SteveJ

I didn't see anything in the options that would preclude you from seeing the album, and @grannyknotwas able to access it. You might try again, and send me a PM if you continue to have issues.

I took the 260Z out to a small car meet called Worship. The people in attendance were hard-core car people, and my car garnered many complements and plenty of interest in the throttle body fuel injection. There was also a modified 70 240Z there, owned by a friend who used to frequent this site. It always feels so great to take the car out for a drive. Here's a link to the rest of the photos from today: https://photos.app.goo.gl/k76JqGTjErk1JcFTA

Chances are that you could use some BSP threaded pipe for the crankcase. I'm not sure what size, though.

I didn't noticed that the site I referenced didn't have the two parts of the part number combined.

Crankcase connector pipe, part number 11830-E3000, http://www.jp-carparts.com/nissan/partlist.php?maker=nissan&type=86&cartype=11&fig=C1401&page=3

Valve cover breather: http://datnissparts.com/valve-cover-rocker-cover-l-shaped-vent-fitting-elbow-datsun-l16-l18-l20b-l24-l26-l28-also-naps-z-z20-z22-with-the-aluminum-cover-13267-23000/

Valve cover hose: https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/braided-pvc-valve-cover-hose-for-datsun-240z?variant=750597969 PCV hose: https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/hoses-pipes-valves-nissan-datsun-fairlady-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/pcv-braided-hose-for-datsun-240z?variant=745241697

1&6 fuel in 2&7 float vents to air cleaner 3&5 coolant lines 4 vacuum line to brake booster 8 positive crankcase ventilation

All three can be accessed without dropping the transmission. You will need ramps or jack stands tall enough to get under the car, though. I haven't messed with the reverse switch in over 20 years, but I think you should be able to find a generic crush washer for the seal. The reverse switch at Rockauto.com shows a rubber gasket. The slave cylinder does not enter the transmission that has the gear oil. If there is a leak there, it may be the sign of a slave cylinder about to fail. (Photos are very helpful to show what you are seeing.)

It could be worse. I was looking at this site on Sunday with my phone, and one of the ads had a browser hijack. Fortunately deleting the data and cookies ended the problem, but it was still a PITA. Have you heard of anybody else getting a browser hijack from the ads, @Mike?

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-117-Electricians-True-Multimeter/dp/B000O3LUEI https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW You can buy different kits with different leads, too. These are high quality meters that will last a long time. My Fluke is over 20 years old. If you want one that can be used as a tachometer for tuning/timing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-78-automotive-DVM/114457613333?hash=item1aa6349415:g:97YAAOSwYzBfgwF0

From what I saw during a quick look at ZCarDepot's site, it looks like they carry the Tabco panels. https://tabcoparts.com/cars/datsun/240z-260z-280z-1970-1978.html

I thought this video was interesting.

I decided to pull the trigger on a set today. Thanks for already giving me the tracking number, @Randalla.

Both, but I think they are different groups. I'm not sure how high the private trades are going, though.

Are you referring to when CO and I were discussing the GM coolant temperature sensor vs the Nissan cylinder head temperature sensor? That was when I was prepping for the fuel injection conversion on the 260Z. As @Zed Head pointed out, the curves for these sensors are not linear. For the CHTS, a resistor in series would keep the curve from moving the left. It would essentially stall out at the value of the resistor. A resistor in parallel would move the starting point of the curve to the right, but the effect could be diminished as the sensor resistance drops if the value of the external resistor was high (needed to keep the curve from starting too far to the right).

Yes, I'm thinking the park function in the motor may be the culprit.

That's what I get for reading posts on my phone and using my old bifocals. It sucks to get old. The alternative is worse. Anyway, that drier can be tossed. I suspect it really wasn't sealed tight, considering the duct tape, so it has seen more than a lifetime of moisture.

I think @S30Driver is correct. That looks like an AC driver to me, and it's definitely not stock.

Nice way to install the inertia switch on a 75-77.

The wiring for the 73 wiper circuit is very different from the other 240Zs. That was the first year for the intermittent wiper setting. I was trying to diagnose someone else's 73, and I found that the wiring diagram in the FSM didn't match the wiring in the car. The wiring for that circuit did match the 74 FSM, though. I suggest that you look at the BE section for the 74 to help you with diagnostics.

Is it a 73?

Sometimes adjusting the rockers can be a challenge. The pivot may also be worn, though I haven't taken enough of the hazard switches apart to know if that could be an issue.

What he said.

The OP's problem is with the hazard switch. If it was functioning correctly, it should switch off the turn signal switch. Since he says the left front flashes when the hazard switch and turn signal switch are on, the hazard switch is not cutting off the turn signal switch like it should. The rocker switch in the hazard switch isn't making good contact with that part of the circuit.