SteveJ

Similar pricing, too. I have been texting Shawn from The Unobtanium, and he is interested in producing other parts in addition to the ones he lists on ebay. It's nice that there are multiple vendors willing to help support the hobby.

I'm going to revive this thread for a moment. I have been texting Shawn at The Unobtanium, and I sent him a picture of the nubbins. He asked me to send him one so he can try to reproduce them.

Many years ago, the knob that goes on the seat slider handle in my 260Z broke. I had seen parts on FB from a place called The Unobtanium, and I found they sold their parts on ebay. I decided to get a replacement knob from them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/386245878688 Compared to the aluminum knobs sold by MSA, I figured it was worth the money to get the plastic knob. The new knob is a dull finish compared to the ones installed in the 73 (and in the 74). I think some of the 3D printing artifacts are visible, too. I had to heat it up slightly to slide on. While it may not look original, it's much better than no knob. To me it was worth the money. If you're on FB, you can see some of their parts: https://www.facebook.com/profile/100088893413711/search/?q=240Z Also on their ebay store: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=theunobtainium&store_name=theunobtainium&_oac=1&_nkw=240z

Nice work on the crimping/heat shrink. For the switch lighting: If you want the lights to dim, use the red/blue wire for the dash lights. You can put in jumper harnesses at the gauges. If you don't want them to dim, put in a jumper harness between the dash and body harness where you see a green/white wire. Have inline fuses before you get to the door. (I hope you have inline fuses for the power lock circuits, too.) That way if the wires get chafed, you pop the fuse and don't take out your running lights & gauge lights. For the horn/lights: As the directions say, use relays. The coil for horn relay in the Z is grounded by the horn button. You could put ground the 87 pin of the relay and have the 30 pin going to the horn relay on the same pin as the green/black wire. To flash the lights, if you use method 2 above, you could add a branch of the wire from the jumper harness to the 30 pin of the second relay. You would need 12VDC on the 87 pin. (Don't understand the numbers? Look here: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/22/relays-simplified/) If you want the third brake light to flash when you are making a right turn, that works. If you don't understand what I'm saying, stand behind your car while someone is operating the turn signals and pressing the brakes. (The car needs to be in ON to see this.) 😬 There are two possible ways I can think of off the top of my head: Use wires coming off both turn signals with diodes to go to the third light. Side benefit, the light will flash with your hazards. Intercept the brake light before it gets to the turn signal switch and run a wire back for the third light.

The Georgia Z Club held a Gumball Rally in North Georgia today. There was a pretty good showing, too. These are the basic rules: There will be directions that will NOT be straight forward. Those directions may or may not be correct. There will be clues to things to identify during the drive. There will be a prize for whomever provides the most correct answers to said clues. The tiebreaker will be the total distance of the route. (Note: if you take a wrong turn, deduct the mileage from the total.) A navigator is not mandatory but is highly recommended. Just because you see someone else coming from the opposite direction, it doesn't mean you are going the wrong way. They could be going the wrong way. If you see a sign that says "Welcome to Tennessee", you are lost. If you see a sign that says "Welcome to Florida", you are REALLY lost. The club will not send out search parties for those of you who are lost or REALLY lost. Speed doesn't win. Accuracy does.

Did you want to find something like this? https://www.etrailer.com/Work-Lights/Peterson/M126C.html Or this? https://speedindustry.com/led-door-courtesy-light-pair-for-toyota-86-gt86-subaru-brz

They were installed in Japan, but the wiring is there in your car, just like for the fog lights. I think the NOS supply of step lights was exhausted a few years back.

It is a challenge to get a static document like a wiring diagram to match production changes. The wiring diagrams we have in the FSMs were probably created before the first car rolled off the assembly line for that year. Today we are spoiled by being able to open up a CAD program and fix an error. I don't want to think about what it was like when you had to create these with vellum. I have seen significant differences elsewhere. In the 73 diagrams, it shows several extra wires for the intermittent wiper amplifier. That was confusing. In the 75 manual, it shows the seatbelt interlock relay that was eliminated just prior to the start of the 75 MY production. Remember that the North American 260Z had an extended production year as Nissan was preparing to roll out the 280Z. During that timeframe, the US government walked back the requirement for the seat belt interlock requirements, and I'm sure Nissan yanked that abomination out of the wiring as soon as possible. Then there are errors that crept in, like the representation of the ignition relay for the 280Z that shows two wires going to the same place.

