SteveJ

I would not be surprised if the car started out its life as an automatic transmission car. That would indicate that the wires would be for a neutral safety switch. Assuming the car is starting now, that would indicate the circuit for that switch was bypassed during the swap.

I'm pretty sure it's a BA-9 bulb, so it's likely less than 1A.

This one has a small body, too: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011B2B1W03/360-3070-ND/4509595 It also has metric threads.

This one might work better: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/T102SHZQE/CKN1549-ND/484203

I received the wiper linkage today. I lined it up against my 260Z. The Suzuki linkage is not nearly as wide as the Z car linkage. At best, it could MAYBE be a source for parts, but I'm not even sure about that. I didn't test fit a blade on it. I'm just going to see if I can return it.

Jim, here's another source with lots of choices: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201?k=spst toggle switch

I had the 280ZX distributor working on a 260Z and a 240Z with the ballast resistor. On the 260Z I later bypassed the ballast resistor.

If the delivery estimates are accurate, I should have the wiper linkage by Wednesday evening. I'm going to check with a couple of local friends whom I expect have a linkage handy to compare.

That's why I decided to purchase one, so we could get some clear idea of how well this would work or not work. I'm willing to be a guinea pig for this.

I ordered off of Amazon. It was cheaper there than Rockauto or the chain parts stores. I'll try to remember to take photos when I get it.

I took the 260Z out to a monthly car show that's not too far away from my house. It's hosted by Gateway Classic Cars. There were 4 S30s that showed up, as well as a Z32, a couple of Z33s and a Z34. After the car show, I went to lunch with @Pat Carr followed by a trip over to my favorite warehouse in Georgia. Randy is getting the Fitzy BSR 510 ready for the main show at Amelia Island next week.

Does this help? https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/fuel-tank/to-aug-74

Ryals, I think the Haynes manual may have better pictures of the vent hoses than the factory service manual.

Same here. The car is dark with the bad ammeter. You can have both, but the trick is to find the right spot to wire in the ammeter, probably with a shunt like in the 260Z and 75 280Z (http://www.measurementest.com/2010/08/how-to-measure-current-using-shunt.html). One of the drawbacks to the 240Z wiring is that the ammeter ends up being a weak spot/single point of failure in the electrical system. All of the current from the alternator to the battery flows through it. In theory if that wire got damaged or comes loose from the ammeter, there could be a lot of current flowing to ground in your dash. I have also seen a 240Z ammeter fail because someone hooked up the jumper cables backwards to jump start the car.

Nope, in the 240Z if you lose the ammeter, the car won't start.

Don't go there. It's a dark place.

Maybe someone should modify the voltage meter to put a mirror behind the needle to address the parallax error. ?

A father and son brought a 4/71 240Z over for me to work on. The father is the 2nd owner, having bought the car some time in 72 IIRC. The car wasn't running well, so I put on some 4 screw carburetors that took off the 260Z last year. That helped a lot. They are looking to sell the car since the father can't get in and out of it so easily anymore. I'm trying to get it in as good as shape as possible without incurring too much expense on their part to help increase the value. It has some dents and dings, but otherwise the body seems to be in very good shape. The car has suffered from benign neglect over the years, but someone may end up with a jewel.

Also mentioned here:

No, they are Hoosier racing tires. Randy emailed that they are 25x15x15, though it was from his phone, so I don't know if there are any typos. He still has two of the original wheels that BRE used. The other two were damaged when the car wrecked in 77 (I think).

Which, of course, is proof that his technical skills aren't too strong.

Too funny. I believe that is @Diseazd's collection. @Mike - You may want to take a look at that.

I reached out to Randy Jaffe. He owns the 46 car in Trisha's post, and he has studied the BRE cars in depth. The originals use 14x7 LeMans wheels. The wheels he currently uses are VTO 15x7 running Hoosier racing tires due to the lack of racing rubber for 14 inch wheels. (The Goodyear you see in the pics are from a stencil he created to replicate as much as possible how the car looked in the day.)

I was actually there the day before doing some electrical work for Max. I also got to meet Jim Downing at the track he bought across the street from Road Atlanta. Jim took me for a ride in his car on the track.

Just to pile on...Lead acid batteries work because of the semi-reversible chemical reaction. The lead plates eventually react with the sulfuric acid to produce lead sulfate since that compound has a lower energy state. The speed and finality of the reaction is dependent upon how much and how long you discharge the battery. Eventually semi-reversible becomes irreversible. So why does capacity drop so much with little changes in voltage? Think of battery as a water tower. The pressure is proportional to the height of the water tower. As this particular water tower gets older, the inside is getting filled with sediment, and the sediment is also going down the pipe and sticking to the inside of the pipe. When you measure the water pressure (voltage), it still looks good, but with the pipe out of the water tower getting clogged, you don't get any water flow (current). Since the inside of the tank is also filled with sediment, the water empties quickly, and you have no pressure. (The voltage goes to zero.)