SteveJ

In theory is should be the #teeth old pinion/#teeth new pinion. Since you're going to a 20 tooth pinion gear, it should register 95% of what the 19 tooth pinion gear did. That would mean it would register about 81 MPH if the 19 tooth gear was registering 85.

It's not just software, Len is designing a "replacement" ECU that can be enhanced with sensors not available on the 280Z when it came out.

Are you clicking on the Hotel link at http://zcon.org? Are you choosing dates from 12-20 September 2020? I just tried it, and there are rooms available. I do not know if there are any issues with booking if you are not in the US. I set my reservation from 13-20 September and didn't have any issues. You can reserve the hotel room without registering. Registration should be open later this month. The committee is still ironing out details.

You can book a room at the convention hotel for $139/night +tax. Go to http://zcon.org and click on the Hotel link. I have my reservations.

It's the "Batman angle" of the photo that's fooling you.

1) Go to the Files section here (see the link in my signature) and download the 1978 FSM. The EF section has the information you're asking about. For the pinouts, look at EF-22 through EF-24. 2) I do not recall specifically, but component tests are in the EF section. I might be nice and find it for your, but the World Cup Rugby match is about to come on TV. (Priorities!) 3) I like a dremel and wire wheels. Coat anything you clean with dielectric grease to slow down corrosion.

Philip, a Honda is NOTHING to kill yourself over.

We had a Georgia Z Club gathering at the warehouse where one of our members keeps his cars. The newly fuel-injected 260Z ran great, too. It didn't hurt that the temperature was about 20 degrees cooler than it had been earlier in the week.

This picture may help.

There is a Santa Paula in California. There are some members from around that area, too.

When you hold the can upside down, the contents come out as a liquid since the chemical is a liquid at that pressure. Upon exiting the can, the chemical immediately starts to expand, though some of it will stay a liquid for a short time. As it expands in the transition to gaseous phase, the chemical absorbs heat, significantly cooling what the liquid is in contact with. In this case, if the ignition module is overheating and failing, the immediate cooling could revive it. To give another example that a large portion of this board can relate to: Old-timers would use CO2 fire extinguishers to cool their beers when there was no ice available. The CO2 was under pressure in the fire extinguisher, so spraying it on the cans of beer would provide them with a cold beverage in a very short amount of time. Of course, it was a real pain when they had a fire and found all of their fire extinguishers empty.

Take a can of air with you when you drive. If the car dies, hold the can upside down and spray the module. If it comes back to life quickly, you have your answer.

Interesting. It either wasn't behind a paywall when I was at work or there is something about my workplace domain that allows me to get through the paywall.

https://www.google.com/search?q=When+Datsun+Met+Corvette%2C+Sparks+Flew&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS814US814&oq=When+Datsun+Met+Corvette%2C+Sparks+Flew&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l2&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 ?

So I took a little time tonight and installed the idle air control valve. It's getting crowded on top of the intake manifold now. On the bright side, I don't have to pull up on the choke handle to let extra air through at cold idle.

After taking the car on a trip and hearing a LOT of pinging on acceleration, I decided to check the timing. It was WAY too far advanced (like near 30 degrees). I dialed it back to 15 and took it for a drive. The pinging was gone. I still need to do some data logging, but the car drives very nice now.

It's in Randy's possession. He is thinking of restoring it.

I took my 260Z on its first outing since installing the fuel injection. I need to adjust the timing, but it drove nice. I was joined at Caffeine and Chrome by @Tirnipgreen and a couple of other Z car friends. One of those friends decided to drive his Skyline. My Z isn't a bad background for it, I think.

Not in the US model year notation.

Something doesn't line up here. A 1991 Z32 would be in the second year of production. A VIN ending in 00008 would more likely be a 1990 car.

Just to be clear (no pun intended), is this the Vintage Glass you are doing business with, Jim? https://www.vintageglass.com/

If you're testing for continuity, use the lowest setting.

What's the price? It appears that they have a location about an hour from me.

I take it that you mean that you have a reading of 1 when the probes are touched together. That isn't necessarily a problem. Often you can see the resistance change just by changing the amount of pressure you are using to hold the probes against one another. Also the quality of the leads and build quality of the meter can cause some small resistance. My old Fluke meter reads 0.3 Ohms with the leads held firmly against one another. I just account for that in my readings. Analog multimeters have a Zero Adjust for the needle when measuring resistance. If you don't trust your meter, consider getting a Fluke 116 or 117. The Fluke 115 is cheaper, but it doesn't have the capability of the others. The 116 is nice in that it also comes with a thermocouple for temperature measurements. What are you trying to check on your fuel injection?

Okay, so who sells the shirt? I'm on it.