SteveJ

Probably the easiest way is to use the extractor tools they have on the website: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Tools. Get the set as you will have both 2.8 mm and 6.3 mm terminals that you may want to back out. The terminals have little tabs on them that hook inside the shells. You depress the tab with the extractor tool. It helps to push the wire in a little first. After you get the tab pushed down, you can pull the wire out.

This is my preferred style of crimper to use on the terminals for the connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1JQ1UE/

When it comes to expertise, I'm full of it...wait...that didn't sound right.

No need for load resistors. The Z doesn't check for burned out lights.

2020 SUCKS!

Kenny Ueda just posted that his mother, Johnnie Gable, just passed away. If you don't know the name, Johnnie was Mr. K's secretary when he was in the US. Johnnie was a fixture at many ZCONs. She was always ready with Z car stories and could keep you entertained for hours. She will be missed.

I used PB Blaster on a plug for an O2 sensor bung. The plug wouldn't budge. I tried the Kroil, and I got the plug loose and removed with no thread damage. I should also add that if you look up penetrating oil comparisons, Kroil is usually at the top. https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk03g9LCNLRF-NgNXl6cC20RsdNj0ew%3A1607365501682&ei=fXPOX5qVKcugtQX-gZXYCQ&q=penetrating+oil+comparison&oq=penetrating+oil+comparison&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzICCAAyBAgAEB4yBggAEAUQHjoECAAQRzoGCAAQBxAeOggIABAHEAUQHjoICAAQCBANEB5Qu-0JWMvxCWCr9gloAHADeACAAXWIAbQDkgEDMS4zmAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpesgBCMABAQ&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwjax4GOv7ztAhVLUK0KHf5ABZsQ4dUDCA0&uact=5

Try Kroil instead of PB Blaster.

Just remember to unplug the TIU when using the ZX distributor. Years ago a friend was trying to diagnose a customer's car with a setup similar to yours (triples and ZX distributor). It just wouldn't run right. I asked if he unplugged the TIU. Nope, the TIU was plugged in still. Once unplugged, the car ran like it should. If the resistor is bad, you'll want a 2.2kOhm 1 watt resistor to replace it. It wouldn't hurt to get a multimeter with a tachometer function to see the signal you are getting for the tachometer gauge. That could keep you from throwing parts at the problem.

Don't bypass it. It is there for a reason.

The VIN posted by @lonetreesteve was HLS3056312. What I didn't notice is that it's one digit short. If the missing digit is a leading "0", that would put it in the range for a 72. The 76 VIN should be HLS30270001 to HLS30350000 for a coupe and GLS30030001 to GLS30060000 according to the chart below (though I suspect it might be GLS30003001 to GLS30006000 due to the lower production numbers - unless the VINs were unified for the 75 and later worldwide). They may have got it screwed up in the email they sent him. They wouldn't have re-set VIN numbers, though I think it has been established that VINs are not necessarily sequential. In my observations, it appears that the bumper indentations on rear quarter panels disappeared after 74. Here is a restoration in progress on a 75 that shows the lack of indentations: http://mybuildgarage.com/2010/09/1975-datsun-280z-restoration/ I'm not willing to bet against you for the lack of title or the parts car status. I'm not sure you could get more than a couple of hundred in parts off of that car.

Many people have performed the ZX distributor swap into 260Zs and 280Zs and maintained tach functionality. Did you unplug the TIU? The resistor is most likely on the passenger side. It is on my 260Z, but I can't say for sure on a 78.

Have you verified the resistor in the tachometer circuit is good? Do you have a meter like this to test the signal?

The VIN is consistent with a 72. The rear quarter panels, bumpers, and grill are consistent with a 72. The interior (notice the voltmeter), the tail panel, the engine bay, and radiator support are consistent with a 76. (A friend tried to use a 280Z airbox on a fuel injection conversion of a 260Z and found that the intake piping couldn't pass through the radiator support on the earlier cars.) My guess is that it was a wreck and rebuild at some point.

I would have to look through the manuals to confirm. My wiring changed when I swapped over to EFI. Prior to that, I was just using the stock wiring. You may have to back a wire or two out of a connector. At times like this, Vintage Connections can be your friend.

One thing to note about the inertia switch I linked: in the reviews, people note that you need to move a wire from the normally open to the normally closed contact. It is not difficult to do. I have done it to one of these that I purchased.

That is a little overkill for the 260Z. There isn't a need to prime on a 260Z with carburetors because the car will start with the fuel in the float bowls. If you are looking to cut the fuel pump when the engine isn't running, you can wire the car to use the ignition to power the relay coil and get a 78 oil pressure sender. Swap in a typical automotive relay and wire the negative of the new relay to the grounding terminal on the oil pressure sender. If the oil pressure drops too low (such as when the engine isn't running), the ground opens up, and the coil is de-energized. For additional safety, you could mount an inertia switch to kill power in case of an accident. Inertia switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RBK4873 Oil pressure sender: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=488596&cc=1209260&jsn=1305 As an aside, I found a mystery wire in my 260Z many years ago. It came off the ignition coil positive and was routed through the passenger cabin to the back right. Apparently it was an IPO's effort to hot-wire the fuel pump. I don't know why. The stock wiring was working. I just can figure out how the wire didn't short to the body since the insulation was in poor condition.

Copied from my post in the ZX Electrical forum: Use this code for a 20% discount with Vintage Connections: VCWinter20. It's good through Jan 31. By the way, I had issues with checking out at their site. Apparently the cart functionality isn't what it should be. I sent an email to sales@sparckmoto.com with what I was trying to order and asked them to bill my Paypal. Within minutes (during normal business hours), they responded, and I paid for my order.

Use this code for a 20% discount with Vintage Connections: VCWinter20. It's good through Jan 31. By the way, I had issues with checking out at their site. Apparently the cart functionality isn't what it should be. I sent an email to sales@sparckmoto.com with what I was trying to order and asked them to bill my Paypal. Within minutes (during normal business hours), they responded, and I paid for my order.

Not me, I just fill it with gas.

In the spirit of Zed's search: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1920&bih=937&tbm=shop&sxsrf=ALeKk03rnIbYG8K-MBMQhxcYtL6su6WCDA%3A1607019258459&ei=-irJX-DJG4rasQXUmY_YBw&q=fuel+pump+isolators&oq=fuel+pump+isolators&gs_lcp=Cgtwcm9kdWN0cy1jYxADMgQIABAYMggIABAIEB4QGFDSDFjSDGCEGGgAcAB4AIABa4gBzwGSAQMwLjKYAQCgAQGqAQ9wcm9kdWN0cy1jYy13aXrAAQE&sclient=products-cc&ved=0ahUKEwjgrrCgtbLtAhUKbawKHdTMA3sQ4dUDCAw&uact=5

A good light source for this is to get a regular garage work light like this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bayco-6-Incandescent-Work-Light-Plastic-Cage-With-Hook/16533149 Add a 100W equivalent LED bulb to it, and you can get it into the small places more easily.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rubber+isolators&sxsrf=ALeKk02RUHJ1WA2cTDb9lKNijzCXKkclDQ:1607004680379&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwih-oD5_rHtAhXst1kKHdQdDigQ_AUoAXoECB4QAw&biw=1920&bih=937

It's from Christopher Robin.

Actually, the bypasses that I suggested should not adversely affect the operation of the starter fuel pump relay. That fuel pump relay actually cuts power to the fuel pump while cranking.