MariaAZ

My ignorance will show on this one (not much experience with auto repairs here!) Retorquing the head bolts; does that require them to be loosened first? :nervous:

This site has some awesome information, and I've made note of the excellent article in the tech forum. I've never done actual engine work though. Guess I just have to "feel the fear and do it anyways!" Fortunately we don't depend on this vehicle for transportation :eek:

I suspect a blown head gasket. It was blowing white smoke, and a quick check of compression shows the following numbers; 160, 150, 130, 0,140, 175. Not being very knowledgeable about engines, I would think this justifies removing the head (something I've never done & have some anxiety about doing)

I'm working on a '73 240Z with round top carbs that my husband & I bought as a non-running project car last year. We were actually able to get it started & drive it home, but it ran VERY rough. We haven't been able to get it started again. I've checked the plugs & wires, gapped the points, swapped out the fuel pump with no effect. The engine turns but doesn't "catch." I've read in other threads that the ballast resistor can keep the motor from running, but it seems in these cases the engine was revving. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

2Many & Masashi,, you both are being SOOOO helpful! I will definitely check the gallery for the conversion photos, but in the meantime I'm bound and determined to work through this flat top thing! I pulled the plugs today; they appear to have normal wear with the exception of #3, which is wet and smells of gas. The Z is getting horrid gas mileage, and I'm thinking it's burning way too rich. If these were SUs, I'd know how to adjust the fuel mix but these flat tops have me stumped. I read somewhere that worn flat top carbs run rich (one of the carbs was rebuilt by the previous owner only a few months ago) but there are some tricks to lean them out. Any ideas? \

The distributor doesn't have points. According to my Haynes manual, they don't call it electronic ignition; there is a magnet involved. I am totally comfortable working with mechanical distributors, having torn down and rebuilt a few for my Roadsters. The Haynes manual doesn't say if I need to replace anything in this distributor when doing a tune-up. Is there anything I need to tweak (besides adjusting the timing with my stroboscope) in this type of distributor? Thanks!

The round tops will have to wait; I'll have to deal with the flat tops for now. Is it possible to remove the EGR valve with the flat tops? I have a laundry list of things to repair/replace, and the EGR is one of them.

Arizona requires testing every two years for cars built after 1966. The older cars only have to pass HC & CO gas tests versus the "full monte" that younger cars are subject to. Still, doesn't matter; when you fail, you fail

Like Nevada, Arizona requires all cars built '67 & later to pass emissions. Our "new" 260Z failed emissions, which really came as no surprise. Has anyone modified the air pollution control system on a 260 & still got it to pass emissions? I am in the market for round top carbs to replace the flat tops, but am concerned about what to do with all the hoses, etc if I replace the carbs & breather cover. thanks in advance!

I have a '74 260Z that needs a hose to connect the air breather to the air pump (Arizona requires this car to pass emissions & I want to make sure everything is there!) Can someone tell me the size of this hose? Thanks in advance, Maria

I recently purchased a '74 260Z that had the original radio replaced. When pulling the center console out (it is damaged and needs to be replaced) I noticed that nothing but the console faceplate is holding the radio in. I'm assuming that some sort of bracket should be there. Am I correct? I'd like to know exactly what I'm looking for if I need to replace something. Thanks!