SteveJ

But did you find my spring?

So when I got home this evening, the first thing I did after exchanging pleasantries with SWMBO was open up my Amazon boxes. I found the spray can of Kroil, and went out to the garage to spray the plug on the O2 sensor bung. I changed into car working clothes (Very redneck chic, I might add.) and went back into the garage. I sprayed the plug again, and then I pulled the car out of the garage (under its own power) and got it up on ramps. I looked at the access to the plug on the O2 sensor bung. It was too tight for the impact gun. The breaker bar would have to work. I got the socket on the plug, but I realized that I just couldn't get the right leverage. So what's the solution? Of course, it's a 2.5 lb hammer. I forcefully tapped on the breaker bar, and I finally saw it turn! I re-positioned the breaker bar and got another 1/8th of a turn or so. After a couple of more small movements, I decided that I didn't want to be using the breaker bar until midnight. I paused and sprayed some more Kroil on the plug. Then I fetched the long handle ratchet and put it to work...only it has a shorter handle, so I lacked leverage. So what's the solution? Of course, it's a 2.5 lb hammer. I tapped the handle of the ratchet, and it started moving the plug. I kept getting the ratchet to turn. Either the head of the plug was going to break off, or the plug was coming out. I did a quick check to verify that the plug was coming out, and soon it was done. I coated the threads of the O2 sensor with anti-sieze and installed it. I connected the O2 sensor and got the car running. It runs a LOT better with the O2 sensor installed. I reattached the choke cables since I found I still need them when the car is cold. I have the throttle bodies adjusted, though the idle is high. On the other hand, the idle was high with the carburetors, too. Now I need to button things up and pick up a $4!+load of tools scattered about in my garage. Then I can do a test drive.

Glad to help. By the way, if you find the spring from my hazard switch, let me know.

I last did this about 16 or 17 years ago... I unplugged the switch from the dash harness. Then if memory serves, I had to push and twist to remove the knob. I took a pair of long nose pliers that had a very fine point on the ends of the jaws and used those to unscrew the retaining ring. Then you have to figure out where the hell the spring went that supplied tension to hold the knob onto the end of the shaft. When reinstalling, you have to curse like hell trying to get the optical fiber back in place to light the knob.

It wouldn't be the first time that box was dumped, and it holds my solderless lugs, too. Instant game of 52 card pick up.

Hmm, I wonder if I'll have enough time... I'm not sure whether or not I used anti-seize on the plug in the O2 sensor bung. It will take a while to get it out. Just in case, new bungs have been ordered.

It's alive. IT'S ALIVE!

Unless it's a diecast or plastic model, I don't think a Z is going to fit on top of that bench.

Well, I found a couple of crossed wires, and it will run the fuel pump like it should. Now I have to get the TPS adjusted (in part by using the right cover) and figure out how to break loose the plug on the O2 sensor bung. There's an outside chance I will have it done in time.

I'm planning on being there...provided I can sort out the fuel injection by then...

I might know a thing or two about the electrical system if you need help sometime...

License plate lamp housing. All of the ones I have found used have been warped all to heck.

@MikeI would agree that's a spammer in waiting.

The strange thing is that the same username is over at Zcar.com with similar types of posts: https://www.zcar.com/search.php?searchid=50972

Why would you put the fusible link between the circuit and ground? Now go back and check post #2. Go to Blue's collection of tech tips for the wiring diagram or search here for a color copy of the wiring diagram.

Keep this in mind. The stock lighting circuit has 1 positive and 2 paths to ground. Most cars have 2 positives and 1 ground. The "D" in LED is for diode. It will only allow current to flow one way. Unless the LED headlight is specially wired for the 1 positive and two paths to ground, it will not work properly. Even more than with the LEDs, the halogen bulbs need full battery voltage to achieve designed brightness.

I didn't post about Day 4 since I didn't take any new photos. Today was Day 5 - The TPS Report. Mounting the TPS bracket was a challenge. First, there are two vacuum ports on the N36 intake that the bracket does not account for. Next, it didn't matter because there is a lip on the intake where the carburetor mounts that prevents the TPS mounting bracket from aligning with the throttle linkage. Oh well, I expected to have to make some modifications. It was a shame to have to cut into that nice bracket. However, everything lines up now.

That's supply & demand for you.

So, if you're concerned about grounds, check for continuity from wire 74 to ground. You'll find this wire at the EFI relay. It should be on one of the middle pins on the 6 wire connector. The coil on the EFI relay is energized off the white/black wire from the ignition relay (make sure the ignition relay is good). For testing, you could put jumpers on the engine harness at the EFI relay as I have shown in red. For safety, keep the fusible link unplugged until you are ready to test. As for the tachometer, depending upon how you (or the PO) wired in the HEI to replace the TIU, you may have removed the trigger signal for the tach.

Just keep in mind that the picture @siteunseen posted is for a later car where the front brake circuit is closer to the booster. Otherwise, the bleed screws are shown correctly. What a bargain! https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/brake-master-cylinder-oem-46010-e4602-datsun-240z-260z-280z-1970-1971/

The hazard switch interrupts the brake light circuit and the turn signal circuit. That is why it has 8 connections.

Good point, sir. I forgot to bring that up. Yes, it is a challenge, but you can get the bulb in the socket wrong. As Egon said in the movie Ghostbusters, "Don't cross the streams."

Okay, the page has been updated with Day 3 activities. I figured out how to do AN fittings today. It's hard to believe that I'm the same person as the idiot who couldn't do it yesterday. I also hit a minor stumbling block in that the fuel pressure gauge has a 1/4" NPT fitting. I couldn't find an AN connector with a fuel pressure gauge port larger than 1/8" NPT (and I already have one of those), so I ended up ordering another fuel pressure gauge that has the same range as the one supplied by Rick but with the 1/8" NPT fitting.

Incorrect. There are also dual filament bulbs in the front for the turn signal/marker lights.

Yes, because you are backfeeding the circuit.