Zeds)

Hi jeff1216 Yep theres definitely something amiss there I (last week) spent a day on the rolling road (dyno I guess you lot call it) With a stock L24 bottom end, mildly worked Samuri top end, stock cam and valves sizes, tubular header, K&N's and SM needles in stock 240 SU's we got in excess of 120 at the wheels The guy who owns the rolling road is well versed in Zeds and recently spent a week comparing a set of stock SU's with a set of triple webbers and could only get a marginal improvement, Datsun did a very good job of matching those SU's to those heads (well OK all except for those pants flat tops). Yep triples look great but for simplicity, reliability and guaranteed results the SU takes some beating and as someone mentioned will take you into some fairly good HP territory) PS if you go to SU's use the SM needle, gave great mixture linearity and didnt need touching at all (the guy at the rolling road grinds most of his needles)

Just put in a rebuilt bottom end (and unskimmed Samuri head) in my 240 and all pots give 170 PSI, plugs out and throttle open with no noticable variation between them which backs up BambiKiller240's service manual nicely.

Consider this guys What would have happened if that had been a stainless braided fuel line :dead: --- maybe it should be standard trading practice that when a company sells you braided fuel lines, they also supply a fire suppression system.

Stainless steel has a considerably higher resistance than materials like --- like copper for instance, so when your starter kicks over and tries to draw several hundred amps (300 + on full load is not unusual) through a poor conducter that has a smaller CSA (cross sectional area) than the original conducter (proper engine earth strap) things get rather warm. As usual Mr Bambikiller is spot on, the original earth point on the engine is the top bolt hole of the starter and one to the firewall next to the battery.

I recenly refurbished my 240Z seats with some new covers and had exacly the same issues with the aforementioned screws, I used an impact driver to good effect after shearing the kamaza bit I was using (on the end of a ratchet and bar) An impact driver if used properly is a very effective tool.