SteveJ

By "shell" did it still have a factory wiring harness? What was the source for the relay mod swap? Do your wipers come on with the wiper switch? Symptoms that manifested from removing and re-installing the turn signal switch could indicate grounding issues. In general it sounds as though you may have multiple wiring issues. The nice thing is that the factory service manual has breakouts for individual circuits in the BE section that aid in diagnosing issues. You can go to the Downloads in Resources to download a copy of the FSM.

So it is an electrical issue. Supply some more history. How long have you owned the car? How often do you drive it? Has the car even been flooded? Did you (or someone else) do any work on the car between the time the headlights worked properly and they didn't? Can you take the cover off of the steering column and provide some decent quality photos of the wiring harness coming up to the switches?

Will the headlights turn on with the ignition in OFF? If so, it's a mechanical issue with the switch.

I removed the fuel lines when I dropped the tank to remove the bumper mounts, but of course, they were old, brittle and ready to be replaced.

https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6644319 sold by @nix240z

So I believe the TPS does not rotate in the proper direction for the Z. I had my suspicions, and the data confirmed it. I was trying to figure out whether to order a clockwise or counterclockwise TPS, and I finally noticed the tiny letters on my current TPS: CW. I have a CCW TPS on order now.

Okay, so new plugs and ignition module...Not much changed. Got home - plugs looked perfect. So when all else fails, plug in the computer. (I'm liking that aspect of this swap.) Once I got the USB configured properly (and remembering how to configure things in Windows 7), I tried to start the car...Nothing. Oh yeah, reconnect the plug wires. Start the car and watch the data come in...Oops, configured for the wrong ECU. Set the program for the right ECU and watch the data. Coolant temperature seems spot-on. O2? I'm not sure, yet. TPS...Hmm, it seems way too high. Yep, there's the code. So, I'm going to check my TPS settings against the Patton Machine website and test some more.

I have a spare ignition module that I can swap in.

I re-routed the fuel rail today, so it is protected by the heat shield. I took it for a test drive this evening. It behaves better, but there are times that it feels like it it not firing the injectors (enough). It will feel dead (unresponsive to throttle input), but it would kick back to life. I plan on trying to datalog some driving tomorrow to see if that will reveal more information on what is going on. I pulled the plugs. They look a little dark to me, but I am thinking about installing new plugs before testing tomorrow. 6-5 4-3 2-1

You can run both an electrical and mechanical fuel pump. The electrical pump should have a way to shut off if the engine is not running, such as an oil pressure signal or signal from the alternator. Many 73 240Zs received a retro-fit from Nissan via the dealer network to add an electric fuel pump. The 260Z came from the factory with both mechanical and electric fuel pumps.

As @Zed Headsaid, you need to place it in the short run between the fuel pump and fuel rail. The challenge is that the gauge should be vertical for best response. You'll need a tee adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Pressure-T-Fitting-Adapter-2002-2014/dp/B072M33C5F. It is for 5/16 fuel line with a 1/8 NPT fitting for the gauge. Make sure the gauge and tee adapter have the same size fittings. Some gauges are 1/4 NPT. You'll want no more than 15 PSI on the gauge, otherwise you lose too much resolution. If you think your fuel pressure is too low, look for the simple things: clogged fuel filter, old & brittle fuel hose, and a fuel pump with a worn/torn diaphragm.

Spotted on Facebook: Here's the ultimate Christmas gift for the wrench-turning Z Car lover - https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket-set/duralast-10-pcs-multiple-drive-metric-socket-set/582151_0_0 The best part is you can give this to the same person year-after-year.

This post has me thinking. (And that's a dangerous thing.) I noticed that in my fuel injection conversion, the car runs fine at first, and it acts up after it gets warm. I currently have the system dead-headed. I'll try insulating it first, and then if it still acts up, I'll add a return to the fuel rail. Thanks for the inspiration, @siteunseen.

So it's not the fuel pressure. I finally set up the fuel pressure gauge (electric - not hanging out from under the hood) and did a test run. The fuel pressure read 15 PSI on the gauge. After just over 5 miles, it started doing the usual routine of acting like it's not getting enough fuel. However, the fuel pressure stayed solid at 15 PSI. I bumped up the fuel pressure to 18 PSI and tested again. Not much changed, but I started playing with the choke lever, and that did relieve the symptoms to a small extent. I have the driver for the USB cable, so the next test will be with data logging.

It's not too difficult to replace the TIU with an HEI. Search around this site.

You went all out to save weight. Colin Chapman would be proud.

The puddle of fluid could be inside the brake booster or soaking the firewall insulation.

High HC tends to mean incomplete combustion. (Look at timing and valve adjustment.) High CO tends to mean rich. (Among other possible problems, it could be the cold start valve supplying too much fuel.) Make sure you have a good distributor cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires. Do a valve adjustment. Check the timing. Change the oil before testing. Download the FSM (link below) and look at the EF and EC sections. Check the function of the water temperature switch If the car was originally a California model, it had a cat. A tell-tale sign is a Floor Temperature warning light on the center console. Since you aren't being tested for NOx, don't worry about the EGR. Search a lot around on this site. There are a lot of threads on fuel injection that might help you.

As @Zed Head said, they have a bad habit of corroding. I'm glad to hear it runs again.

I suggest that you add the year of your car.

No, John thought it was humorous.

If you look closely at the guy in the foreground, you can see the clip pulling the back of his jacket. It's a lot easier to see in the original picture. Scans of magazine photos tend to lose a lot of detail.

Should the Chinese characters be in a different color for legitimate Canadian currency?

@nix240z - Is this something you might be making in the future?

Costco has the Quickjack 5000 on sale. https://www.costco.com/.product.100460313.html It's a little cheaper than Home Depot right now. https://www.homedepot.com/p/QuickJack-BL-5000SLX-5-000-lbs-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift-BL-5000SLX-AC-110v/307393222 The Costco price runs until Sept 23.