Just remember to run the third terminal to ground.

Here's their website: https://s30.world/fuel-tanks

Here is the thread:

Usually it is the park/tail fuse that gets hot. Corrosion in the bulb sockets can cause the fuse to heat up. Make sure they are clean. If the sockets are clean, switch the bulbs for the parking lights to LEDs. You may want to consider changing all of the gauge bulbs to LEDs, too. Search around this site. I have posted an LED list within the last year. I want to say I was updating it in October.

What year is your Z? Different years have different wiring on the headlight switch. While Dave Irwin's harnesses work great, I do the headlight relays so only someone digging around in the car can find them. Which fuse is getting hot? There are 3 separate fuses involved with the headlights and parking lights. What do you mean when you say, "I am trying to figure out how the parking light harness is installed."? The positive side of the circuit comes off the fuse box and goes up to the steering column. That's where the switch is for the circuit.

I'm not dead, yet. But, no, I don't know the specific term.

How light do you want? https://zcardepot.com/products/copy-of-fidanza-lightweight-aluminum-flywheel-240z-260z-280z-280zx https://zcardepot.com/products/fidanza-light-weight-aluminum-flywheel-240z-260z-280z-280zx?_pos=1&_sid=360548d86&_ss=r And don't forget MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/product/5258/price-drop-kameari-chromoly-performance-street-flywheel-70-83-zzx https://www.thezstore.com/product/3991/high-performance-flywheel-70-83-z-zx-coupe-non-turbo By the way, from what I read the 240mm flywheels have a different bolt pattern. From the ZCarDepot site: New stock replacement flywheel for Datsun 280Z and 280ZX 1975-1983, 2+2 only or Turbo. The 2+2 clutch cover is slightly larger so it has a different bolt pattern. This is a good upgarde from a 2-seater clutch as the 2+2 clutch is larger, but you will need a clutch disk and pressure plate for a 2+2 to work. 2+2= 240mm clutch 2-seater= 225mm clutch

I used this to remove the throw out bearing: https://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63610.html Fortunately for me, I bought it with a 20% off coupon. As you may have seen in the video I linked, the guy used a socket and drove out the bearing. I think I may have used a socket at one point, too. Yep, I did use a socket. I drove it out with an impact gun. Then I drove it the rest of the way out with a mallet. Note: you may want to put it on a block of wood when doing that to prevent damage to the collar.

Here's a video of the throw out bearing replacement in a 260Z. Start watching about a minute in. Why do you want to re-use the throw out bearing? Put a new one on.

You didn't ask.

Yep, I made that mistake before, and then I learned of the warning being posted in various places.

I took the 260Z for a drive today. When I stopped for gas, I could smell coolant, though I couldn't find a smoking gun. When I got home, I looked closer, and it appears I may not have tightened some hose clamps when I replaced the water pump. I'm letting the car cool down enough so I can work on the lower clamp on the lower radiator hose.

I couldn't find it on the 72 wiring diagram, so I'm going to assume it was done the same was as is shown in the 73 wiring diagram. The 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat switch and to the driver seat belt switch. If there is a passenger (or heavy object) in the seat, the 12VDC+ goes to the passenger seat belt switch. If the belt is not latched, the 12VDC+ will go to the neutral switch. Whenever the transmission is in neutral, the 12VDC+ will go to the seat belt warning lamp.

My diet is more like this these days.

I stepped on a talking scale, and it said, "One at at time!"

Yep, I decided to start the "Stop Putting It in Your Damn Mouth!" diet about a month ago, and I'm down 20 lbs. Getting rid of sugar can do that for you. Now I just have to exercise more. I haven't been working on my Zs lately, but I did put a new stereo in my wagon. Does that count? Anyway, welcome back to the living, John. I hope you have a long stay.

That is not a diode. It is a capacitor referred to as a condenser. That is on internally and externally regulated alternators. It was incorporated to reduce electrical noise for the radio. If you have an older stereo, keep it. If you have a newer stereo, you may not need it.