SteveJ

Or if you own or work on multiple Zs. I did comment on the Facebook post to ask if they could make a list of what's in the kit. Of course, it doesn't have the dash harness to engine harness connectors for a 73.

Fantastic photos @five&dime!

I just saw a link to this on Facebook: http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/180?fbclid=IwAR0HVhjrJgKGzxMYHPycwJpWO9Ap0gIyhjS4IIK0YQlwjk7P7wnjk2GxvN0 It could be helpful to someone who needs to repair electrical connections in his/her Z.

Finally had a car show that wasn't cancelled. I just wish it could have been when the temperature was below average.

@siteunseen is the master of searching on this site. There is also this thread that talks about LED headlight installation:

We would need to do some experimenting. Let me know when you're up for it.

I read the FSM and put in that amount. I just make sure there is a way to let air out the breather as I fill through it.

I cheated and filled through the breather.

I changed the oil in the 260Z today. That was just the warmup for the real work. I bought some of Derek's 280Z speaker enclosures a couple of months ago. (https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/53157-280z-kick-panel-speaker-pods-in-development/) I got them for my 260Z knowing that there would be some modifications. I had to cut away some material at the top front of the driver side enclosure to clear the hood release cable, and I had to cut away some material at the top of the back of the passenger side enclosure to clear the fuse box. Otherwise, I didn't have to modify them much. I did use some wide strips of velcro to help secure the enclosures to the kick panels. Now I just have to finish wiring the speakers to the stereo.

These posts may help you:

I don't know what brand MSA is selling, but RockAuto had Timken bearings. That's what I put in mine per the recommendation of a friend who has been working on Z cars for 30+ years.

I took the 260Z on a local "Maskparade" tour. I had the only old Japanese car out there, and it did draw some attention before the tour started. However, many more people came by after we were done. It was fun to get it out on the roads, and it drove so well.

The first things to do: Check the fuse as @zKarspointed out. Consider trying to clean the fuse contacts. (Disconnect the battery before attempting this.) Roll up a small piece of 800 to 1000 grit sandpaper and rub it where the fuse box holds the fuse, or use a wire brush on a dremel tool. Take apart connectors C-3, C-4, and C-5 and spray them liberally with contact cleaner such as Caig Deoxit. They could have seen some corrosion from water infiltration.

Note that both the circuits for the hazard lights and brake lights/turn signals go through the hazard switch. You may have fixed one problem while creating another. Look at this and perform continuity checks: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/early-hazard-switch/

Dig through this: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/

I don't think you're in the minority right now. Hang in there and reach out to your fellow Z people as needed.

Tell him to get rid of the downdrafts. Get a set of SUs and do a Patton Machine fuel injection. The 260Z is pretty much ideal for that conversion.

September 2020 in Nashville would be nice...I know I'm hoping for that target.

It's not rocket surgery. Use the toilet model again. If you bend the arm down, it cuts off sooner. Why? Because it is indicating that it is full even though the water is not as high as it was when the arm was straight. If you bend the arm up, it fills up more because the float isn't being lifted up as soon to indicate it's full. Heck, if you bend it up enough, it won't cut off because the water will go down the overflow since the arm won't go high enough to activate the cutoff. So if the gauge is reading empty at 9 gallons, the float on the sending unit is higher than it should be (or there is some other problem that we don't know about).

Don't look at me. I just post here...

So @kats, does the car look legitimate? I know better than to guess anything about a 432 or 432R.

No. I am saying "bend the arm down". If that happens to straighten the arm, that is coincidence. The point at which you attempt to bend is entirely up to you.

If you bend the arm down, it will register E later.

I have to agree with Guy.

I have been in contact with him away from this site. He is alive and well.