SteveJ

Dan Parkinson's 240Z (the former BRE 46) and 280Z

If you are really interested in doing AC current measurements, use a loop tester. Chances are the inexpensive type like what I linked will work fine. Just remember to isolate the wires and only put the current loop around 1 wire, otherwise the fields will cancel out. The 117 offers non-contact detection. The low impedance features are nice but not must-have. If I was getting a new Fluke, I would be happy with either one.

What? Did you lose my phone number? Fluke meters tend to be very solid meters that hold up a long time. Mine is close to 20 years old, and it doesn't miss a beat. Of course, you could get a Simpson meter, and your grandsons could be fighting over who gets it. My brother grabbed my dad's Simpson when my dad passed away. That meter is probably about 60 years old and just periodically needs batteries. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R6MWL0/ What do you want to measure? AC Voltage DC Voltage AC Current DC Current Resistance Temperature (via a thermocouple) Capacitance (nice if you need to test the start capacitor on an AC unit for your house) Inductance (Are you curious about whether or not that coil is good?) RPM (nice for tuning and setting idle speed) The catch is that you can't get all of these features in one meters. The Fluke 115 and 117 are good choices if you don't want temperature measurement. The 116 is the one to get if you want temperature measurement more than current. (Frankly, an inexpensive loop meter for current isn't a bad idea. It can be tricky to use leads to measure current and easy to blow the fuse in the meter if you don't do it right. https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS2108A-Current-Multimeter-Frequency/dp/B00KXC8GEW) For RPM, I bought this cheap meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K

That's one hell of a carry-on they allowed you for the trip home.

I think you'll find that there's more than enough interest. Heck, if you wanted to make them, @zcardepot.com would probably sell them.

I had copied the specific post where Kats listed the new auction, but something went awry when pasting.

Yes, @kats posted about this car, but he didn't include the link you did.

The ZCCA is trying to increase the block of rooms. This is going to be a busy convention.

Repair plans have been formulated with the goal of being back on the track by the Mitty

It's more of a rebirth than a replica. Randy worked extensively with the BRE team members and photos to capture every detail possible. He bought all of the existing parts still in existence from Dan Parkinson and installed them in the car (except for the engine and transmission which remain on display). While the original body was wrecked in the late 70s, John Morton thought enough of Randy's efforts to give Randy the original car's VIN plate.

I could do it in AutoCAD, but I just haven't decided I needed a color version.

Sad news. The BRE 46 got caught up in an accident at the HSR race in Daytona. Fortunately, John Morton walked away. I haven't seen any photos from the aftermath, but I did hear the car ended up on its roof. Randy said the car is very messed up.

I have an original spare, but it's not from either of my cars.

Oh, you just wanted us to do the legwork for you.

Actually, the OP hasn't returned to this site since a couple of hours after the initial post. I hope he is finding what he's looking for.

From page 62 of section EFEC:

He would need the 240Z distributor mount.

Don't be silly. You don't test seat belts that way. You attach heavy chains to the rear bumper with some slack. Then you accelerate quickly. Once the slack has been removed, the car comes to a sudden stop, and the driver and passenger test the seat belt integrity. At least that's how my mechanic checked mine.

male bovine fecal matter

What are you planning on using to trigger the spark? You may want to create an account at hybridz.org and search there. @madkaw has been running them. He might be able to give you insight.

Man, some people like to brag...

Not only that, but the wife made the sandwich for me.

And you can use your member number here for a discount. Your member number is 33548. Send a PM to @James@TheZStore for more info.

That's the one and only fusible link in a 240Z. I forgot that you can get the fusible link here, too: https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4332

@zspert Are you still just taking checks, or have you moved up to Paypal? I think @kenward1000 will probably be contacting you soon about a fusible link.