SteveJ

You have a return line. I see a hose attached to it. Like I said before, the capped off line is a vent line for evaporative emissions. If the car is in stock configuration, it has both a mechanical and an electrical fuel pump. Download a copy of the FSM. The link is in my signature. (Hopefully you're not using a phone for this site. You miss out on some good features.) The EF and FE sections have a lot of information on the fuel system in your car. In the meantime, you may want to start tracking down answers to my questions, or pose some questions in response to help bridge the gaps in your knowledge. Continue to figure out what the previous owner(s) changed and document it. Then you can figure out how to make it work right again.

Actually, the red cap is blocking off the vent line. That should go to the carbon cannister The middle line is the return. When is the car sputtering? How have you ascertained there is no fuel flow? Have you put a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel rail and one of the carburetors? How old are the fuel lines? Is the electric fuel pump running? Is the electric fuel pump installed? What is the condition of the fuel filter?

Welcome to the club. We tend to look smarter after we get done wasting our time on dumb things. And thank you for providing your solution. You might be helping someone else in the future.

I marked the TIU. Make sure it is unplugged. The resistor is wrapped in tape. It should be on a blue wire on the engine harness side of the C4 connector. Depending upon how the MSD ignition was wired into the car, that could be affecting your tach signal, too. If you haven't done so already, visit the Resources section of this website and find the factory service manual for the 260Z. (Hint - Look at my signature for a shortcut.) It can help you a lot. For instance, the tachometer wiring schematic can be found on page BE-33.

Considering the 260Z has a Transistor Ignition Unit (TIU), I would call an MSD-6A a change from stock. Is the car running right? If not, that could mean the TIU was not unplugged. That could mess with the tach, too. By the way, a friend got his 260Z tach serviced by Bob's Speedometer (https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/), and he was pleased with how the tach operated after that.

The 260Z tach is essentially the same as the 280Z tach, including the wiring. Don't forget to check the resistor in the circuit. It's over in the passenger footwell area.

Exactly...

IIRC, it's squeeze on the sides and pull.

Well, the intent was to test the EFI relay. Do you happen to have one of those that match the ones earlier in this thread?

Exactly. Does anybody have a spare Bosch relay they want to send me for testing?

The chances are that if it is in the Nissan relay, you'll find it in the Bosch relay since the Nissan system is a licensed copy of the Bosch.

Search for ba9s socket. It looks like the Autometer 2359 socket might work. This may also be a good time to consider changing to LED bulbs to get more light to drive at night.

I can't tell you about warranty, but I've had the Harrington bumpers on my 260Z for around 7 years now. I would suggest going without the rubber strips. I had to fab the front brackets myself for the 260Z, but the rear brackets came from Datsun Spirit. I had to slot them a little for the 260Z.

Try using some starting fluid to get the car to fire.

IIRC, the bulbs in the 240Z ground to the gauge housings. Make sure the contact surface between the gauge and socket are clean, and make sure the gauges are secured tightly to the dash with no corrosion. Finally make sure the dash is secured tightly to the body of the car also with no corrosion in the contact surface.

Here's a rumor about when Nissan will start taking money/commitments... https://www.newnissanz.com/threads/nissan-z-order-books-open-november-15th.406/?fbclid=IwAR0k2V5ggZeZ5ihwHL3M0T13XX11mghp1Fhekem8wsLwgEds6q61eb1vVSQ

NW Pennsyltucky is more like Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Erie or Buffalo. That would be quite a trek for the Captain. @GoldAirWith living in the land that rust forgot (for the most part), why are you considering a Z from the land where rust never sleeps?

LEDs are high resistance and not very voltage sensitive. If you leave an incandescent bulb in that circuit, you'll have a better idea of whether or not the car is charging.

I'd bet that if you used a multimeter on resistance, it would probably have no resistance to the negative post on the battery, provided the battery is connected.

If you are referring to the white wire with red stripe, that connects to the BATT post.

As @Zed Head said, the stud for ground is just above the E in your picture (1). The condenser (2) and the black wire (3) are attached to the stud. If you are missing the nut that goes on the stud, go to your local chain auto parts store and get one of those boxes of assorted metric fasteners (nuts/bolts/washers). It should probably be an M6 or M8 nut. You'll also want a flat washer and lock washer to help secure the condenser and ground wire.

Just a suggestion: if you're parking in a space like that, put the boot on the front tire. If the potential thieves have a tow truck with a grabber, they can pick up the back end and pull the car out easily.

I did some more searching. The hose piece is NLA, as I suspected. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-hose-filler~17229-p8200.html https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-hose-filler~17229-p7100.html You may be able to take measurements of your old hose, if that's what you need, and find parts on this site to fabricate your own: https://www.fillernecksupply.com/1979-1980-1981-1982-1983-nissan-280zx-fuel-filler-neck-gas-tank-pipe/

The steel part may be available here: https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/gas-tanks-components/gas-filler-hose/ I saw a couple that included the rubber coupler on ebay.

Costco has the Quickjack 5000 on sale again. https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5%2c000-lb-capacity-portable-car-lift.product.100460313.html